My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

Did PJ modify those carbs? First thing you need to do is throw away those pods. They block jets in the bell mouth.
 
Yes, PJ rebuilt my carbs, they're beautiful. How can the pods block jets when they fit onto the outside and the jets are inside?

Never mind, I just found PJ's post. https://www.caferacer.net/forum/tips-tricks/19639-pod-filter-thread-geeto.html
 
What they're referring to as ports in that thread are often air jets, etc in some carbs. There are carbs that have brass, removable jets just like your pilot or main jet. That's why I referred to them as jets, but it's those ports I was referring to which you figured out.
 
I can get better pods when I get the money but I took them completely off and the bike runs the same as the video I posted earlier. I've been through the whole cam, valves, points adjustment at least twice. Here's what I know:
The bike idles way too high. The idle screw is all the way out and has no effect.
Adjusting the sync screw seems to also have no effect but the video says the bike needs to be around 1200 RPM's so that could be why.
Pods or no pods it still runs shitty.
Sometimes when I first start the bike it idles low and then increases RPM's to it's current speed and stays there. I can push on the bar that is in between the carbs (sorry I don't know terminology) and the RPM's will go down but letting go of that bar they climb right back up.
It always starts up great but after riding it a short time it requires a few tries to start it again.
Sometimes it dies when I pull the clutch coming to a stop.
It runs decent at first but the longer I ride it the more sputtery it gets until it's just embarassing.
 
You're not running it with the choke on are you? There are two "bars" between the carbs. One for the choke butterflies and one for the throttle butterflies.
 
I just ordered MikesXS pods and 6 Sigma's jet tuning kit. They supposedly customize the kit based on your elevation, air filter type and exhaust type. Anyone use them before?
 
DOn't know about the MikeXS pods. I've always run either K&N or Uni on my 360/378's with PJ's carbs. Everything you're saying suggests you're really lean.
 
Double check your pilot jets, they may be clogged. Blow them thru with carb cleaner and air. That could be there reason your fuel screw isn’t doing its job.


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Exhaust system is problem at present, open and way too short. Even fitting 18" extension pipes would help.I'll look at some of the other pictures and add more later
djsmiles said:
I looked at my wiring diagram and found out that the wire coming from the ignition with the fuse inline was connected to the outside tab of the regulator/rectifier when it should have been connected to the center tab. Now when I rev the engine the volts increase as they should.
BUT when testing the R/R (that's a lot less to type) I get 13 volts from all three tabs even with the key off. Does that mean the R/R is bad?
Depending on reverse current,diodes were rated for, yep, you probably burned out a diode pair or regulator connecting battery directly to AC input. Hopefully something burned out and went open circuit before causing insulation damage to stator windings
 
Today I installed the 6 Sigma carb kit. Holy Shit what a difference. Two washers for the needle and 110 main jets.
The carbs were also way out of sync. I bench synced them as best as I could but on one side I can see two of the air holes while on the other side the butterfly covers all the holes.
One of the old jets had some gunk in it as I was not able to see as much light through it as the other one. Anyway, the response is vastly improved, it flies right up to 40mph in 2nd gear.
I think my biggest problem right now is it still idles really high. I can't tune it or sync it right.
If I push forward on the bar between the two carbs it slows down and idles nice but when I let go, the idle speeds back up. Is this part adjustable or what else might I check? (The idle screw is all the way out)
I also installed a new R/R since mine may have been burnt up.
Oh and do not order MikesXS filter pods, they're just Emgo pods but they don't advertise them that way. False advertising!

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The breather hose isn't causing it? I never route them tn the front of carbs, too much bend where it comes off cover plus it can interfere with the link bar. Did the kit have new needles? I've never found washers to work as they stop needle from 'floating' plus exaggerated the rich mixture at ~4K. No idea where crud on needles came from? I always check and clean them. Are you snapping throttle shut or allowing pulley to hit stop sharply? If the adjuster cable isn't touching pulley stop and you let throttle plate act as the stop it will probably bend
 
Hey PJ, I meant the jet had gunk in it, not the needle, my bad. i corrected my post. One of the jets only allowed a tiny hole of light through but it was one I was replacing anyway.
The breather hose is not interfering, it's just dangling there because I couldn't find another place to tuck it out of the way.
The throttle snaps back like it should, I thought the throttle cable may be too tight so I disconnected it completely and started it up and the bike idles a tiny bit lower but still not around 1000-1200 like it should so it's impossible to really tune it or sync it right. It just seems like the pulley isn't returning all the way back to an idle position like it should. I can adjust the sync screw so that it meets the pulley where it stops so as to not damage the plate.
New K&N filter pods will be here today but it runs high with pods on or off, throttle cable connected or not, its weird. But when I apply pressure to that bar it idles nice, i just can't keep it there.
Oh and this morning the battery was dead. All last week and this weekend it was fine. Then yesterday I installed the jet kit and the new R/R and rode it around a while and this morning it wouldn't start. I wanted to ride it to work and show it off. WTF.
 
Ok I figured something out but really need some assistance (as usual). With the carbs off I am turning the carb sync screw and watching the right hand butterfly move (carbs on the bench, looking at them from the engine side). No matter which direction I turn the screw the right butterfly will not cover the little holes at the bottom. When I push on that bar between the carbs it is forcing the right butterfly to cover the holes so my idle calms down, right? So I'm thinking maybe something is bent or what? Is there any way to get these to line up? Can the one on the left be loosened somehow so I can get them to match?
You can even tell, looking at the two philips screws holding the butterflys on that they are not facing directly out the same.
 

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Heres a carb rebuild I did a while back. Its pretty detailed w pics, 3-4 pages.

Hard to see in your pics but the butterfly could be installed backwards.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=27417.msg885289#msg885289
 
Update: I took the two carbs apart and after some adjustments I got the two butterflies much closer, but when I tighten down the mounting plate the right butterfly opens up a crack again. So still stuck.
Trek97, what do you mean backwards? Like take the two screws out and flip the disc around?
Oh I see what you're saying now. Mine have the bevel in the same direction.

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djsmiles said:
Update: I took the two carbs apart and after some adjustments I got the two butterflies much closer, but when I tighten down the mounting plate the right butterfly opens up a crack again. So still stuck.
Trek97, what do you mean backwards? Like take the two screws out and flip the disc around?

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yes - if they are backwards then the edge angle wont work correctly
 
Now I've seen pictures of butterflies I remember those carbs. They were pretty nasty so bores got more work than usual. I don't remember if they are the ones with bent throttle plate though? Even so, the plates are fitted properly. You do have washer either side of the joining fork on left carb? I know they were not that far out when I sent them back. Is the adjuster between carbs all the way down or all the way up? This isn't yours but it does show incorrect assemble of a set I got for modification. Both washers are on top of 'fork' Second pic is a stainless steel adjuster screw I made for someone. Washers were re-shaped to make adjustment easier
 

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Yes the washers are in the right spot. I think I found the issue. If you look at this photo you'll see that the screw is all the way out but the two arms are not spread apart. I need them further apart to get the butterflies synced up. Do I need a new spring or what else can I do? More washers?



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After further research I found that the top arm needs to go up while keeping the lower arm where it is so I don't think a new spring is the answer. I'm going to try bending that upper arm a little


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