O2 sensor + CB360 = interesting tidbits for everyone.

trek97 said:

LOL and thats no shit. HA, I can't believe you got that. Thanks bud!

;D ;D ;D

so...things I hate

#1 valves
#2 syncing carbs
#3 floats

In that order. I think.

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Even I have a bit of trouble with floats, particularly if they are twisted so different heights. Always check both floats if your using a rule
Carbs are real simple as long as you have the proper tool, I can sync carbs in literally 2 mins. It takes longer to get the tank on and off.
Valves are simple if you use 3 feeler gauges and do Go - No Go 0.002" slides into intake but 0.003" won't go, 0.003" slides into exhaust but 0.004" won't go. Curve the end of feeler into a 'J' shape

crazypj said:

Even I have a bit of trouble with floats, particularly if they are twisted so different heights. Always check both floats if your using a rule
Carbs are real simple as long as you have the proper tool, I can sync carbs in literally 2 mins. It takes longer to get the tank on and off.
Valves are simple if you use 3 feeler gauges and do Go - No Go 0.002" slides into intake but 0.003" won't go, 0.003" slides into exhaust but 0.004" won't go. Curve the end of feeler into a 'J' shape

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I can't believe I forgot about go / no go - it was how I did valve clearances on the BMW M20/M30 motors back in the day. As far as messing with float height, I don't even remember what I've done with the carbs since I got them back from you ;D At this point, I wouldnt't be surprised if they were set at 10 mm and upside down

Also, Harbor Freight has sets of Imperial / Metric feeler gauges for cheap - I just picked up another two so I could bend the heck out of them.

crazypj said:

Is the wideband a heated O2 sensor?

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Yeah, the LM-2 does heat the 02 sensor. They come with a cigarette adapter that we often plug into a jumper pack if we don't have access to a reliable plug. When you turn it on it'll give you a warmup cycle until it is up to temp, then it will start reading.

Worst cb650 ever said:

Also, Harbor Freight has sets of Imperial / Metric feeler gauges for cheap - I just picked up another two so I could bend the heck out of them.

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I've bought a few sets at HF, they are as accurate as anyone else even if the 'stainless steel' isn't the best (Snap-On rust like crazy if you don't keep them oiled, so I don't think they are worth the extra) One of the best sets I ever picked up was in bargain bucket at Wal-Mart $2.00 for pretty high quality feeler set, even had decent pivot screw. ;D

krafty said:

Yeah, the LM-2 does heat the 02 sensor. They come with a cigarette adapter that we often plug into a jumper pack if we don't have access to a reliable plug. When you turn it on it'll give you a warmup cycle until it is up to temp, then it will start reading.

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I've heard the heated O2 is more accurate and reliable than the earlier type? I'll have to look into it.
They are both glorified variable resistors when it comes down to it, measure just above zero and just below one volt depending on O2 content (I know Suzuki ones are 0.1 ~0.9V on 1250 Bandit )

This sensor I have is heated.

trek97 said:

This sensor I have is heated.

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All automotive type O2 sensors are heated. They need to reach a temperature in order to generate the voltage they need to give a reading. Rich mixtures cause voltage to rise and Lean causes low voltage. Usually they need to be 600 degrees to give an accurate reading. I use them in ceramics all the time when firing kilns to get readings on sections of the kilns to determine if reduction is consistent throughout the firing. Ours are not heated though, since we're generating temperatures in excess of 2300 degrees. Heating helps get a quicker more accurate reading.

Worst cb650 ever said:

Guess I'll be pulling the carbs off again to readjust the float height...

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Hey bud, this just dawned on me. I have had 41 pilots installed. Yesterday I went back to 35s and have lost some control of my A/F needles. With the 35s I need to have em turned out 3,4,5 turns to get her down to 12.5 to 1. Im sure this is due to the 21.5mm float height.
Even still she wants to die on take off.

So, I dont recommend adjusting floats any higher than PJs 21mm.

Like I said "mine are still experimental"

So my jets are stock, other than the replacement "primary main jets", which PJ modified from new Keihin jets that were a bit too long. That means I have #35 slow jets I believe.

I was fighting with the 900 yesterday to get the front wheel and the triple tree to agree on what direction to point when going straight down the road, so I haven't pulled the carbs yet. It's raining today, so maybe that will encourage me.

3,4,5 turns out shows a lean idle mix, must be float level as it isn't normally that lean with 35 pilots

You guys are making me paranoid. My bike runs beautifully with hardly any adjustment. Makes me think there's something I'm missing.

deviant said:

You guys are making me paranoid. My bike runs beautifully with hardly any adjustment. Makes me think there's something I'm missing.

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Don't. Touch. Anything. ;D

deviant said:

You guys are making me paranoid. My bike runs beautifully with hardly any adjustment. Makes me think there's something I'm missing.

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Thats classic...."hardly any adjustment"

Ask PJ how many years it took him to come up w the..."hardly any adjustment" voodoo mix inside your carbs.

Nobody likes a smart ass. LOL

deviant said:

You guys are making me paranoid. My bike runs beautifully with hardly any adjustment. Makes me think there's something I'm missing.

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As soon as you start messing with it to 'improve' things, it will fuck up.
If it's running well, leave it alone and get a better ignition sometime, that will allow and extra 1,000~1,500 rpm which will get you into serious speeding ticketing country 8) (but it ain't enough to 'run away')
Decent tyres will help a lot, at least you can go round corners double the posted limit (or more I've done 3.5 times on some ridiculously low limits)
As Trek says, I don't know how many years it took to get set up to where some fine tuning is all that's needed, at least 5~6 yrs since I started playing with 360's in USA and ????????????????? years before that in Britain, the 250 uses the exact same carbs and jetting (745~747)

Wife is away at a conference or something, left to my own devices
I'm sitting in front of TV with carbs, x10 jewellers loupe, stainless steel rule ;D


BTW, that is the approximate angle to hold carbs for float height adjustment, and yes, I do split them to do it

crazypj said:

As soon as you start messing with it to 'improve' things, it will fuck up.

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Ha! Thats the exact same reason I tell people.

You truly ARE a Crazy, PJ !

I try ;D

I was planning a 50 mile round trip to my buddies house this morning, to check carb operation. However, it started raining at 5:30 this morning, and dont look like its gonna stop til monday.

So, a good weekend to work on the advancer.

Where she was at...



Where she is currently...



The goal...





First, I find free play in the weights. pull one weight out to its stop and wiggle the opposite weight, then the other. After I found which weight has the most free play I worked on the opposite weight stop. Grinding it down w the dremel, just a little.



keeping in mind everything needs to go back together exactly how it came apart. (especially lobe orientation) Clean thoroughly, grease and reassemble.

Then I re-installed on bike, set point gap on the left, static time, adjust right point to suit. After warming bike up a bit, check it w the strobe light and tweak to perfection.

After like 10 times, on and off the bike, I had both weights hitting the stops at simultaneously, This gave me some advance but not enough.
I dont want to remove anymore off the stops. So now I am working on the weights themselves. I understand by removing material from the weights this can change advancer operation a bit. But, I dont believe it will be a detrimental change, cause its just a little.



I am pretty conservative with dremel just removing a bit at a time, then checking operation on the bike and repeating the whole process...I dont want to go too far and then have to find another advancer and start over.

After like 6 times I have gotten pretty quick at setting up timing. ;D

The Pamco ignition is calling your names..."Trek...Treeekkkkk...buuuyyyy meeeee"

;D

Seriously though, it never occurred to me to tune the advance by modifying the advancer. Nice work!

Worst cb650 ever said:

The Pamco ignition is calling your names..."Trek...Treeekkkkk...buuuyyyy meeeee"

;D

Seriously though, it never occurred to me to tune the advance by modifying the advancer. Nice work!

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LOL, I installed a Pertronix electronic ignition on my old 70 Chevy 4x4. It failed while me and my daughter was 4 day camping weekend, off roading, mushroom hunting...100 miles from home.



God I miss those days...and that truck!