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The stock air filters are nasty, soaked in oil/gas/younameit. I was looking at getting new filters, but these buggers cost $50 each and shipping up here would be another at least $30. Are the original filters worth the money and are pod filters just asking for headaches with jetting? Having asked this, my stock carbs/air boxes seem to be working quite well, so maybe I answered my own question right there.
Pods would make the bike look nice though with open space under the seat...
You need a few modifications to make bike run with K&N filters. The extra expense is worth the money . but, you also have to relocate battery to use RU1820's
Cheap pods are just a waste of time and money, way less surface area than the originals
I'll get some comparison pics
K...dropped off the cylinder jugs at a shop willing to bore them. Let's say that I do not have contacts for this type of stuff and that helps me part ways with whatever money I manage to smuggle past my personal controller. Expensive holes let me tell you! Anyway, I am committed, so there's no backing up at this point.
But all this burning cash has helped me to decide to find ways of fabricating more than buying shit for next little while.
Yep the days are long gone where just about any motorcycle dealer could bore cylinders for $35.00 a hole
It's probably pretty difficult to find anywhere other than a 'real' machine shop who can do bores to your spec and machine shops get real expensive for set up.
You'll need to tell them they MUST make multiple passes, the liners are not a real tight fit, less than the recommended 0.004", probably closer to 0.002" interference fit
If they try and take too much out in one got there is a real good possibility of liner moving, if it spins in block it's way more work to fix things (L.A. Sleeve prices for custom liners ain't cheap)
Probably need at least 5 passes (20, 20, 20 10, 5, 5 thou per pass)
If they have real good machines it still takes 3~4 passes (may get away with deeper first and final cut but as liner gets thinner there is more chance of it moving)
Got the cylinders back today, so time to start putting her back together. Gaskets shipped today giving me time to clean everything and I need to order some dowels as some of the old ones were destroyed in process. Are all the dowels 12x20 on CB360? Need to order some tomorrow.
Right now, applying rattle can in aluminum color on the crank cases and hoping for paint to stick.
I just got the EBC springs from DCC. Now that I looked into this, these EBC springs may not be the stiffest out there. I hope these will be stiffer than the old ones, but if not, I might get a set of springs from Bore-Tech and also replace the clutch plates.
But here's some rattle can art. Looks not too bad and maybe durability is OK too. Better half is at soccer practice, so I'm taking this opportunity to bake the covers in the oven... ;D
When taking the electric starter off, can I just unplug the solenoid and just run the red wire direct to battery? I am trying to rig something up for the electronics today.
Cylinder jugs with a darker tone. Using the kitchen oven to cure paint was not received too well, so I cured the cylinder jugs using my barbeque. Seems to work. Also, I never realized how awesome the 3M blue exterior masking tape is.
Only things still missing before starting to putton this thing back together are the dowels and copper gaskets. Should have these this week or early next week, conveniently in time for my vacation.
I will be running stock air filters for now with stock length exhaust. I suppose I should have at least 110, 112, 115 and 120 main jets on hand. I have not been able to find 112 jets anywhere though.
Also, later this summer, I will weld my own 2 to 1 exhaust. Any advise on layout or does it matter that much?
I built my own 2:1, it's not optimum for 360 but does work quite well.
I need to shorten the header pipes about 2", should perform much better when I get around to it.
At present I can ride around in too high a gear but have to change down twice to accelerate properly (get rpm around 6,000)
Still a load of fun though ;D 8)
Going to cut underneath crankcase before collector and add sleeves plus spring mounts, will make it much easier to fit or remove
My plan went to crapper pretty quick after family came to visit. But starting this week and weekend, I'll start putting everything together. I still have slight scratches in the center cam bearing. I suppose there's nothing to be done about the cam bearings, except start looking for new cylinder head.
Got the starter plug from crazypj and it looks very clean.
Of course I had stripped threads on cylinder head and decided to take it to a machine shop. Price on that is bit steep as well, but didn't want to buy helicoil for this.
Minor disaster struck just now. I decided to open the centrifugal oil filter to clean it and the cap came out in pieces, or more specifically, the four "paddles" had broken off. Searching eBay right now to find another one Honda part # 15450-286-010. I would like to know when these broke as I haven't had any issues removing this before. Maybe the scratching in the camshaft bearings are due to oiling issues caused by the broken cap.
Could this cap be fixed with crazy glue or JB Weld? The cracks are pretty clean and I think I could glue it back together in original shape.
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