Cb360 Reassembly Help

That advancer needs to go into the trash. They sell them on Ebay for as little as $15. I'm wondering if the cam sleeve is missing altogether.
 
https://www.ebay.com/p/74-Honda-Cb360-CB-360-OEM-Advance-Spark-Advancer-Mechanism-Timing-Rotor/1911838263?iid=263237104855&chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fp%25252F74-Honda-Cb360-CB-360-OEM-Advance-Spark-Advancer-Mechanism-Timing-Rotor%25252F1911838263%25253Fiid%25253D263237104855%252526chn%25253Dps%2526itemid%253D263237104855%2526targetid%253D593772237013%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9060073%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D1689945013%2526adgroupid%253D69559042287%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-593772237013%2526abcId%253D1140466%2526merchantid%253D113782593%2526gclid%253DEAIaIQobChMIu7Laj7bA4AIVCODICh3mjgBhEAQYCyABEgJUwPD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1860525836575%2526rvr_ts%253Df6a0d5281680ac1d1ba0c2f4fff1ec2a


This one look decent?

What is the cam sleeve ?
 
Yes buy that. Make sure to keep the cams locator pin from your original as its missing from the one in the ebay ad.

Also once it arrives disassemble it, take care not to overstretch or bend springs, clean it and fresh grease.

And dont loose any of the spring washers (I think I already had 2 or 4 installed in that pic.). there's several of them.

11494-130714073507-4591987.jpeg
 
The pin fits in the back of the advancer plate and into the cam shaft.

Ties (locks) them together so they wont spin independently.

If its not in the back of your advancer its probably stuck in the cam shaft.
 
99% of the time they stay in the cam. As in, you would have to actually take it out of the cam on purpose. No one ever sells an advancer with the pin, since the pin is considered a part of the cam, not the advancer.

0f7641ffef4562d18d8dde006255fa03.jpg
 
irk miller said:
99% of the time they stay in the cam. As in, you would have to actually take it out of the cam on purpose. No one ever sells an advancer with the pin, since the pin is considered a part of the cam, not the advancer.

Forgive me, its been a while.
 
Forgive me, but from the the starting point of refreshing the advancer I would like to walk through this step by step.

Just got my advancer in this morning, so after I rebuild it, what should I do next?
 
You don't really need to rebuild it, per se. Clean it up, replace the springs (if necessary), lube the pivots and lube under the cam. That's really it. If there are any burrs or rough patches on the cam surface, then polish it up with very fine sandpaper and Autosol or Simichrome.
 
After the rebuild, make sure it rotates smoothly so that when the advancer weights move outward, the cam on the advance moves a little. It should have tension from the springs but shouldn't bind at all and it shouldn't take too much effort to move.

Then it just goes onto the end of the camshaft, with the locater pin holding the advancer in place.
 
Advancer rebuilt, actually turned out better than I thought. Pretty pleased with it, as there is a noticeable difference in functionality now.
I put it back on the cam, the left points are still opening as they should, though they may be staying open to long, i am not entirely sure, and the right points are not opening. I will take take the tension off the point springs when I get off work, but that is what I finished up this morning.
 
cb360j said:
Advancer rebuilt, actually turned out better than I thought. Pretty pleased with it, as there is a noticeable difference in functionality now.
I put it back on the cam, the left points are still opening as they should, though they may be staying open to long, i am not entirely sure, and the right points are not opening. I will take take the tension off the point springs when I get off work, but that is what I finished up this morning.
Your right points are on their own plate separate from the left. Once you get the gap set, you should see them act right.
 
Sonreir said:
Can you compare the wires to the harness and check and ensure the colors match up? That usually occurs when the ground and power wires are swapped.
Yep, if you put it in the wrong hole by accident things can get real nasty
Sonreir said:
They should just open as the crank rotates (counter-clockwise) past the LF mark. At their widest, they should be about .014", but I think anything up to .017" is still in spec?

If the points don't open exactly at the LF mark, then your ignition timing will be off.
0.012"~0.016" for max points gap. The dwell changes with points gap so try and stay around 0.014" Adjusting gap also adjusts timing so set gap, rotate backplate, check gap, rotate backplate again then do the other set (and maybe start over if you did the 'wrong set first ;D )
trek97 said:
Yes buy that. Make sure to keep the cams locator pin from your original as its missing from the one in the ebay ad.

Also once it arrives disassemble it, take care not to overstretch or bend springs, clean it and fresh grease.

And dont loose any of the spring washers (I think I already had 2 or 4 installed in that pic.). there's several of them.

11494-130714073507-4591987.jpeg
The price at $79.00 is probably the last official Honda price list for 360. I have a few NOS for 'CB93' which last listed at $63.00
 
. Just doesn’t seem correct, and I know I’m certainly missing something and it shouldn’t be this hard for me to understand. As the left points open, it’s approaching the Lf mark. So that makes me wonder if it’s 180° out. But I never took this advanced fully apart, just lubed up really well.
Secondly, the right points aren’t opening.

And for my understanding:
Setting the gap, means the distance between the part of the point that opens, correct?
If I’m setting them, as I rotate to the LF mark the left should open. I put feeler gauge in between point and check the gap. Use the top adjuster screw only to adjust.

Then for the right, I rotate to the F mark, where the right point should open, and doing same as with left points I adjust the gap.
 
Your first sentence sounds correct. Left point should open as the rotor passes the LF mark.

For setting the gap, you insert the feeler gauge when the point is open at its widest. This can take a little effort if the point is not opening at all. You might need to gap it an arbitrary amount just to get it to open at all. Then you can set the gap correctly.

The idea is that you set the gap on the left point, then you adjust the points plate so that the point just opens (you check this with a timing light or multimeter) as you reach the LF mark. Then, you set the timing on the right side by setting the gap. If the necessary gap on the right point is out of spec in order to achieve the correct timing (right point just opening as rotor F mark passes the timing mark on the stator), then it's time for new points.
 
It's also important to note that the points only open on every other rotation of the crankshaft. So if the right points aren't opening, turn the crank another 360°.
 
You check p[points gap about 100 degrees past 'T' mark so it's in about middle of 'crown' of points cam
 
If the right point is not opening, does that mean the bottom screw needs to be loosened, then move the point closer to the came lobe?
 
cb360j said:
If the right point is not opening, does that mean the bottom screw needs to be loosened, then move the point closer to the came lobe?

Possibly. You'll need to eyeball the points follower were it contacts the cam and make sure it is resting on it.
 
This sounds like a very, very stupid question.. But
The point lobe, needs to be in contact with the cam lobe when it is supposed to be in the open position correct?
 
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