OJ's CB360 and a Story of Not Enough Time

May have found a battery to try. 3.5 long, 2.75 wide and 4 tall. Or if I get the starter working, I'll get a scooter battery which is still quite a bit smaller than the stock size beast.
 
FYI... The stock beast is big for a reason. The early Honda twins were parasitic at lower RPMs. They don't generate enough current to run the bike until they get to around 3000 or 4000 RPM.

If you spend a lot of time idling (e.g. riding in the city), you bike is running off the battery and not the alternator.

Going with a small battery may be a detriment.
 
I am aware of the issue with idle charging. These batteries are cheap so if 4.5 Ah won't work, I can plug in an 8 Ah and see what happens.
 
Got an 8 Ah battery as well and now I'm looking for a regulator that would not burn the battery.

Also still shopping around for GS850 pistons, and have found few used ones for an OK price and few new ones for quite a bit more. The used pistons have some wear marks on the piston skirt, so I may want to go for the new ones. I'm assuming my stock CB360 pistons have probably a fair bit of wear, so maybe it's not that serious.

Of course I'll be out of town next two weekends, so no wrenching, and then I need to paint the house and renovate the main floor powder room. That's all nice, but I have this thing called a job that I need to go 5 days a week...
 
Wear on the skirts is one of those things that happens to pistons within the first few miles of installation. ALL used pistons will have wear patterns there. It in no way indicates that the piston is "bad".
 
Used pistons are not a problem as you bore cylinder to the piston size so it compensates for wear and you end up with 'stock' clearance (although I recommend 0.0015"~0.0017" with 378 instead of Honda 0.0012")
 
Pulled the trigger on the pistons, so this one will definitely become a 378 cc. I would still like to find another jugs so I would have a fall back plan of going back to stock. Not going to tear into this before snow flies, so even up here it should be another 3 months.

Took her out for a quick boot tonight and for some reason the right cylinder is acting up and not firing at idle before warmed up and still seems bit weak.

To further slow things down, I ate it hard on my MTB last saturday. On an easy bit of trail, where there should be no reason to crash, jack knifed my front wheel, and fell on the handlebar that was solidly propped against the bedrock. End of the handlebar and brake lever hit me in the lower abdomen and sent me head first into the granite. Let me tell you that it hurt like a mother. This was the first time during my adult life, that I screamed in pain. Luckily, no internal bleeding, but I have a some sort of a hernia/torn ab muscle so no lifting or wrenching for a while.
 
Lucky you didn't get anything more serious, pissing blood at all?
Look on eBay for a set of rusty cylinders then haggle the price, you don't need or want good ones as your boring 2mm oversize
 
No blood, but bruising is something I've never seen before.

But back to topic. Keeping an eye on ebay for a cylinder. People are asking as low as $20 for a cylinder block, but shipping to Canada is >$50. I'm still looking for a parts bike locally and hopefully some barn find will show up.

Should have the brake hose today to get rid of rubber hoses.
 
Hey great build! You've got me looking at my 360 now. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
 
OK, my latest purchase to prepare for engine rebuild. Haven't done dick all on the bike recently, except go through the basic adjustments as she started running bit rough. Faster riding is still good though. Next step in my build is to finish wiring and insulate my garage so I can actually do my winter project.

Another question. The rings look good on the GS850 pistons, so could I use these rings or should I just get new ones?
 

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I use the 'old' rings.
Check the 'free end gap' (measure gap without fitting rings to cylinder)
It should be around 8~ 9mm for two top rings, there isn't spec for oil rings
 
Some progress, but on the make it stop and make it safe department.

Mounted the new ebay find master cylinder, that looks out of place on the bike, but either that and/or the stainless steel hose have made the bike stop ten times better than before. Had to drill the caliper because the banjo bolt was bottoming out on the cone in the brake line fitting. Then I just used a way too expensive bottom tap to make a thread or two. While I was at it, I changed the fork seals and rinsed the fork. Fork is really clean actually and works much better with 15w fork oil. Difficulty level maybe 5 and took few hours as I have not done this before and had to clean 39 years worth of built up dirt on the way.

I might try to find a better looking and/or nicer finished master cylinder.

Other than that, I have been riding and trying to get the frequent shoulder checks become a routine as I have my road test next week. Another project is to make my garage winter worthy so I can actually work on the bike this coming winter.

Oh yeah, the piston rings have 8-9 mm gaps. I'm soaking them in sea foam to try to clean them a bit.

Some photos
 

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The pipes are OK. Cheapish, loud and shitty chrome. Need to add some packing, but would need to cut the pipe a bit to get the end cap off, and I haven't felt like doing it yet.

I'm actually waiting for snow so I would have months to just work on the bike...I know...it's fucked up.
 
The plans I made in August were quickly scrapped because my wife used the garage to park her vehicle over the winter. I know, crazy isn't it? So I got back on working on the bike once the car was out of the way.

Tore into the engine and everything looks pretty clean with not much wear. Cylinder block is going to machine shop next week and then I'll start putting her back together. Need to do something about the seat as well, but the engine is the first priority. Need new chain and sprockets, so 520 concersion might be in the cards with 17/37 or 17/36.

Question. Should I just ask the machine shop to bore +2 mm over stock CB360 bore or has anybody found that little different would work better? Using GS850 pistons.
 

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Just bore 2mm and hone to 0.0015"~0.0017" clearance. (fifteen to seventeen ten thousandths of inch)
Measure pistons 8~10mm from bottom edge 90 degrees to pin
You may have to mess with gasket thickness, there seems to be some variation in crankcase height which affects deck height.
Get copper gaskets from Lani, he has all the information for CB360 ~378cc conversion. (head gasket with 69.50mm hole ;) )
You'll probably want a 0.063" head gasket and a 0.040" base gasket but it's best to do a 'dry fit' without rings so you can take a few measurements
It's now a pretty common conversion, the difference in power is real amazing, even with stock cam. (isn't worth getting a 'race' cam, spend the money on decent ignition, bike will be good for around 115~120mph)
Kickstarting is also a bit more difficult, the extra capacity and compression is very noticeable ;D
It also looks like the left intake valve spring is on upside down?
Clean the alloy off cam bearing and polish out the head, extra oil clearance will be a good thing
 
Didn't even notice the spring, but it is upside down compared to other springs. I've spent the morning cleaning everything and need to run to get some more abrasive tools and bigger rubbermaid box for my soda blaster.

I'm still struggling with the decision to chop the frame or just stick to a bolt-on mod as the bike is in good shape for her age.
 
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