CB360 - Clean and simple

tnum

Been Around the Block
Just picked up a CB360 off craigslist!

I have always loved these older, small displacement Honda's and jumped on the chance to build one.

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And in it's new home getting acquainted.

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My plans so far are to do a simple, super clean, minimalistic brat/cafe type style. Step 1 being remove that crazy seat thing.

I tend to start projects and get too busy to finish them so hopefully this will keep me going - also I'm new on the forum so hey. 8)
 
Damn, must have been a good buy :p
Supply is low while demand is rocketing over here, bit envious :p

And am I wrong, or did the previous owner really fitted chopper footrests on that bike? :eek:
 
japstar said:
Damn, must have been a good buy :p
Supply is low while demand is rocketing over here, bit envious :p

And am I wrong, or did the previous owner really fitted chopper footrests on that bike? :eek:

It was a deal I couldn't pass up ;D

You're not wrong and that's the other first thing to go..
 
Got started on the tear down process... Lots of stuff coming off, hopefully not as much going back on.

Especially this:
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I've also been debating if I want to rebuild the stock forks or upgrade to modern forks (usd of course) and I found my excuse to upgrade ::)

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Ordered some GSXR forks and a seat so I can start getting an idea of the stance and such before I start cutting.

In the mean time I pulled the motor and the rest of the stuff off the frame.

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Inside looks super clean! :p
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Waiting on parts to come in I started to clean up the carbs - and ordered the carb rebuild kits.

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japstar said:
Damn, that's a clean carb 8)

How are you cleaning them?

Thanks!

Xandah said:
Did you just dunk them in evaporust?

It's a combination of soaking it in carb cleaner, then scrubbing it with a tooth brush, then degreasing it in the HF sonic cleaner, then scrubbing it with a Brillo pad, and finally rinsing and blasting all the ports with compressed air, and then repeating as necessary.
 
While I'm waiting for the carb kits, I started taking some more pieces off the engine.

It didn't have a starter on it when I got it and I don't plan on putting one back on so I need to get that clutch out of there.
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I've seen some stuff that oil tends to be a problem on the top end for these engines - anyone have any suggestions to make sure I don't have problems?
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Didn't come with a ignition cover so I'll have to order one of those.. and this is gross so I think I see electronic ignition in the future as well.
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This bike is a weird combination of well maintained (and possibly rebuilt before) and neglected.
 
tnum said:
I've seen some stuff that oil tends to be a problem on the top end for these engines - anyone have any suggestions to make sure I don't have problems?

install a CJ360 oil pickup and enlarge 2 oil holes in top case by 1/32"

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+1 on the CJ oil pickup. The stock pickup can suck air while idling on the kickstand.

There is also a mod to open up the oil transfer piece on the RH cover to increase flow out of the oil filter. Edit for pics. Heres a picture of mine, if you look through PJs thread I believe you can open them up a bit more than I have here.

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A buddy of mine fitted external steel braided lines to feed the top end on his CB360.
I could ask for more info if you wish?
 
I'll definitely do the CJ oil pickup.

Basically it doesn't look like there's top end damage at this point and I don't intend to do any highway travel, racing, or otherwise sustained high RPMs... I'm more interested in the things that would be silly not to do while I'm at this point.

japstar said:
A buddy of mine fitted external steel braided lines to feed the top end on his CB360.
I could ask for more info if you wish?

Just out of curiosity I'd like to see this if you can get the info.
 
He started with some info of CrazyPJ

My buddy than altered the idea a little bit.
He disconnected to centrifugal filter, he rerouted the inlet to a oil filter and oil cooler, and connected the outlet of the cooler to the oil rail just behind the cilinder in the carter. Than he connected another piping to that rail, that feeds into the camshaft. He drilled a long channel in the camshaft, en drilled radial holes in the camshaft where needed. So in the end, the oil bypasses the centrifugal filter, goes trough a normal filter, gets cooled, and gets forced into the camshaft bearing and lobe contacts trhought the camshaft itself, ensuring lubrication at all times.

(The pics with the steel braided lines are not those of my friend, can't show any pcitures of his engine block because he is not finished yet)
 

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I also did this...Clutch cooling.

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Logans external oil system w external oil pump, copper tube acts as a cooler. this system feeds drilled cam shaft. This system does not rely solely on the internal pump, it supplements.

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Pics from PJs threads, how he drilled his cam shaft. I assume Logan did something similar.

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That's some great info! - I'll know more once I pull the cam off but I think a lot of that stuff is a little more than I'm looking to do or will need to do, especially with the goal of an around town cruiser.

I'll leave the go fast, high rev stuff for my other bike.

Definitely the CJ pickup and probably opening up the oil passages though.

trek97 said:
But w all that said, IMO the CJ pickup is the single most important thing you should do. My bike has done pretty well.

A couple vids I shot last weekend. Riding my 360.

Looks great!

Anything special I need to watch out for when I take the starter clutch off? Can the timing get upset?
 
And new parts!!

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rough mock up...
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Ordered the front end conversion bearings from allballs, still have to figure out what I'm going to do with the axle/front wheel.

The front axle is 15mm on the wheel/CB360 and 25mm on the 1996-1999 GSXR750 front end :eek:

I've looked at the Harley wheels because I'd like to keep the laced wheels but they are expensive and will still need some work to get everything to fit together. Plus I like the idea of 18" front/rear rather than 19" front/18" rear. The conversion hub for the CB360 rim with a laced GSXR hub is also an option but just as expensive as a new wheel and I'd have to re-lace the wheel and still do some custom work to get it all to fit correctly with the spacing and such.

So at this point I'm leaning toward a custom axle and to try to retain the use of the cable speedo.
 
tnum said:
Anything special I need to watch out for when I take the starter clutch off? Can the timing get upset?

You need a tool to pull the generator rotor with an impact. I grabbed the one at Common Motor (http://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb-rotor-puller). Be sure not to lose the woodruff key on the crankshaft (once the rotor is off) as it prevents the rotor from moving after you reinstall it. If you do misplace it they are available at Honda dealers (ask me how I know ). You will want to go through the general tune up procedure including timing after working on the motor anyways.


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