CB's 19" Front wheel 18" rear, why and why not?? (and other ?'s :) )

So, I have a CB550k, and I'm currently in search of some type of mags, probably will go with comstar seeing as Lesters are so hard to find and big bucks.

I've always thought the Honda techs knew what they were doing when they originally made these bikes, so why do some people decide to go for 18" wheels front and back?

Also, I love what they did with these comstars http://caferacersunited.com/honda-cb650-cafe-racer-the-tricore-by-studio-motor/

It says they used "The original Comstar wheels (19×2.15 “and 18×2.15″) were coupled with 19×3.00″ and 18×4.50″ rims that now wear Avon Cobra 120/70-19 and 160/70-18 and give the rider another support."

So, I've never had some of these Comstars in my possession, so can they be taken apart and rebuilt like this, just by undoing some nuts, or does it require what looks like (sorry don't know the technical terms) but machine pressed "bolts"? where they connect to the rim, and if so can most machine shops do it?

(And in theory should that CB650 with these wide wheels they've created, handle well or even better?)

Last, by changing the wideness of the front wheel, am I right in thinking then the front fender/mudguard has to be changed/widened?

I was planning on a closer hugging front fender/mudguard, so with an 18" front, does that mean filling the mounting holes and creating new ones? I like the look of early eighties cb900's front fenders, does anyone know if they would require any modding for standard CB550k forks?

Sorry about so many questions in one post! :-* ;D

Lesters are around, just have to look.
Just saw a parts bike in NY with them on it. Whole bike was sub $1000
Gota pay to play.

While that bike you posted isn't the worst, it is fairly bad.
It is an art piece to take pictures of. I will stop faster then stock, but will handle worse.

Look at the people that actually raced these bikes.
What did they do?

So I guess your saying go with 18's front and rear? Can you shed any light on my other questions, because I'm planning on having black wheels, so it would be a shame to paint Lesters black, so that's why I'm going with the comstars.

What?
Most Lester wheels are black.
And the question about wider wheels? Ill refer back to my statement "what did the racers do?"
If the goal is to have a bike with improved function then you need to look at past and current racers. Ill give you a hint, they don't run 190 wide tires. While some have limits in classes to tire size, I think it is fair to say on a street bike going outside of those roles isn't going to gain you much.

Taking wheels apart? Some have done it, I don't see the point really.

As for the look, im not your guy.
I look down on most of the fashion junk, like that bike you linked.

find some morris mags in mag and you really got something otherwise if you must go comstar the reverse stars are a bit lighter but still they are generic, made to suit a heavy bike loaded to the gills
they are probably lighter than lesters tho(reverse stars)
you will be better off lacing up alloy rims one size wider front and back

Mags are heavier and take more force to make spin which eats up HP, they also slow up the steering since they have more mass in rotation and will resist changing angle and direction more than lighter spoke wheels. Read that as slower turning heavy wheels. Good for bikes meant to go straight down the road. They will be more inclined to stay put than wander and be cause of their weight (mass in motion tends to stay in motion) they will help a bike stay at a speed without much input from the engine once they get there. They will also have more wind drag, especially at a 90 degree angle from them, when the wind blows you will know it. Comstars can be taken apart, not something that is advisable since you will have to make sure they go back together correctly or else risk them coming apart at speed.

As to why the 18-19, its a height/angle thing, having a front end higher than the rear will make it turn slower, so will dragging the rake out, making the wheel base longer by a touch. Basically making it more stable. Closing the distance between the wheels makes a bike shorter giving it shorter turning radius and faster turns at the cost of some stability. A 19" is also fashion at the time, just like the monster rears and 24" fronts of today. Those mode do nothing for the performance of the bike, IMHO makes them look equally stupid as the amount of money someone wastes on it just to get it to look like that. I'm not getting this take an old 60's-80's bike and make it look like a new one. Just go buy the new one, its probably cheaper and will run better with less work.

The statement that "mags are heavier" is flat wrong as a blanket comment.
Some mags might be heavier then steel spoked wheels. But many mags that were actually used on race bikes are not only stronger but lighter as well.

surffly said:

The statement that "mags are heavier" is flat wrong as a blanket comment.
Some mags might be heavier then steel spoked wheels. But many mags that were actually used on race bikes are not only stronger but lighter as well.

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Boy, you must hate the one I have in the hole now haha... I think that tech has evolved and not stuck in 1970 as far as adding new brakes, tires (within reason) and wheels go, after all you are shedding weight everywhere else (center stand needs to go) The key is to maintain geometry as close to stock as possible (IMO) the weakest link is a big one... the frame needs some rethinking unless you like wiggle when braking or powering through apex and I guess could "pretzel" if you hit a big G-Out during hard braking/acceleration with all the new traction, you need to get with someone who knows where to beef up the rigidity without creating even more weak points. As far as town riding and dropping in and around corners at super low speeds, you will loose agility in that respect. Don't draw in the rake and jack up the ass, it creates a sucking sound!! 8)

I will be doing some frame stressing and non destructive testing to see how to gusset and beef up my frame to get it to as safe as I can while watching the dry weight of the bike, I am too old and fat to put it through the paces but I will get someone to ride it on course and give us some real honest feedback, I don't expect it to be on par with modern tech, but I rode some scary shit in my life and I don't think upgrading suspension and adding sticky rubber will lessen the performance if done correctly.

you don't want to eliminate ALL frame or swingarm flex doing so will have a negative effect on handling
you need to know what you are doing and why
kevin cameron has some good knowledgable facts written to this subject

xb33bsa said:

you don't want to eliminate ALL frame or swingarm flex doing so will have a negative effect on handling
you need to know what you are doing and why
kevin cameron has some good knowledgable facts written to this subject

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I searched for Kevin and found a thread on topic... even better I think I found my test rider!!!:

Ha, that's Swapmeet Louis, He can't ride anymore do to MS, but he would have been a good choice otherwise.

Maritime said:

Ha, that's Swapmeet Louis, He can't ride anymore do to MS, but he would have been a good choice otherwise.

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Sorry to hear that man... the antics remind me of a close friend.

He is doing as well as can be, he just posted a positive note on FB that he has MS but MS doesn't have him, he just can't safely ride anymore but can still drive etc.

Tune-A-Fish said:

Boy, you must hate the one I have in the hole now haha... I think that tech has evolved and not stuck in 1970 as far as adding new brakes, tires (within reason) and wheels go, after all you are shedding weight everywhere else (center stand needs to go) The key is to maintain geometry as close to stock as possible (IMO) the weakest link is a big one... the frame needs some rethinking unless you like wiggle when braking or powering through apex and I guess could "pretzel" if you hit a big G-Out during hard braking/acceleration with all the new traction, you need to get with someone who knows where to beef up the rigidity without creating even more weak points. As far as town riding and dropping in and around corners at super low speeds, you will loose agility in that respect. Don't draw in the rake and jack up the ass, it creates a sucking sound!! 8)

I will be doing some frame stressing and non destructive testing to see how to gusset and beef up my frame to get it to as safe as I can while watching the dry weight of the bike, I am too old and fat to put it through the paces but I will get someone to ride it on course and give us some real honest feedback, I don't expect it to be on par with modern tech, but I rode some scary shit in my life and I don't think upgrading suspension and adding sticky rubber will lessen the performance if done correctly.

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Sure some tech has advanced. So? I wouldn't think CF wheels from a 996 will help a CB550 perform better.
Like you said, things need to be in balance with each other.

My point was that some "mag" wheels were in fact lighter and stronger then the stock wire wheels. I agree that removing weight from wheels an other parts is a big plus. But don't kid yourself, many thing they pull 100s of pounds off of their "café racers" and actually don't.

Also a HUGE difference between a race bike and a performance street bike. Many do not get that.

Read a book by tony foale.
AMAZING info on frame design and such.

when yamaha put the mag wheels on the RD(rd400) they fucking ruined the handling :'(
and NONE of the jap mag wheels that came OEM on street bikes in the 70's early 80's were lighter than their wire spoked counterpart,none

Okay, but we might not be talking the same things.

Lesters are not OEM. I agree that Lesters are not a performance wheel. This weekend ill weigh mine, but assume there is no savings.

Morris, Kimtab, Haytashi and the like are much lighter then stock. Some are actually magnesium race wheels.
Comments shouldn't be "mag wheels are great" or "mags suck" It should be more a discussion on what wheels are better then others and such.

surffly said:

Okay, but we might not be talking the same things.

Lesters are not OEM. I agree that Lesters are not a performance wheel. This weekend ill weigh mine, but assume there is no savings.

Morris, Kimtab, Haytashi and the like are much lighter then stock. Some are actually magnesium race wheels.
Comments shouldn't be "mag wheels are great" or "mags suck" It should be more a discussion on what wheels are better then others and such.

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lesters were not lighter , neither were any aftermarket cast aluminum mags,including morris, in those early times,none of them
the only light ones were the ones available in magnesium like morris and marchenisi

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371154068144?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Find the front to match and you have some wheels, but you better hurry! when these guys see this add it will be gone.

good lord those are very heavy :-\

xb33bsa said:

good lord those are very heavy :-\

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I don't think it matters if he intends to use comstars, $99 and a disk conversion all in one. 16" will give some room for that fat tire without the need for air shocks and a longer swinger

RD