"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

I recently did a MAJOR reconstruction project on a nose fairing for an '86 VFR750 for an older gentleman that rents the shop space next to mine.....he saw me repairing some other plastic parts and asked if I could save this thing from the garbage and I haven't told him I got it to this point yet. Did it for free as a pay-it-forward. This bike is his first ever motorcycle he's owned since new that he crashed on a year ago.

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I am waiting on the "Gear-Driven Cams V4" decals to come in that I found online for $2 ea then putting real 2K clear over it. I can't wait to see his face when I give it back.
 
First test piece trying to spray 'properly'.

I laid all the colour coats but had a few 'scratches' still showing through from the bodywork. I wetsanded and then laid 2 more thick colour coats! Turned out pretty good for now!

Still need to lay the pinstripe and decals and then lay the clear coat!
 

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Got some orange peel and a few very slight runs in my clear that I applied.

I need a solid wetsand and then a buff, but I don't have a buffer for this.

Is it possible to get a nice finish and remove sanding scratches by hand buffing?
 
Yes it just takes longer. Power buffing is just faster but you can get a mirror finish with hand buff, your arms will be sore but you can do it.
 
Any advice on compounds, cloths, materials etc?

Gonna probably wet sand from 2000-2500-3000 before buffing.
 
Sweet. Picked up some rubbing compound, and some 2500, and 3000 grit wet and dry. I've only got slight orange peel so didn't want to go too course.

Do you think I will need to go finer after a rubbing compound...something like swirl remover?
 
Will likely rattle can my CB400Four swingarm----anyone have any experience matching mid 70's Honda frame black from a rattle can? I'm guessing it'll be a semi-gloss for sure....

Thanks
 
Ah, thanks.....

Ended up using VHT Roll Bar and Chassis in Gloss Black.

Not perfect, but hoping it blends in once the other bits and pieces are all bolted back on.

enhance
 
Hey guys,

I have an old BSA, dating from around 1967, so more than 50 years old. The frame, and the paint on the frame, is remarkably good. My question is how much surface preparation do I need to do in order to touch up the places that need it? If I need to blast all the way back to the metal that's fine, but I'm wondering what the real requirement is for overcoating with say VHT epoxy black is. What is the appropriate surface preparation?
 
If the paint is in good shape, just a good sanding to give "tooth" to the surface should be all you need. I doubt you'll get any reactions between the old frame paint and VHT chassis epoxy etc.
 
I painted a car hood with base coat then spraymax 2k clearcoat.

The color looks great but the clear has a big area in the middle of the hood where the clearcoat is rough to the feel. Its beyond orange peel. I remember when I go to this area one of my cans started to sputter and this section look and feels terrible to the touch, its very rough and tou can see hundreds of tiny raised droplets.

This is why I say that its beyond orange peel. Orang peel tome is like hundreds of tiny potholes.

This is more like hundreds of rain drops staked ontop one another.

I wonder if it can be wetsanded?View attachment 221110
 

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jfman said:
I painted a car hood with base coat then spraymax 2k clearcoat.

The color looks great but the clear has a big area in the middle of the hood where the clearcoat is rough to the feel. Its beyond orange peel. I remember when I go to this area one of my cans started to sputter and this section look and feels terrible to the touch, its very rough and tou can see hundreds of tiny raised droplets.

This is why I say that its beyond orange peel. Orang peel tome is like hundreds of tiny potholes.

This is more like hundreds of rain drops staked ontop one another.

I wonder if it can be wetsanded?View attachment 221110
Click to expand...
Spraymax 2K clear can indeed be wet sanded like a bandit! About 24 hours cure time is all it needs. I gave mine 48 because of other things going on, but it came out great after having runs, sags, orange peel and a gnat dead center in a panel. As long as you don't go through it, it buffs out in the end beautiful.
WP_20181206_14_57_47_Pro.jpg
 
Look at the up close photo? What do you think happened here?

I once painted a car with a a foam roller and it came out better than this.
 
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