Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

Wangofree said:

Yes, I shrink wrap my parts. I love shrink wrap! ;D

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As Wangos wife asks....
"Honey, Have you seen the CAT lately ? What...What are you ? OMG!"

trek97 said:

As Wangos wife asks....
"Honey, Have you seen the CAT lately ? What...What are you ? OMG!"

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BWAAAHAAAA HAAAA Too funny* Trek!

*Legal notice: I do not condone shrinkwrapping any animal, alive or dead, unless it's beef or chicken.

I couldnt believe Google could not find me a shrink wrapped cat!

trek97 said:

I couldnt believe Google could not find me a shrink wrapped cat!

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HA!

trek97 said:

I couldnt believe Google could not find me a shrink wrapped cat!

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Wheres Wango ?

trek97 said:

Wheres Wango ?

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Still here Trek. I spent the last 4 days removing old laminate flooring in our kitchen and installing new 100% waterproof laminate.

Not as much fun as bike building, but it had to be done. Next up is painting the frame Rustoleum appliance enamel gloss black. I'm going to haul the frame to work and paint it there over the new year holiday. It's a lot cleaner and warmer than my garage right now.

Got my carbs back from crazypj. They look phenomenal as expected. Waiting on my tank repair. I've got a beautiful
metalflake green for it. I'm sure once I start painting I'll be reenergized to keep moving on my project. Pix will follow once I've got something to show. ;D Thanks for checking in.

I wish I had done my frame in the appliance enamel. I used the rustoleum appliance black on my fork lowers. Its much nicer looking than the chassis black I used on my frame. Its also a good idea to move it into a warmer environment, for the appliance paint takes a few days to fully dry, its very sticky stuff.

I found the coolest valve at work in the trash that I'd like to try and retrofit into a headlamp housing:



I think I can drill it out and mount an MR-16 Halogen bulb in it.





What I envision is putting screen on the bottom "vents" blocking off the top vents, having the bulb inset with some type of shock absorbing setup, a plate on the back, some type of glass/plastic on the front and Bob's your uncle. Is this a crazy idea or what?

It's definitely smaller than the stock setup, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.



I really like the look of it.

very diesel punk.

trek97 said:

very diesel punk.

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Yeah, that's what I thought. We'll see how it goes. It's a "work in progress".

Finally pulled the AC rotor off so I could remove the electric start clutch and chain gear.



You guessed it. I shrink wrapped the assembly together in case I decide later to reinstall it.

As mentioned numerous times, all it took was a 16mm x 1.5mm bolt to disengaged the rotor. $4.79 from Ace Hardware.



Installed the starter motor plug from crazypj. Man Peter does excellent work.





Today I paint the frame. In a week after it cures I start putting things together.

Painted the frame today, and Rustoleum Appliance Enamel is great! I gave it 4 or 5 coats of gloss black. I'll let it set for a week at work so it can cure and harden up.

While waiting for the frame I got back to working on the rear wheel. In my exasperation I decided to take it apart and clean and polish it properly.





It shined up nice. 8) Now I have to decide whether to replace the spokes and nipples with new stuff or go with the original. For $40 I'm leaning toward new stuff.

wow the rear hub did turn out super nice.
also, rather than buying that bolt. you coulda used the rear axel to thread in for rotor removal. it works great for that job.
And you might want to consider heavy duty clutch springs from Bore-tech.
http://bore-tech.com/product/350-clutch-springs-cs-4

trek97 said:

wow the rear hub did turn out super nice.
also, rather than buying that bolt. you coulda used the rear axel to thread in for rotor removal. it works great for that job.
And you might want to consider heavy duty clutch springs from Bore-tech.
http://bore-tech.com/product/350-clutch-springs-cs-4

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Yeah, I read mixed results with the bolt so I decided to just buy one. I didn't touch the clutch plates or springs when I had the motor torn down. They were still in spec, so I'm hoping they still have life left in them Trek. We'll see.

The link for springs is for 350 motors. Do these also fit a CB360 as well?

Clutch springs are the same for both motors.

For $40 I'd get new spokes too, I polished 80 of them by hand just to save money and I think the next time I will just buy new. Was all I could do to get 10 or so done a day.

Thanks FM - good to know about the springs. I'm 99.99% sure I'll buy new spokes. And after I do that I'll probably realize the front wheel needs new ones too so I might as well cough up the money for both wheels now.

NOT to say they are salvagable, but take some wd-40 and 0000 grade steel wool to them and see if you can get the corrosion off. They are zinc plated and they never will really shine like chrome but the zinc will have a warmer deeper shine IMHO. IF they clean up OK then polish them. You can save that money. For my 450 wheels it was going to cost me 120 bucks to do both. I said to hell with that and just stood behind the buffer wheel for 10-20 minutes a shot. The nipples I soaked in barrymans carb/part cleaner until they came out tarnish free. Did the same with the spokes before I polished them.

Wangofree said:

The link for springs is for 350 motors. Do these also fit a CB360 as well?

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yes the heavy duty 350 springs fit the 360. these are the springs I installed during my rebuild. I am very happy with them.

Thanks guys for info on the spokes and springs. There's still a lot of winter left to work in the garage, so cleaning and polishing is certainly an option.

I was a little anxious about changing out the wheel bearings, but so far the back wheel was a piece of cake. They pushed out ok. Due to my procrastination the new bearings have been in the freezer for 2 weeks. All it took was a little heat, grease on the outer bearing, a light tap with PVC and both went right in.









Sweet. Now I need to work on the front wheel. I've decided to dismantle the front spokes and send everything to Matt (Sonreir) for zinc plating. Looking forward to clean somewhat shiney, but well protected spokes and nipples.

Probably not looking forward to relacing, but I've taken enough photos and I documented what goes where on the inside of the wheels.




RT - Right top, RB - Right bottom, LT - Left top, etc. . . A friend of mine recommended a couple of options for getting the wheels trued once they're laced up again.

Last photo is my inspiration. Got the air cleaners for the carbs that crazypj worked on. They are a thing of beauty. What a life saver Peter is. That's one less thing that can go wrong right off the bat.



I really like the piece of stainless hose I found at work for the breather hose. I'll see if I keep it when I start putting things back together.