spray bombs

dcmspikes

Over 1,000 Posts
reading through all of these builds has got me wondering.

what is the strongest spray paint?

i think we all agree that powdercoating is the strongest paint finish. for those that dont want the cost or finality of powdercoat is there are tough spray bomb option? with out regard to cost. anything out of a can. high temp baked on enamel? hammerite? multiple clear coats? Dupli-color? Krylon? Rust-o-leum? . . . .
 
Probably not much help, but I did a set of car rims in Duplicolor, 3 coats, plus 3 coats of their clear and it held up really well for the year I owned the rims. I will be using Dup for most of the paiting on my bike...powdercoat is too costly and i want to be able to just sand and repaint when I need a change
 
hello,
i agree, i used dup on my 175, gloss black on all bike prts, with no clear. and used the
high temp gloss white and black on my eng. it is turning out great. and only cost me
about 30$ max.. i also did this on my mustang the whole motor, last year and is still
good.
not sure if i am going to clear it. should hold up either way.
i did about 4 to 5 coats on bike prts and frame, and 2 on motor. high temp you need to spray
every 10 mins for a hr, and then recoat in 7 days or after. looks good when done..you don't
have to clear the eng. should, maybe clear the bike.
any way i went this rout, cheap and easy, looks good when done.
my two cents.
later. guys
 
JRK Swears by appliance epoxy and he has his own powder coat setup. I am not sure of the brand he uses. I have had good luck with Duplicolor products, but make sure anywhere you might get fuel you go with an enamel not lacquar. Their auto finishes are mostly lacquars, if you use one, make sure you clear with their enamel clear topcoat, let it "cure" for the 7 days before getting near fuel and it works ok. I did my tank in their Toyota Cardinal red and then filled it, got fuel on it and the finish went all cloudy. Found out the hard way you need an enamel over it to keep fuel from ruining it. Once i fixed the damage and coated with enamel a small fuel spill wiped off quick didn't hurt the finish.

Cheers.
 
I'm using Duplicolor on the worky buddy's CB450 that we're currently building.  I'm guessing it'll hold up OK, although I really wish I had access to an oven to bake it when finished.  Maritime Biker, thanks for the 7-day wait advice.  Wasn't sure how long to have it sit.

Not that we're in a rush - I've warned Justin that, to do it right, he's not going to be on the bike before Memorial Day.
 
I used both Tremclad and Duplicolor and both have their good and bad points. I find Tremclad much more durable than Duplicor. I painted my car rims two years ago and they are just like the day I did them, not a scratch or chip anywhere. Problem I have with Tremclad is the slow dry and cure time. I find Duplicolor very easy and quick to work with though. It sprays nice and dries quick. Both sand and polish well, but I have to say that Duplicolor polishes much better and easier than Tremclad.

I just painted my engine with Duplicolor and yet to start up the engine so the paint is not heat cured yet, but I've noticed that it chips extremely easy. I'm hoping the heat will help the paint become more durable. Anyone with experience with this?
 
My experience in painting is bicycles, not motorcycles - I restore vintage road bikes when I'm not wrenching motorcycles (and have to admit I enjoy the former a bit more). While I've done a number of bicycle frames with the results getting better and better, I don't have access to an oven big enough to handle a fuel tank or bicycle frame. On small parts, however, I've gotten around this by using the kerosene heater that heats my workshop in the winter. Leaving freshly painted, but dried, parts on the safety grillwork of the heater does wonders in hardening the paint job. The alternative has always been hanging a finished frame in the attic (during summer, preferably) for about six months to let the paint cure. Unfortunately, I'm not that patient.

Baking paint is almost a necessity for a durable finish, although I've never been told for how long and at what temperature - then again, not having the facilities, I've never actively enquired.

Warning! Do not try using the kitchen stove for this - unless you actually LIKE having your wife/girlfriend permanently pissed, and the stove useless for regular food uses. I've been told the baking does wonders with smells that never go away.
 
as stated i do powder for a living and use Epoxy appliance paint by rustoleum. just amazed at the strenght of this paint
thermaclad is also a great one!
 
I've used both Duplicolor and Plasticote engine enamels. I found a toaster oven in the trash and rewired it, now it's my paint curing oven for small parts. Baking the paint makes it far more durable.
 
JRK5892 said:
as stated i do powder for a living and use Epoxy appliance paint by rustoleum. just amazed at the strenght of this paint
thermaclad is also a great one!
do you know if it will stand up to fuel without clear coating as long as you let it cure for a few days?

as for curing stuff in your oven unless you don't eat anything that comes out of it. meaning you bought an oven just to bake paint. I would not when curing solvents are released during the curing process the dryer the paint the more durable. that stuff lingers and hell there are enough chemicals in my diet I don't need to be adding voc's
 
Mortikan said:
do you know if it will stand up to fuel without clear coating as long as you let it cure for a few days?

as for curing stuff in your oven unless you don't eat anything that comes out of it. meaning you bought an oven just to bake paint. I would not when curing solvents are released during the curing process the dryer the paint the more durable. that stuff lingers and hell there are enough chemicals in my diet I don't need to be adding voc's

Yes it will. Not a prolonged soaking granted, but as long as you give a good 7 day cure (dries overnight) this stuff is tough as nails. I use the black on all of my bits and pieces. The only gripe I have is the lack of colors.
 
goodfornothing said:
What's the proper procedure of baking a piece in the oven?
My can of VHT header paint said..
1/2 hour at 200 then cool
1/2 hour at 400 then cool
and lastly 1/2 hour at 600 then cool.
The parts had weeks to dry after painting before I baked them and after each bake cycle the paint was gooey... so when you remove it handle it carefully.
Now I have never tried it on motorcycle parts but... Hobby-Shops sell "Hot Fuel proof paints". These are in a rainbow of colors and will stand up to 40% nitro fuels without discoloring. I have used several brands on my R/C boats...

 
hmmm probably shouldve rephrased my question

if i do not have an extra oven to put the parts in.....would a heat gun suffice enough or would i just be wasting my time

-Al
 
Somebody had brought this up before..... but I think they were concerned about larger parts like the frame. Anybody remember the thread?

For smaller parts I agree with DrJ - you can find a toaster oven at flea markets and such. An old stove (NOT what's in your kitchen) would be great in the garage. And if it's just too big for that, you can find a local powdercoating shop and pay them to throw it in there oven.

I read a LLLLLOOOONNNNNGGGGG time ago about people getting sun tan's in the middle of winter using a crap load of aluminum foil to make a "tub" and placing a black towel or something in the center of it to absorb sunlight. Might be worth looking into on a hot summer day, ya know?
 
Regarding backing rattle-can paint jobs. I stumbled across an answer that handles large parts, up to and including frames, without additional expense. It does have a time disadvantage, however.

Last spring I painted a mid-60's Raleigh bicycle frame for a retro custom bike (based on a '48 BSA bicycle I saw at a vintage show), and while the paint job came out beautifully, it had the usual problem: Easy chipping. Disgusted, I took the frame up to the attic, hung it up in a far corner, and proceeded to forget about it for the rest of the summer.

That fall, I decided to give it another look. And discovered I had a beautifully hardened paint job. Finished the bike (it was going to be my work bike for this year, but I got laid off at the Honda shop and doubt that I'm getting called back) and the only chips on the paint are the ones from last year, pre-attic.

I've learned that baking paint doesn't mean 325 or 450 degrees F. It's something more like 150-190 degrees, or a slightly lower temperature for a longer period of time. Obviously, it's got a downside. Time. You tear down the bike, sandblast and paint the frame during the winter of 2009/early spring 2010, and you start rebuilding the bike fall/winter of 2010 for the 2011 spring riding season. For someone like me, with a dozen bicycles already hanging on the wall to choose from, that's no big deal. For someone who's got one motorcycle (in pieces, no less) that's a whole 'nother matter.

Obviously, I'm on a crash schedule of working on a few bicycle frames right now so I have ready to build this winter. Happily, none of my motorcycles need tear down and paint.

Oh yeah, that CB450 I was caffing out with my former (he got laid-off, too) co-worker at the motorcycle shop. Absolute frustration. The bike came out beautifully. The kid (sorry, but he's 24, I'm just shy of 60) rode it for two weeks and sold it. He was disappointed that it's wouldn't run with the SV650's, etc., or do the ton. Hell, a brand new CB450 back in 1967 had a top speed of just under the ton!

(Sound of my beating my head against the wall.) Unfortunately, I neither had the spare cash or garage space to buy the bike from him within the time frame he wanted to sell it (like, immediately, so as to have a down payment on a Ducati).
 
I've just started experimenting with Polane T ( get it at Sherwin Williams, we use it at work on some of our machinery ) I painted my buddies fork lowers and triple clamps with it.
http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/webPDF.jsp?SITEID=STORECAT&prodno=035777262481&doctype=PDS&lang=E
It's very durable and chemical resistant. The downsides are it's expense, you have to wear a respirator, and at best it's a satin finish.
 
Back
Top Bottom