trackin xv750

Bert Jan said:
I'm sorry? You talk alot but dont say much. I really dont understand what youre trying to say.

I think, Bert, that you are my favorite member of this forum.
 
haha oh man too funny.. bert i took some pictures last night with just a simple mock up to give you an idea of what im dealing with.. couple less washers, and a piece of thick flat stock running down to the lower caliper mount for added support.. essentially i can go even thicker with the flat stock like you were saying, which would eliminate even more washers, and drill it out to shake some weight. then once i have it mocked up well, get a piece of flat stock, weld on the upper bushing/spacer and see how we're doing at that point. thoughts? thanks
 

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Yes. But dont mod the lower hole. Keep
1cm away from it. Show picture before cutting the top off. Show where you are going to cut with dotted sharpie market or sum
 
Bert Jan said:
I'm sorry? You talk alot but dont say much. I really dont understand what youre trying to say.

Bert, yeah right. Point is the top mount will be fine!
 
MJPriceisright said:
yeah we have established most of the elements here.. but the big concern is the new angles of pressure applied, which will be different now that im bracing a drum with it. essentially it could twist and break.. definitely going to do some bracing using the large caliper mount hole. going to start with the crappy drawing i had made up.. steel brace running up to a bushing welded at the top, having two points bolted to help reduce the twist.

Obviously you've made your choice, but I can't see where the 'new angles of pressure' are coming from. The drum is only subject to same rotational forces as a disc brake would be.
 
Karlloss said:
Obviously you've made your choice, but I can't see where the 'new angles of pressure' are coming from. The drum is only subject to same rotational forces as a disc brake would be.

That's not the case, though - using those mounting points introduces a new lever in between the drum stay and the caliper mount, at a sharp angle.
 
Rich Ard said:
That's not the case, though - using those mounting points introduces a new lever in between the drum stay and the caliper mount, at a sharp angle.

I hear what you're saying but I don't agree, the distance between the drum anchor arm and the caliper mounting hole is minimal, I don't see a sharp angle in the pictures? Look back at the locating lug on old drum brakes, nothing more than a small lug on the side of the fork tube.

It's all irrelevant anyway as the decision is made.
 
Karlloss said:
Bert, yeah right. Point is the top mount will be fine!

No its not. Do your homework instead of giving false, potentionaly hazardous information.

For instance, the calipers that used to be on those forks were held secure with 2 bolts and so, the force was divided over the 2 mount holes. I can name a dozen other reasons, but point is youre wrong.
 
Bert Jan said:
No its not. Do your homework instead of giving false, potentionaly hazardous information.

For instance, the calipers that used to be on those forks were held secure with 2 bolts and so, the force was divided over the 2 mount holes. I can name a dozen other reasons, but point is youre wrong.

I did my homework thanks. Does it matter now as the decision is made.

Your opinion is exactly that..yours....and you know what they say about opinions.

I guess my qualifications in mechanical engineering are potentionaly hazardous information ;)
 
Karlloss said:
I did my homework thanks. Does it matter now as the decision is made.

Your opinion is exactly that..yours....and you know what they say about opinions.

I guess my qualifications in mechanical engineering are potentionaly hazardous information ;)

So, where's your build thread? Qualifications aint shit, experience is what counts.
 
Bert Jan said:
A hollow pipe is stronger than a massive one with the same diameter for the same reason.
With all due respect, this is a myth that needs to be dispelled. For any given diameter of tube, the strength of the tube will increase as the wall thickness of the tube increases, all the way to the point where the tube becomes a solid rod.

Here's a simple online calculator that calculates the deflection and stress in square and round rods and tubes. Plug some numbers in and compare.
http://www.botlanta.org/converters/dale-calc/bending.html

CC
 
CCRider said:
With all due respect, this is a myth that needs to be dispelled. For any given diameter of tube, the strength of the tube will increase as the wall thickness of the tube increases, all the way to the point where the tube becomes a solid rod.

Here's a simple online calculator that calculates the deflection and stress in square and round rods and tubes. Plug some numbers in and compare.
http://www.botlanta.org/converters/dale-calc/bending.html

CC

Wow, nice one! did not know that site. live and learn ;)
 
BOOM!

"experience is what counts"...and a degree....or maybe just an online calculator for beam strength...

::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
 
Come on guys. Enough of the BS and smart ass humor. It's not helping.

The point being made about a large diameter thin wall tube may not have been explained in perfect textbook English, but fact remains that for a given mass of material a thin wall large diameter steel tube is stronger than a smaller diameter tube with thicker walls of the same mass of the same material.

Using that on line calculator, what deflection do you calculate for that application assuming the brakes actually work to slow the bike? I'm too lazy to work out the actual forces, but the data I used came back as exceeding the material strength. If someone would like to work through the forces as it's designed now for say a 1g stop and add say 50% MOS then we'll all know if it's a problem or not.

This is not a place for uninformed opinions (this thread - at least this aspect of it) it's a place for caution and calculations and not bravado. IMHO. The issue here is placing cast aluminum in a bending (cantilever) mode and it's not very good for that.

If someone would care to work through the data, I'd be very interested to see the answer so that the builder can make a decision based on facts and not our opinions.
 
Don't make me pull this forum over and slap you, you argumentative fucking children.
The OE caliper bolts to that mount, ALL for force during braking is applied not between the mounting holes but below the mounting holes because the fucking caliper creates the other portion of the structure acting like a brace between them. That OE cast mount will withstand the huge force generated by the giant goddamned disc, there's no way in your girlfriend's personal hell that anemic boat anchor of a REAR drum will do anything to stress it.

Nothing.

It simply won't have the power. Not with fresh ferodo liners on the shoes much less the crap cruiser brake organic shit that's on it now. Simply won't. You monkey's are so busy comparing your internet winkies that you can't be bothered to see the truth. Grow the fuck up and quit clogging up the thread huh? You made your points individually and how you're just fucking for everyone else to watch. Seriously....pull your heads out.

Teazer and CC:
...give up, science, scientific method nor cognitive analysis are going to bring anything to bear here. Make some popcorn and enjoy the carnage.

MJPriceisright:
I applaud your free thinking but Teazer is right. That brake setup is only going to be good for parking lot speeds and stopping it from rolling down your driveway. Again, good on ya for thinking outside the box though this rear wheel boat anchor up front conversion is pretty goofy, nothing like taking one heavy wheel with marginal brakes off and replacing it with another....heavier one with even worse braking ability. It's just a terrible solution. I didn't bother to look at what SIZE rim you are using, if it's the 16" then you can add shite all for tires to the list of drawbacks. Sorry mate, don't mean to come off harsh toward you but you should reconsider.
 
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