rsjudka said:Hey guys sorry for being so inactive but I was bust with school (projects and midterms and such)
I was checking the vacuum pressure of each of my carbs and they are a bit of sync (26 left 30 right) so I'm going to need to sync that up, but I just got stock mufflers for the bike but there is a pinhead sized hole in one of them. Will this hole cause any problems? Or is there an easy way to patch it up? Also is there some safe way to remove surface rust from the pipes?
I also noticed a drilled hole in the right side, is that supposed to be there?
Thanks for telling me because I really hate syncing lol (not so much with the adjustments more so with the prep to be able to reach the sync screw lol)crazypj said:That isn't enough to make a difference, Honda say within 5mm mercury is fine ( I`ve found 2mm woks better and doesn't take too long
irk miller said:Check your clutch adjustment.
millermatic187 said:I had a similar issue on a CB360t that is used to have. The float in the right side carb was screwed up. Like the tang was broken off for the float needle. But the right side pipe would get really hot, like it was running super lean. You’re saying that it’s cold/warm points in the direction of an ignition issue, paired with the blue/white smoke being more than likely un burnt fuel. Definitely get to the bottom of it, because that fuel will eventually wash the cylinder walls down and then bad things happen.
trek97 said:If the tang was broke off float, the needle would drop down and never close. This would cause fuel level to rise, dumping entire contents of fuel tank onto the ground through the overflow tube.
The bike would run rich, blowing black smoke (un-burnt) fuel. The pipe would be cooler temperature.
But yes, an overly rich condition can wash cylinder walls.
millermatic187 said:If the needle dropped down.....in my case it was stuck. But anyways, his issue isn’t with it running rich, it’s getting it to light initially. Removing the one plug wire doesn’t change anything. He said after letting it run, the right side is warm, while the left side is hot like it’s supposed to be Which is more than likely heat transfer from the other cylinder. But after riding it for a few minutes it runs fine. Like a bad condenser, or a set of points that are set too wide, where you need more current to light the candle. My suggestion is to start with the simple stuff. Fresh plugs, set the valves, cam chain tension, maybe a set of spark plug boots. But if that doesn’t cure it, and you have to dive in deeper (coils,points) throw that crap out and step into the 21st century with a modern ignition. 40 years is a long time for Japanese electrical components.
irk miller said:Although 130 is not super bad. It's not as good as 160, but it's not as bad as 90.