Montreal Manchild with an '81 Honda CB750K

Now need to learn how to fill then front brake assembly with brake fluid. Watched a few vids but think I need to watch a few more. Do I need a vacuum pump? Or can I do it with tools I have lying around in the garage?


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I use a syringe (50CC) and a 6" length of clear tube. You can suck the fluid through the bleed nipple, push it back up....or both 8)


Easiest way by far IMO but it takes a bit of practice.
 
Honestly, if you're patient you can just fill the reservoir and pump the lever until it almost totally drains. Refill and repeat until the reservoir no longer empties, and bubbles stop rising to the surface.
 
hillsy said:
I use a syringe (50CC) and a 6" length of clear tube. You can suck the fluid through the bleed nipple, push it back up....or both 8)


Easiest way by far IMO but it takes a bit of practice.

+1 on this, I used to have severe bleed trauma until I heard about the syringe method, I go for the pump it in from the caliper end and it pushes all the air out as it rises thru the lines.
use the draw through method if you're flushing old fluid out of the lines, when clean fluid appears in the syringe, they're clean
 
spotty said:
+1 on this, I used to have severe bleed trauma until I heard about the syringe method, I go for the pump it in from the caliper end and it pushes all the air out as it rises thru the lines.
use the draw through method if you're flushing old fluid out of the lines, when clean fluid appears in the syringe, they're clean

+2 this is the trick. I use a syringe I got from the BBQ section of CT for marinating meat. It holds enough fluid to fill the caliper, lines and master without having to remove it and the needle holder is the exact size of the tubing you need to fit the bleed nipple. best 10 bucks I have spent for brake work.
 
Cool, syringe it is. Would this be the correct procedure?

1. Install caliper, brake line and master cylinder/brake lever
2. Hook up hose to bleeder valve and syringe filled with brake fluid
3. Open bleeder valve and inject fluid into system until it fills master cylinder
4. Close bleeder valve

Guessing I'll need to bleed the system too? What would be the best way of going about that?
 
Bleed, or do like I do and squeeze until air quits coming up. The fluid forces the air up.
 
The Jimbonaut said:
Cool, syringe it is. Would this be the correct procedure?

1. Install caliper, brake line and master cylinder/brake lever
2. Hook up hose to bleeder valve and syringe filled with brake fluid
3. Open bleeder valve and inject fluid into system until it fills master cylinder
4. Close bleeder valve

Guessing I'll need to bleed the system too?

This is the process and if done in one go no need to bleed, that's the beauty of it, it bleeds the air up and out as it fills the system. one thing, put the master cover on the cylinder lose so the air can escape but the fluid once it hits doesn't shoot in the air and rain down all over the shop. Ask me how I learned that LOL. If the syringe doesn't have enough volume to fill the system in one go. stop before empty and close bleeder, then re-fill, re-connect hose with no air and then open bleeder and proceed until full and you won't need to bleed at all.
 
Sweet, I'm on it. Gotta take the Sportster in to get the rear wheel replaced, then I'll be working on Rhonda's brakes


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If you are bleeding the system from dry then first take out the bleed nipples and wrap some plumbers / teflon tape around the threads. This will stop air going past the threads and coming out in the syringe if you vaccum out the fluid (which can make you think you still have air in the lines, when you dont).
 
hillsy said:
If you are bleeding the system from dry then first take out the bleed nipples and wrap some plumbers / teflon tape around the threads. This will stop air going past the threads and coming out in the syringe if you vaccum out the fluid (which can make you think you still have air in the lines, when you dont).

Making sure I understand correctly! Yes, my system is completely dry. I'm gonna hook everything up (master cylinder, lines and caliper), unscrew the nipple and wrap plumbers tape around the thread, then screw it back in (creating an air seal), connect the bleed nipple to the hose/syringe, and then start the process of injecting fluid into the system?

Once the system is full of fluid (I guess I'll know once the fluid level reaches a certain point in the master cylinder and no more air bubbles escape), I'll then have to remove the bleed nipple in order to remove the plumbers tape. Won't this cause fluid to leak, and air to enter the system?
 
Leave the tape, no need to remove. When you get the fluid to the full mark on the master just tighten the bleed nipple and test the brakes, you should be done.
 
There's a small lateral hole on the bleed nipple stem - make sure that isn't covered up with the tape, right?
 
The Jimbonaut said:
Making sure I understand correctly! Yes, my system is completely dry. I'm gonna hook everything up (master cylinder, lines and caliper), unscrew the nipple and wrap plumbers tape around the thread, then screw it back in (creating an air seal), connect the bleed nipple to the hose/syringe, and then start the process of injecting fluid into the system?

Once the system is full of fluid (I guess I'll know once the fluid level reaches a certain point in the master cylinder and no more air bubbles escape), I'll then have to remove the bleed nipple in order to remove the plumbers tape. Won't this cause fluid to leak, and air to enter the system?


As said, no need to remove the tape but you will need to draw the fluid back down the lines once the MC is full because there will still be air in the caliper (the bleed nipple is above where the line enters the caliper). It's no big drama - just push the fluid in, then draw it out, then push it back.....keep going for as long as you want until you are happy there's no more air. That's the beauty of the syringe compared to a MityVac - you can go back and forth and not waste any fluid.
 
Not waste any fluid?! Not if you know what you're doing - I got that shit e-vry-where. Did the syringe thing (worked a charm) but man I fucked it up getting there, brake fluid all over the shop. Hose came off the nipple half way through without me noticing so my snazzy paint job on the caliper is somewhat compromised (i.e. totalled) and system is full of air, but now when I pull the brake lever - for the first time since I've owned the bike - the front wheel stops. Stops! Holy momentum abbreviator - what a day!

Now need to bleed the whole thing to get the air out but will do what you say - hook up the syringe/hose again and pump in/pull out the fluid until, wait, when? Until I don't see any air bubbles pulling back into the syringe or bubbling out into the master cylinder? Yeah, that must be it. Should I take out the nipple and do the tape routine again? Sounds like a Saturday night...
 
Once you hook up the syringe to the bleed nipple you push / pull the fluid back and forth until you are sure there are no more bubbles coming out either end (syringe or MC).


Make sure you dont suck the MC dry as this brings air back into the lines.
 
Think I got the brakes sorted, both front and back. Need to test them fully but so far so good.

Working on some side covers -



- these will be riveted onto some leather bags I'm making to cover up the battery triangle below the seat. Liking how they're shaping up


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Getting pretty close now - waiting on the new seat and then I'm taking Rhonda out for a spin. Noticed I've got a small oil leak from the left crankcase cover. Dumb question maybe - how much oil is gonna pour out of that thing if I remove it while the bike is upright? If I get a friend to hold the bike pitched over to the right will I then be ok to remove the cover? Or do I have to drain all the oil first?

I'm guessing the oil leak is due to a sketchy gasket, but is there anything else I should be looking out for?
 
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