CL360 Cafe Carb Stumble

Cable is adjusted back to front. Nuts go up and adjuster goes down, not the other way round. :)
 
Im sorry dude. But thats not a clutch cable! Its a front drum brake cable! The previous owner must have scabbed it in there.
I am simply amazed it works at all. :eek:
You need to order a clutch cable. ::)
OR check to make sure he didnt swap em!!! maybe you'll find the clutch cable on your front brake! ;D

I dont know how she will react to stock boxes and a more open exhaust.

I do agree though. compound did a great job on his exhaust. It looks great.

Order a real clutch cable. And one of those cable lubing clamp things. And go kick $12.95 out of the ass of the guy you bought it from.
I got mine from DCC. Heres this months code for 10% off at DCC, I&A0966

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-cables-honda-cj360-cb360-cb550-cb750-clutch-cable-02-0005.html

Cable lube tool

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-tools-cable-lube-tool-08-0182.html

carb sync
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-tools-twin-carburetor-vacuum-gauge-sync-kit-84-68592.html
 
Seriously, dang that sucks and if the cables are changed it might make sense why my front brake sucks. The bike does shift and the clutch engages fine just not till the lever is almost completely out. I figured that was just how it was. After doing the adjustment like I read on this site, I can finally find neutral first try and it shifts and engages really good but I want it to work right so good thing tax returns are coming up. I will get the right things and get it done right. I will post a pick of the front drum brake cable so you can tell me if I need to change that as well. Thanks.
 
Ok so here is the pic of the front brake cable. Looking very closely at my download of the manual and based of of what you said Trek97 I think this is the clutch cable. This explains a lot.
 

Attachments

  • Front Brake?.jpg
    Front Brake?.jpg
    742.7 KB · Views: 184
Good news! That is also a front brake cable. Lube it!!! You just need to order a new clutch cable.

Also, there are a couple other things to check.

#1 in the pic, check to make sure that nut is tight on the stud. may just be angle and lighting but it looks loose. as compared to the other one.

#2 you say your brake sucks. Make sure the factory divits (punch marks) are lined up together perfectly. end of pivot shaft to the levers. Both pairs have the punch marks. see my post about this below.
http://www.hondabrat.com/2012/11/front-drum-brake.html

#3 that tiny little hole is for a safety wire or tiny cotter key. so the end of the cable can never pop out of the holder. No matter what happens to the bike. It simply runs through the holes. to trap the cable end.

FrontBrakejpg_thumb_zpsfe4e3f07.jpg
 
Ok will do. Will the wrong cable cause the clutch to not fully release after about 10 miles. I took the bike through the mountains today and after about 10-15 miles the clutch would not release and the bike would stall at a stop unless I put it in neutral. Now after the ride the lever goes straight to the grip before it engages where before the clutch lever had to be almost out to grab. The bike ran and shifted and clutched fine until about 10-15 miles into the ride. Also at the same time it became really hard to shift I had to really force it into gear where as before it would shift just fine but as the bike got hotter the harder it was to shift.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Im just not to sure about all that. Maybe stretched and is getting ready to break?
a Fresh lubed new cable won't hurt anything. also, you should probably drain whatever crap the PO put in there and fill her w Rotella 5w-40 (blue bottle)

this is the only kind of oil you put in any honda 360. Nothing else...ever! You can get a gallon jug at Walmart. Other oils dont play well w the clutch disks and will allow her to slip, badly. All the time. Hopefully the disks and plates aren't too worn out.

I also add ZDDP to mine. But Im a crazy person.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-zddp-oil-additive-4-oz.html
 
I am using Yamalube 10W-40 non synthetic right now. It was the least expensive stuff at my local shop.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got it. I am going to pull the clutch plates this weekend to make sure there is no damage and I will replace my oil with that.

I looked at the brakes and all the divits line up. I will tighten the but up and get a safety wire as well. Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
the nuts on the axel holders should be properly torqued to...
Lubed...19.5 foot lbs or Dry...23.8 foot lbs.

Long as your opening the right case and the clutch basket...
I would install fresh heavy duty Clutch springs...at $14.90 They are to inexpensive not to do it.
http://bore-tech.com/product/350-clutch-springs-cs-4

And definitely Get a pair of snap ring pliers and clean out the oil filter cup.
 
Read it thanks. I got my tax return money so I should have this bike going good sooner then later. Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The only Rotella oil I could find said it was for diesel trucks is that the right stuff? It is 5W-40 oil. Hard to believe but in my little town we don't have a walmart but we do have a autozone and that is all they carried is that what you are talking about? I am still waiting on my clutch cable from DCC so once I get that installed I will be back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The only Rotella in the blue bottle. If you would like a second opinion on this, I encourage you to ask crazypj or just about any other 360 owner on here. After new clutch disks, hd springs, oil w zddp additive. I lost 500 plus rpm of constant clutch slip at 60 mph. results may vary ;D

http://www.amazon.com/Rotella-550019921-5W-40-Synthetic-Heavy/dp/B005CHT4W6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393554111&sr=8-1&keywords=rotella+t6+5w-40+synthetic
 
I totally believe you no second opinion needed. I replaced the clutch cable and the clutch works good. Also cut my own gasket and so far after a little .7 mile ride around my block (according to my odometer which I think is off because at 50mph according to one of those speed electronic signs I was doing an indicated 70mph plus) there is no leak. Now to order some Rotella and change my oil.

I also tightened the fork bolts and the front brake works a little better. The dots do line up so I don't know what else to do. Might need new brake pads. It might just be the fact that I am used to a XR650R with a disk brake and weighting only about 300lbs it would pull a stoppy with out even trying. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nice, New cables are shipped, dry. Always remember to lube them.

when fresh and set up correctly these old drums work pretty darn good...but maybe not as good as a newer bike w disks.
When you pull the front hub apart, to replace brake shoes, new sealed wheel bearings are pretty cheap.
Clean up the speedo drive and put some fresh grease in it. Lube the speedo cable. This might help w speedo accuracy.
Also, use 400 grit paper to remove glazing and dress the brake drum surface.
then ride it a bit and pull it back apart to check for even wear all the way around on the new pads.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom