Sr250 Tracker

So it begins. Roxy here is my first motorcycle and my first ever vehicle I plan on delving into beyond oil change so I'm diving in head first. Im going off of a few different people for reference but the overall goal is to lighten the bike and make it as understated and practical as possible. Color aside, Heavily influenced by StevG's Mexico Tracker http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=50779.0 Very new to motorcycles and mechanics so any tips/advice are greatly appreciated.
Fresh off of the Trailer



As she sits in my garage...Er I mean living room



I've got some Renthal Ultra low bars coming in the mail and I'm excited to kick things off, but I'm having some running issues as it is. The bike starts and idles happily, but the second you get above 20% throttle it misfires and refuses to rev. I've already taken apart the carb and cleaned it (multiple times) and cleared the clogged main jet (which I thought was the problem) and no change.





I have also reset the fuel mixture to factory settings and no avail. The stock airbox was replaced with a pod filter and both jets are a size larger than factory, but the previous owner rode 600 miles on that setup before this problem started. The spark plug would lead me to believe it's running rich, but even leaning out the floats and the mixture screw has changed nothing. The previous owner believes it's a CDI issue but I want to be certain it's not a mechanical issue before I drop $200 on a new OEM unit.

Le Spark Plug



Here's a link to the video of the issue. help me Do the Ton! You're my only hope.

https://youtu.be/X5vTEptrBDs

Go buy a couple cans of contact cleaner. Take all of the electrical connections apart and clean them. Take the the ignition switch apart and clean it. Most importantly, take apart the kill switch and clean it. Be careful, the little ball and spring are going to try to escape. Many carburetors get destroyed because of electrical problems.

Well Since I've got Roxy kind of running I cant really start to justify making her pretty. My renthals came in the mail but I stripped the control screws so I cant get my throttle off grrr. While I try and get my controls off, here is the inspiration.







I'm really torn on the tank color. I kind of want to repaint it but the red is in pretty good condition. Thoughts? Don't know I'm looking for a black or tan seat yet.

Make it go and stop before doing any of this. At the minimum, you have to replace the brake fluid, but only if you have a hydraulic brake. Replace the fork oil. You should get some proper springs, but at least, change the fork oil for now. Change fork oil about every third engine oil change. Oh!....Fix the carburetor! Did you adjust the valves? That should be done in the beginning.

Don't be giving this guy advice if you think this bike has hydraulic fluid anywhere on it.

Your electrical connections will be fine. That bike is is great shape. What you are experiencing is that it's a thumper. One carb. One carb that is really clogged. You need to go get a welding tip cleaner ($5) and poke the little holes by the butterfly. Next up, spray another three cans of carb cleaner into every possible orifice you see in the carb, along with taking the choke out. It's not clean, trust me.

Then once it sorta starts up, get a bottle of "Seafoam" and pour it into a nearly full tank. Run it, ride it, run it, ride it. Let he Seafoam get the plaque out that carb cleaner can't.

I run a filter, I am super cautious with my gas, filtering it at home in jerry cans, and even then, I still have to run Seafoam through it once in a while to make it purr.

Not as far as the left go, I run a trumpet, no filter. Before engine mods, I had a 125 jet in there and it ran great. The top idle screw, the hidden screw, it is two turns out. Make sure the plug is new.

Get the fork oil out of the bike. I run 30w. The front on these bikes is softer than a nun's anus. Firm it up by adding some spacers inside the tubes (top) to preload the springs. No more than 35mm. Since it's a tracker you don't really plan on dropping the front I assume.

**edit - I bolded "get new plug"

Don't be giving this guy advice if think Seafoam is a step in the carb cleaning process.

Get more tools and some Nuts Off, WD40 or PB Blaster... and an easy-out for those control screws. NO STRIPPING WHEN A POLE IS NOT INVOLVED

Also, in the ATL you'll have an easier time getting an E string over the welding tip cleaner.

DohcBikes said:

Don't be giving this guy advice if think Seafoam is a step in the carb cleaning process.

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I have an SR250. I wouldn't call myself an expert on the bike, but I'm damn near close. You can clean the carb all you want with carb cleaner, or even an ultrasonic cleaner which I have, but it runs better with Seafoam in the tank a few times a year. A tank of Seafoam works with this bike.

Sorry if you don't want to hear it, but Seafoam as a final process does work. It's the only additive I know works. Everything else is horseshit.

FWIW - any "Phillips" screw that has a punch mark next to it is a Japan Industrial Standard (JIS) screw and a Phillips bit/driver will likely round it out. Get a set of JIS driver bits from Action Pro. The consensus on easy-out type devices is that they rarely work so you are better off using a hand-held impact driver and heat/left-hand drill bits if you break one off. Seafoam is a terrific product, but it has its limitations and is best used as a preventative/fuel stabilizer; true/thorough carb body cleaning requires time and labor (and non-destructive chemicals like Yamaha's Carbcleaner or Pinesol/hot water mix). The Berryman's or other commercial carb cleaner liquids are good for the (removed) brass jets. Do not forget to remove/clean the petcock/screens from the tank and test for proper flow afterwards. In addition to a new spark plug, also replace the ignition wire/plug end (it's old and there's only one).
Report back on your progress.

I have removed approximately 57 billion JIS screws with a #2 phillips screwdriver. To say that rounding them is 'likely' is a gross overstatement.

Definitely agree on the Seafoam. Yes, not a carb cleaner in any way shape or form. As zap implied it is best used as a stabilizer. If you have a dirty fuel circuit, seafoam is about as effective as burning incense to clean the passage.

I have yet to get into a situation where an easy-out didn't work. If you can center punch and drill a proper hole, the easy out works perfectly. Most people don't know how to do it right. If it's a stripped bolt, they make a bolt-out remover that you hammer on and pull with a larger wrench.

If you look closely at both the Phillips and JIS driver tips you will see that the Phillips will not completely engage the JIS machine screws (it was invented to deliberately "cam out" when over torqued). The Action Pro driver tips are only $4 a pair (they have the 3 most common sizes) so getting the set of 3 will only set you back $12 - much less than any drills/easy out/welding/machinist costs. Do a quick search - it really does much better than the Phillips drivers.

Most common phillips tips are PH1. A PH2 works just fine to remove these bolts. I guess it depends on whether you want to order something or cruise to the local hardware.

zap2504 said:

If you look closely at both the Phillips and JIS driver tips you will see that the Phillips will not completely engage the JIS machine screws (it was invented to deliberately "cam out" when over torqued). The Action Pro driver tips are only $4 a pair (they have the 3 most common sizes) so getting the set of 3 will only set you back $12 - much less than any drills/easy out/welding/machinist costs. Do a quick search - it really does much better than the Phillips drivers.

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I'm glad you just learned this and want to share your new discovery but the fact remains that a phillips will work just fine.

Well as much fun as it is keep watching the carb cleaning wars that are unfolding, I think I will end up replacing the carb with a VM Mikuni 34mm. In other build news I have ordered tires to replace the crusty (and what look to be original) tires with a Bridgestone TW40 rear and a Shinko SR241 front. I've also solved my stripped screw debacle and have the handlebars mocked up and wow waaaaaay better look and riding position. Even tidied up the 'garage' today. Bike is now tagged, title has been transfered, and I'm insured! Waiting on my helmet in the mail and taking my permit course/test next weekend.


Dry rotted fronts:


Replacement Rear:


Replacement Front:

The angle on a JIS and Phillips tip is 26.5º

I think next (while I wait for essential parts) I will paint the fenders black and trim the front fender down quite a bit since I'll have the wheels off. I'll also be replacing the fork oil and contemplating a shock rebuild. Very soon this will be my only means of transportation so that's why I'm sorta repairing/replacing part by part just to get the bike running safely and relatively reliably.

You'll love that front tire on the street, especially if you like head injuries.

DOHCBikes It's the only front tube tire that looks like it will even come close to matching the rear. And I'll take it over the dry rotted and bald 34 year old rubber.

jjacks31 said:

Very soon this will be my only means of transportation so that's why I'm sorta repairing/replacing part by part just to get the bike running safely and relatively reliably.

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Then why did you order a trials tire for the front? It will wash out without a moments notice on the street. Terrible tire choice for a street bike of any kind.