The SkyTeam 'Ace' Resource

Skyteam chain lifespan - Replacement

Had a couple of wet runs over the last couple of weeks and that killed the chain. It was the original which is not an O ring. As previously mentioned it had done just on 10,000kms. I was surprised to see the rusty dry pins when removed, even though it was well greased. A good rule of thumb for replacement is that if you can see daylight when pulling off sprocket, it's time to change. Sprockets are still in good nick.
I was able to again turn a 10 minute job into half an hour. 15 minutes of that was attempting to clean my hands afterwards! Note to self - Wear disposable gloves next time!
 

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It's BOTM time!

Sneikz has voted, I've voted; give it a try (it's painless).

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=74394.0;topicseen

Crazy
 
Great news from Michael at Skyteam Canberra & NSW!

Check it out on FB: https://www.facebook.com/skyteamcanberra/timeline
 

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More goodies from Michael at Skyteam Canberra & NSW!

Both are 330mm in length.

From Mad Monk in Thailand at $115.00 the pair + postage.
and Kitaco from Japan, at $215.00 the pair + postage.

More info at: https://www.facebook.com/skyteamcanberra/timeline
 

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Finally putting my Skyteam Ace 125 => 150 back together. Have been too busy riding my big bike, so the Ace has sat for months with piston rod waiting for the new 150cc piston and cylinder.

I didn't take photos when I disassembled, damn it. Not overly sure that I have got the dowels right. Pictures in CG manual and on the web for the Ace don't agree and the sketch I made is different again. The sketch shows two dowels at base of cylinder, both on the push rod side. And two dowels between cylinder and head diagonally opposed, with front one on the push rod side.

How many dowels should I have below the cylinder? In what position? And should one of them have an O Ring?

How many dowels between cylinder and head and in what position?

And finally if I haven't got it right what risks do I run??

Cheers
Richard
 

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2b said:
Finally putting my Skyteam Ace 125 => 150 back together. Have been too busy riding my big bike, so the Ace has sat for months with piston rod waiting for the new 150cc piston and cylinder.

I didn't take photos when I disassembled, damn it. Not overly sure that I have got the dowels right. Pictures in CG manual and on the web for the Ace don't agree and the sketch I made is different again. The sketch shows two dowels at base of cylinder, both on the push rod side. And two dowels between cylinder and head diagonally opposed, with front one on the push rod side.

How many dowels should I have below the cylinder? In what position? And should one of them have an O Ring?

How many dowels between cylinder and head and in what position?

And finally if I haven't got it right what risks do I run??

Cheers
Richard

Hey Richard. I have done the 150cc conversion and I took loads of photos! Can send you what you need if you pm your email.

Alex
 
alex-i-oh said:
Hey Richard. I have done the 150cc conversion and I took loads of photos! Can send you what you need if you pm your email.

Alex
Thanks Alex,

I am all done. It is running great.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Ah no worries, well done for getting it all sorted. How's she running? What carb/ jetting are you using if you don't mind me asking? And what did you set your valve clearances at?

Al
 
When I first got the bike I got rid of the EGR stuff, changed to OO Racing header and emgo reverse cone muffler with two stroke packing. At that point I rejetted the standard carb. Jets 100 Keihin, 48 OO Racing

For this 150 upgrade, I re-used the 125cc head as I had heard that is a better way to go. So effectively I just swapped out the barrel, piston, rings and gudgeon pin.

Valve clearances as stated in the manual .05mm. I do that a bit tight on intake and a bit loose on exhaust.

I will do the CDI and carb (and probably pod filter) later. Will get whatever Skyteam Canberra reckon is the latest and greatest when I get around to that.

If you want to know about what others have done, take a look on here...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1USvziYIyzfyxfZA1YYpQf9eP4djb0GLWbvWcmME88Gk/edit#gid=0

Cheers
Richard
 
I have been wondering through this thread, i was sure i saw someone who had a broken chain guard tab, and i was just wondering what the fix ended up looking like.
 
I made a 25mm strap , it follows the contour inside of the chainguard and is shaped at the bottom to match the original .
I have secured it with 2 self drilling screws at the top . I plan to revisit it and add an identical piece on the outside .
This will enable a clamping effect on the chain guard and double up on thickness at the mounting bolt .
 

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Hi Stroker, thought I'd just say hello from chilly UK.
Haven't been on ddt site for a while, but don't worry as I still have my Ace. It's wrapped up for the winter now so it's hibernating.
Happy New year to you.
 
Hey guys been rolling through posts and since my little beastie is out of play i've decided while i get her back up and running might as well do some mods, and i wanted to know if there were plans anywhere for moving the battery to underneath the little bum bump at the rear, cause i know i'll have to built an battery box or tray to hold it which is fine, but if you guys could let me know that would be grand.
 
beezlebub: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60946.0


Does anyone who owns an ACE own a CT110 or similar? Do their petrol tank caps fit the skyteam? I would really appreciate an answer as i tried different rubber on the OEM one and its just garbage. *** nopt looks like it might be too small***
 
Cheer eraser, and have been wondering about the cap myself so looking forward to the answers so i can get rid of the leaks.
 
Beelzebub said:
Hey guys been rolling through posts and since my little beastie is out of play i've decided while i get her back up and running might as well do some mods, and i wanted to know if there were plans anywhere for moving the battery to underneath the little bum bump at the rear, cause i know i'll have to built an battery box or tray to hold it which is fine, but if you guys could let me know that would be grand
.
Hope this helps
Evening, if you have a look through my posts you'll find pictures of how to move battery under the seat hump and still use your original battery carrier. Tad

PS, I have fitted a fuel cap off my CM200 Honda and it's done the trick.
 
I know its a long shot, Does anyone have an unused ooracing 72cc conversion kit for the 50cc Ace?

Like this;
https://www.ooracing.com/tuning-kit-big-bore-50cc-to-70cc-suitable-for-ace-50cc-bikes.html

Or if in Aus, maybe someone upgraded from 70 to 150 and has a spare converted motor?


I seem to find plenty of upgraded heads and kits for the Gy6 engine, but not for this vertical one.
 
eraser said:
I know its a long shot, Does anyone have an unused ooracing 72cc conversion kit for the 50cc Ace?

Like this;
https://www.ooracing.com/tuning-kit-big-bore-50cc-to-70cc-suitable-for-ace-50cc-bikes.html

Or if in Aus, maybe someone upgraded from 70 to 150 and has a spare converted motor?


I seem to find plenty of upgraded heads and kits for the Gy6 engine, but not for this vertical one.

I'd seriously look to a total engine swap. You can pick up a Honda (CB) 125 or 250 for a few hundred dollars from the local motorcycle wreckers and drop in with only minor mods (front engine mount).
Show&Go have a few on the books.
www.showandgo.com.au/wreck/wreck_bf.html

Bang for buck, this is a much better solution IMHO.
 
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