trackin xv750

We happen to be about an hour away from one another - if you're in the area too, bring it on down!
 
Sounds good, I can come up with half a naked woman. Photog is going to need to have a strong stomach, though.
 
so on a serious note, i just got the bushings for the front axle to work in the forks, but i need to get the allballs conversion here soon. so i was looking at the chart and it has a bunch of different width specs.. are they talking about the height of the inner bearing race? the ID and OD are all the same. i called them a couple weeks ago, and i believe thats what they were referring to, i was going to call again today to double check, and now i cant find their number anywhere on their website? anybody wanna shed some light on this?
 
Just to jump in here, I agree with many that the front sls brake will be inadequate to the point of being dangerous. However, I would look for the brake backing plate from a Yamaha that has a DLS brake that is the same diameter as the stock XV rear. I would look at an R5/DS7 or earlier YM1, YR1 etc. Maybe even the RD125 or RD200. Measure the ID of the rear drum and match it up with some Yamaha fronts.
 
Hey if you guys keep pestering me, I'll go search in the store room for my XV920RH (chaindrive) rear wheel and offer up a YR1 backing plate to see if it works - your homework is to find out whether the shaft drive and chaindrive have the same rear brake shoes and advise me.
The YDS3 and variants, YR1/2/3 all used the same front brake. I'd have to check my RD200 brake but I think its a little narrower shoe but possibly the same dia. Not the RD125.
The R5 had a left side front brake backing plate, so using it on the right hand side would give you a double trailing shoe front brake, which would surely rate up there with other dumb inventions like seeing eye pitbulls, etc.
The YDS3 / YR's used a 17mm axle, so some machining required?
I also have a partially completed DLS rear brake conversion for one of my 350's, using a front brake panel. Some of these old bikes need all the brake they can get.
Neat project.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass
 
bike bandit numbers are not matching up for the rear brake shoes. any other ideas on DLS front drum specs somewhere? should i look into trying to find a front brake setup and see if it will tuck inside my wheel?
 
Get out your calipers and measure the ID of your current drum. Then, take a look at this and see if it helps. http://www.eurospares.com/drumbrak.htm SLS brake shoes are different than DLS shoes even though they may have the same diameter. The ends of the so either pivot on a fixed point so are rounded or have a pivot hole or they are flat on the end that is spread by the brake cam. DLS shoes are flat on both ends.
 
pacomotorstuff said:
Hey if you guys keep pestering me, I'll go search in the store room for my XV920RH (chaindrive) rear wheel and offer up a YR1 backing plate to see if it works - your homework is to find out whether the shaft drive and chaindrive have the same rear brake shoes and advise me.
The YDS3 and variants, YR1/2/3 all used the same front brake. I'd have to check my RD200 brake but I think its a little narrower shoe but possibly the same dia. Not the RD125.
The R5 had a left side front brake backing plate, so using it on the right hand side would give you a double trailing shoe front brake, which would surely rate up there with other dumb inventions like seeing eye pitbulls, etc.
The YDS3 / YR's used a 17mm axle, so some machining required?
I also have a partially completed DLS rear brake conversion for one of my 350's, using a front brake panel. Some of these old bikes need all the brake they can get.
Neat project.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass

Never mind the rear wheel Pat - get the bloody bike back out and on the stocks !!! I can't wait to see the finished article. especially with that Duke inspired tank [ Mojave, what Mojave ].
 
ex119x said:
Get out your calipers and measure the ID of your current drum. Then, take a look at this and see if it helps. http://www.eurospares.com/drumbrak.htm SLS brake shoes are different than DLS shoes even though they may have the same diameter. The ends of the so either pivot on a fixed point so are rounded or have a pivot hole or they are flat on the end that is spread by the brake cam. DLS shoes are flat on both ends.

alright ill look into it. thanks for the great reference page.
 
well, good news is my all balls conversion came in, should work fine. the bad news is, i was removing the rear wheel, bumped into the bike and it fell over.. cause im an idiot. dented the tank, cracked the clutch cover and bent one of the allen bolts, which thus also stripped the threads.. so now the allen bolt is removed, and all the oil drained from the bottom of the case cover.. sweeet. two steps forward, one step back. should have some time sunday to get the front forks and triples painted.
 
MJPriceisright said:
well, good news is my all balls conversion came in, should work fine. the bad news is, i was removing the rear wheel, bumped into the bike and it fell over.. cause im an idiot. dented the tank, cracked the clutch cover and bent one of the allen bolts, which thus also stripped the threads.. so now the allen bolt is removed, and all the oil drained from the bottom of the case cover.. sweeet. two steps forward, one step back. should have some time sunday to get the front forks and triples painted.

Ouch - that hurts ........................
 
ok time for a quick update, been super busy lately so I haven't had much time in the garage, but I did manage to get the wheels painted, and the front forks as well. I used sandable primer on the wheels finishing with VHT epoxy wheel paint. for the forks I just cleaned them up real nice and went straight to the VHT finish coat. paint went on really nice, I was super impressed. just need to get the lower triple cleaned up and painted, and finish the upper clamp, (drill holes for bar risers) and then throw some paint on it. should have the bike as a roller next week.
 

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