"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! or TUFF.....no more bomb!

This is ever so useful. Like others, I have just finished spraying my bike with cans and would definitely have benefitted from this first.

One comment, from experience, though. Read the label on the can carefully. I laquered one of my side panels, left it a day and recoated it. When it had dried, I had a beautifully crazed surface. When I read the small print, it stated that this laquer must not be overcoated after one hour of spraying. This was a petrol-proof lacquer, so I am not sure whether that makes a difference.

I like my final finish, though.

Regards.
 
i've got access to a proper spray rig for the weekend so i'm gonna try that instead of rattlecanning... but as a guide, how many cans would you need to rattle a frame up?
i'm also trying to sort out how much paint i need to buy to do my frame and rims :)
 
realy to be honest... that depends on what kind of paint you use... some atomize so fast and you loose a bunch while other shoot thick... what you shooting (paint)
 
WOW.. What a fantastic post....
I hope no one would object if I Sticky this thread...I dont want this one lost...
 
Something I think should be in here is some info on the aerosol can spray-on bedliner. Some folks do small stuff with it, like parts that need a more durable coat, and I've seen tanks, tails, and wheels done in the stuff. On my bike I've got the kick lever, shifter, fork legs(they were pitted and the rough texture covered that nicely), headlight bucket(for texture), blinkers (pitted slightly), my starter cover, my license plate bracket, and other things I'm forgetting.
As far as brands go the only two that I have experience with are plasticote spray on bedliner and rustoleum spray on bedliner. The plasticote will give you a firm, very rough textured coat. The rustoleum gives a smoother softer black, it also appears to be the more durable, but it doesn't quite have that rough tough bedliner look.
When you get ready to apply the bedliner the first thing you need to do is to prep the object for the spray. If you haven't properly prepped what you're spraying the bedliner will flake off in the near future. I usually take a wire wheel to the part first, ridding it of all rust, paint, etc. If the part is chrome I usually rough it up pretty good, but I don't spend the time to remove all of the chrome. I'm sure it's preferable to do this, but I haven't had problems painting the bedliner over chrome if it's roughed up really well. After this you clean the part thoroughly and suspend it somehow to spray it. I usually hang the parts with wire tied to my garage door and spray outward. With the plasticote it's good to spray on a light coat, then a slightly heavier coat, then wait until that coat starts to tack and do one more pretty good coat. When doing these coats you'll want to be somewhere between 12 and 18 inches away from the part using the same strokes you use when spray painting. After this last coat starts to tack, spray a lighter coat from about 20 to 30 inches back. This throws the rougher texture onto the part and gives it the tough look. The rustoleum is applied the same way, it just doesn't get as rough as the plasticote does. It's advantage though, is that it has some give. I believe that if you laid it on real thick it would self-heal from scratches, gouges and such. I always give the parts about 24 hours before I'll handle them. If the humidity is high it might take longer.
Now about taping a spot off and spraying bedliner: That sucks. The bedliner doesn't like to be taped. When you do tape it and paint it, make sure you either get the tape off very quickly or try to run an exacto down the tape line before or while pulling it (that would be pretty ballsy as you could easily scratch the surface under the bedliner). Normally after I tape things off for bedliner, I have to go back with a fine brush and clean up the lines. I just spray the bedliner onto a sheet of paper and dip the paint brush in that. The brush will be pretty fucked after this but can clean it some after it's dry and use it for this kind of thing again.
That concludes my knowledge on this subject, but hopefully it'll help someone. If anybody has anything to add, please do, like experience with other brands(I hear duracoat makes a fine bedliner), different techniques, questions that aren't covered, anything. I think this thread is a great place for folks to come and learn as much as possible. It could turn into a huge collective of knowledge on paint techniques you can pull off in your garage for very little money. And very little money is nice! :D
 
Nice post, very good info. I have often wondered about using the stuff but was unsure how it would work. Thanx for the time you invested.
 
Great post, very handy. But re gloss paint jobs, what do you do with stripes? Do you apply it with the majority colour, sanding it all together, or completely finish the majority colour, then start with the striping?
 
just remember with shaky can you must allow it to dry. i always wait at least 30 days before i cut and buff. enamel takes a long time to gas out and dry.
 
Hotel:
For stripes or painted on graphics you will need to complete the color coating all the way first, even the layer of clear at the end, then tape off after it has all cured and do your next color following all of the same steps in the color covering section on your second color (even the clearing again). Use an Exacto knife to cut the paint free from the taped line, be careful not to cut too deep, a little marking from the cut line is ok, due to the next steps. After removing tape, wet sand the entire object and prep for clear coating!

Hope that helps!

Noel:
Thank you for thinking so highly of my thread! I hope this is one that can continue to be helpful to many others who share our same passion!
 
my92:
Not sure you have to wait 30 days but the longer you can hold off the better! Enamel does take a while to cure and different climates can vary those times. if it is not cured well when you sand or buff, it will move the paint and ruin all of your work! So it is a good idea to wait as long as possible.

Baking is a good way to set the paint! Wait about 1 hour after your last spray coat then put the object into the oven at 250 degrees for about 2 hours then remove it and allow the rest of your cure time to elapse. I have not used this very often; the better half of me does not like the smell of baking paint in the house! If anyone else has, please share your experience and process! Beware of the better half of your life if you decide to try this, I am just warning you in advance!
 
Im confused about the wash prep. Body filler and primer are both porous so it would seem like a bad idea to get them wet with water. Wont both of these trap water against the metal?
 
Boom:
What you said could be true, but this is one of those catch 22 situations
When you sand body filler and putty it creates a fine powdery dust that gets trapped in those pores and settles all over your object, if you only tack prep, you may only move that dust around on your object and not remove it. If any of that is on the paint you are compromising the quality of your work. You could be compromising it by having water trapped in your body filler as well, but if you do all of the steps properly, you should have no problem. I have used this method many times with great success and no problems with “cancer rust” on items that I have painted and lived with for some time. With moister being under the paint, the major concern would be “cancer rust”. With the dust, your paint will not stick properly and may even get what I call the “pinhole effect” which is when you spray the object and it looks fine at first, but then develops small holes in the finish quickly. No matter how many times you go over it this just keeps happening!

Cheers
 
man I suck at body work! After the initial dusting I couldnt really see anything bad, but after my first 4 coats of primer there are def some shitty spots. Looks like more bondo is in my future!
 
here's what you can do with rattlecan and wetsanding...lots of wetsanding.

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There's a bit of bondo under this as well - I hid the badge mounts and a couple little dings with bondo and filler primer. Still needs a buffing out and a wax, but I gotta let it dry first.
 
something no one has mentioned yet which i think is crucial when using a spray bomb is that you should shake the cans for at least 10 minutes and SOAK the can with the cap on in the hottest tap water you can get for about 10-15 minutes.....you can even heat the water on the stove or in the microwave for a while if your tap doesn't get too hot. by soaking the cans in the hot water you raise the internal pressure of the can and get much better and even coats.
 
Thanks forcefan, that is a great point! I have used the method of warming the can in water and it works well, especially if it is cooler in the area you plan on srpaying. I live in south Alabama, so my cans are ussually warm enough! ;D Shaking the can vigorously for as long as posible is very important and I did fail to mention this earlier! Thanks again for the tips!
 
As far as self etching primer goes, you only need to make one or two coats right on top of the metal itself, after that you can switch to filler primer.

Self etching primer uses a chemical reaction bond with metal surfaces, some tend to think this creates a better prime coat than regular primer coating. I don't really feel this way, if you are doing good body work and starting with a properly preped item, I think it makes no difference. If you are using it on an old discolored metal or on some alloy, it could be a good idea to use self etching to assure a good bond.

Filler primer is much thicker in viscosity and can hide some of the imperfections in body filler and the transitions of body filler to metal. NOTICE: I said some imperfections and I mean very small imperfections, it will not cover up F ups in body work! I always use filler primer on body work!
 
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