Single rail trailer for behind the family car.

Luugo86 said:
Hurc that is cool as hell man.. I have been wanting to fabricate up something similar for some time. How much did all the steel set you back ?
Thanks man! Not exactly sure to be honest, most of the material was drops of stuff that was laying around. I'm guessing if you bought everything new you'd shoot the works out of $200 in material

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pidjones said:
Make sure you reach out to me when you bring thd bike and trailer down I-75. I'd love to run out to the Rocky Top (Lake City) or Norris exit to meet you and see the beasts! I live ~10 miles ftom either.
Will do man. I'm doubting I will be dragging a bike down at Christmas time this year, but likely will at spring brake in the middle of March.

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Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.

I got a few minutes at lunch break today to draw up a few gussets and cut them on the CNC plasma. They are 11 gauge steel and seem to stiffen it up and get rid of the flex pretty well.
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Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.

I finished up the fab work on the axle. I cut the tubing at a 45 and capped them to clean things up a bit, and I like to cap tubing on most things that will be used outside to keep both water and wasps nests out.

Next I made up a few fender mounting brackets out of 11 gauge and 1" square tubing. The fender mounts also should add a bit of strength to the axle mounting plates.
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JustinLonghorn said:
When is this thing getting its first test run?
test run hopefully in the next month or so, and a possible trip to Georgia for spring break.

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Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.

Thanks fellas!

I made up my tie down bar for the front, and kept with my theme of capping the ends of the tubing. That was the last "big" thing as far as fabrication goes, less the fold up ramp on the back.

I decided to go ahead and weigh the individual parts to see where I'm at so far.

Main frame 116lbs.
Axle frame with fender mounts and fenders 42lbs.
torsion stubs (pair) 28lbs.
Hitch Coupler 4lbs.
Wheel/Tire 18lbs each (x3 to include spare)

Grand total as it sits is 244lbs.

The only weight it should gain from now to completion is paint, wiring, lights, light brackets, license plate bracket and the aluminum ramp out back, plus whatever the weight in weld wire to finish it out.

Im thinking educated guess is that itll be right around 260 complete and empty. That plus a 300 lb tw300 will take up 560 lbs of the 1000 lb towing capacity, so just over half. With the dr650, itll be at 620 ish lbs, which still isn't to bad.
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I know that mofo is perfectly square, but that pic makes the tongue all whacky like it's bent. Crazy parallax.
 
irk miller said:
I know that mofo is perfectly square, but that pic makes the tongue all whacky like it's bent. Crazy parallax.
I think part of it is that your actually seeing a slightly off kilter shot of the gusset tube that's at a 45deg angle
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looks slightly less goofy with the fenders on
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Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.

I got the final mockup done before the complete tear down to finish welding and paint. I wanted to get the level ride height set so that I could finalize the ramp length. Getting ready for a couple weeks out of town for the holidays, so this will likely be the last progress for a couple weeks.
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I feel like you wouldn't leave that vertical square tubing open at the end like that, unless you have a very specific intention...

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irk miller said:
I feel like you wouldn't leave that vertical square tubing open at the end like that, unless you have a very specific intention...

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haha its not going to be left open, but I did thing it would be a handy place to mount a 12v winch for broken bike recovery/ picking up old piles that don't run...
 
Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.

As per the usual, things are taking way longer than I thought they would. My spring break deadline has come and gone, but alas I got back to some cutting and grinding this evening. I got the Ramp pretty well squared away, less a couple holes in the hinge tube for retainer clips and a bar that will pin the ramp in the upright position. It is made out of 11 gauge 2x2 angle for the sides and 11gauge 1x1 angle for the slats. Still a few odds and ends to tie up, but still getting closer at least.

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Levi, I don't know why I didn't see the pix of your trailer nearly complete back in December, but I was just looking this morning and I wanted to throw out a couple comments for what they are worth. First off, my compliments, it's really impressive work. I had a trailer hitch on my first Pacific Coast that I never got to use, but I could really envision pulling some kind of dirt bike or dual sport behind a larger long haul bike; that would certainly get you the looks and comments out on the highway!

It may be a little late, but I think you may want to do a slight re-think on the tie-down crossbar at the front. Two things: First, I think you'll find it a bit more effective if you move it forward just a bit, perhaps up to directly under that 2x2 upright. Right now it looks like it would be more or less directly under the hauled bike's axle and by moving it forward a bit you'll still be able to pull down on the forks but also pull the front wheel securely forward into your front chock for a more secure tie-down. Second, and I speak from experience, you may want to explore making some way to hinge the ends of the bar either forward toward the hitch, or angled up, or back toward the rear when not in use. Your shins will thank you. Those things permanently hanging out there like that are going to be shin/ankle magnets. It's like that hitch sticking out the back of a pick-up... no matter how long it's been there and no matter how well-aware you are that it's there it's going to get your attention in the worst way at the worst possible time.
 
I don't disagree with Corey, but being I'm already $2 in the hole, I won't make any bets on his evaluation of that crossbar.
 
On my HF hauler, I cross front and rear straps to hold from going either way. Remember, you (at least should) have more braking power than accelerating, so the bike going forward on a panic stop is a bit more likely, even with the chock. I also have a straight strap down from the triple. This is to secure a 600 lb. GL1000, and so far has done very well. Since I built it on a 40x48 HF frame, I didn't need arms to tie to for side-to side support. Also added side walk-boards and ramps because I'd seen too many YouTube videos of people dropping bikes loading. Gave me the added benefit that I can put the kick stand down for support on the left board, and load or unload by myself.
 
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