83 Yamaha TR1 cafe build

Colvindesign1977 said:
Any plans for the spare chain drive?
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I actually started parting it out. I sold the, seat, forks and the 82xxxkm engine and kept the low mileage one as I was a bit desperate for room in the garage. I still have the frame, bodywork etc. but no plans with it.


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Colvindesign1977 said:
So the chain drive probably was still on the engine when you sold it..... :-[
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Do you mean the chain enclosure or? Not quite sure i understand exactly what part you are asking about. I have spares of almost everything:)


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Thought I was sending a pm, but might have been an email.

But this is the part
 

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It looks like crap, but seems to work.

Hydraulic clutch conversion using a clutch slave from a FJR1300 and some crude hacksawed aluminum brackets to mount it where the cover normally goes. I’m a little unsure how much clutch actuation/plate separation I actually need, I think I have around 3 mm now, which I hope is enough. The linked GIF should show it in action

The plan is to have the final bracket machined, but this should be OK for now with a bit of trimming.

Clutch in action: https://imgur.com/gallery/q0NVysl

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https://youtu.be/2BwxYIfvcTk

It’s alive!

Finally got it started after messing around with lack of spark for some time. For an engine that hasn’t run in probably 35 years and with a reputation for bad starters (it’s a bit of a misfit a TR1 981cc with the old style starter)it fires up instantly.

All the wiring is from scratch and mocked up with wago lever action nuts, which has been incredible for proving what I had designed on paper actually works in practice. Now to fit everything together properly and with the right wire length so it’ll fit under the seat.





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Really nice work, and what a great idea to use those connectors! It looks like they'll take a lot of stress out of wiring, can't wait to use them to wire mine this summer.
 
Rimmy said:
Really nice work, and what a great idea to use those connectors! It looks like they'll take a lot of stress out of wiring, can't wait to use them to wire mine this summer.
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They were a real help especially in the headlight bucket. I’m running xs650 left handlebar controls and xs400 controls on the right so a lot of different schematics. Even with diagrams and a multimeter, being able to just click up to 5 wires securely together in a second and test everything works made it so much easier.


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Mostly done wire diagram used for the build. I stopped updating it and made some changes when I implemented it on the bike, so will have to revisit and get it corrected. Fuses and ignition switch have been relocated to the electronics tray under the seat and relays added to headlight. Diagram shows a relay for the coils also, but I ended up not running that. I do have the ignition switch/key operating a relay (not pictures) that powers the fuse box directly from the battery instead, that way all the loads don’t drawn through the switch. I've also added a ground bus bar and centralized most grounds there.
 

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briandk said:
It looks like crap, but seems to work.

Hydraulic clutch conversion using a clutch slave from a FJR1300 and some crude hacksawed aluminum brackets to mount it where the cover normally goes. I’m a little unsure how much clutch actuation/plate separation I actually need, I think I have around 3 mm now, which I hope is enough. The linked GIF should show it in action

The plan is to have the final bracket machined, but this should be OK for now with a bit of trimming.

Clutch in action:
https://imgur.com/a/q0NVysl

Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Click to expand...

How did you manage to get this to work? I’ve got a similar set up but it pulls the clutch lever. Can the clutch pushrod just be pushed to disengage?

Your set up looks pretty smart!
Here’s a picture of mine. Doesn’t look nearly as cool as yours
 

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The original snail pushes the clutch-rod inwards (now I finally understand the question you asked on VTF), basically you will need an adaptor to go through the engine cover to extend the pushrod out side and then you could quite simply run a normal clutch slave cylinder.
 
der_nanno said:
The original snail pushes the clutch-rod inwards (now I finally understand the question you asked on VTF), basically you will need an adaptor to go through the engine cover to extend the pushrod out side and then you could quite simply run a normal clutch slave cylinder.
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Was that you on VTF?? understand it now! Found a diagram that suddenly made it clear! Thanks for the help. Think I might get the same or similar slave. Matches the original cover quite well. Will 3d print a new cover and make a new pushrod then test it all out next week! Finally get rid of that cheap leaky slave.

Thanks again.
 
No worries and keep us updated how well it works. I owe a hydraulic clutch conversion to a friend, whom I've built a highly souped up XV750 for last year and the clutch is a "tad" stiff.
 
der_nanno said:
No worries and keep us updated how well it works. I owe a hydraulic clutch conversion to a friend, whom I've built a highly souped up XV750 for last year and the clutch is a "tad" stiff.
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Will do! Got the first part printed. Just need some time to visit the bike now!
 
This guy here posted a very nice description of how he did his clutch conversion. It's similar to mine, just 10x nicer looking: https://cafer-racer.blogspot.com/2017/12/koppeling.html

My own build is getting there, plate is on, lights are working. Wires and hoses are a bit of a mess, but the bike runs, but it's just all sorts of small stuff that is missing now - that and seat + paint. I've actually grown quite partial to the honda paintjob though :D

tr1.jpg
 
Had a bit of a longer ride today and concluded that my rearset position is too extreme. My wrists where killing me after 5 minutes. Going to see if I can move them to the stock tr1 position.


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briandk said:
Had a bit of a longer ride today and concluded that my rearset position is too extreme. My wrists where killing me after 5 minutes. Going to see if I can move them to the stock tr1 position.


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Would love to see what you did with the rear sets. I’m holding off on ordering a set, for the reason you stated above.
 
Mr Biggz said:
Would love to see what you did with the rear sets. I’m holding off on ordering a set, for the reason you stated above.
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This is how I ended up with them. Honestly I wouldn't like them any more rear set than this, it's comfortable and not extreme in any direction. It also avoids a stupid long shift linkage.

I did run into a problem as I was using the folding tarozzi universals, but the bolt on those are not long enough to be mounted in the stock TR1 position and it's not replacable. Perhaps you could shave some material of the hangers, but I happened to have some non folding parts laying around, so I converted the rear sets to those and just used an M10 bolt of suitable length.
 
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