Texas Two Step Taco

teazer said:
On a 160 Honda, we just machine the stock DYNA S rotor to fit over the crank end. You could also machine one from scratch and us the magnet from the Dyna rotor. It doesn't take much heat to eject the magnet. Then epoxy it into your new rotor
Thank you! I have a few spare dyna crank triggers because of you!


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Coker Tires hooked us up
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Texasstar said:
Called M and H Tires technical support about their drag slick and I was wrong they are not speed rated. They told me that their drag tires are NOT speed rated but that they were the inventor of the Drag tire and we are good on a 1/8th or 1/4 mile....however they are not recommended for Bonneville. Mickey Thompson says that their non speed rated tires are good up to 85mph.


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I run a MT drag slick on the front of the landspeed bike. It is good for 200 mph.

The bike is looking good, Patrick and Zeke.
 
Makr said:
I run a MT drag slick on the front of the landspeed bike. It is good for 200 mph.

The bike is looking good, Patrick and Zeke.
Thanks Mark!


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Cross reference for Femsa Magnetos and Femsa electronic ignition. The Bultaco Bandido shared the same flywheel as the Bultaco Go Kart. It weighs just over two pounds according to my eBay vendor. Will check it. This looks like the lightest flywheel Bultaco made. I was able to get one off of eBay because of this chart. Will be here later this week. It looks like all the Magneto start with VAR and the Electronic ignition starts with a G...Lynn Mobley is sending us a Pursang 250 Flywheel-1
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LT we are making everything lighter...front/rear tire and wheel are lighter...6 lbs off the rotational mass.
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Looks almost the same as our new toy....If I ever finish it.... ???
 

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Thanks. Nah. It's just an RD350 with TZ700 top end and 400 transmission and Banshee clutch. That is easy compared to what you are doing. Seriously. you are going where not many have gone before. Very Star Trek. :)
 
teazer said:
Thanks. Nah. It's just an RD350 with TZ700 top end and 400 transmission and Banshee clutch. That is easy compared to what you are doing. Seriously. you are going where not many have gone before. Very Star Trek. :)
We need to lower it more. Two goals. Have fun and let’s see what we can build with what we have not what we want. It is NOT slammed as far as possible in this picture. Nothing on the Taco frame is symmetrical. They cared about the swing arm and the steering head. We need a full chromoly chassis or docol8?

We are going to plumb the swing arm for air and get rid of the bottle. Looks like maybe 3 passes with the 16 oz bottle. See why you are CO2 with a reg.

Let’s hope the final frontier is not a seized piston. Zeke has already been there...he use to follow us on Sundays. Hobbs on his GS, I was on the Super 3, and Zeke on the Taco trying to keep up. Zeke wound it out so much he would seize the engine and then save it by pulling in the clutch and letting it cool down. The Bull is very resilient and that is the final frontier we want to avoid and the reason the TSS was water cooled. However BB is air cooled so there is hope. The key is only to run it for 8 seconds ;).

I learned a HUGE lesson on our Ducati with the spark plug heat range. NGK had their plug heat rating wrong online and this engine came from the builder with the wrong heat range plug. It started fine and we would go ride for an hour and it did NOT want to start. The spark plug gap was also wrong. The small things.

I have learned that just because it says RD350 on the side doesn’t mean it is RD350 inside. Lol. However you are water cooled have the correct head angle, tires, and your swing arm...geeze and if you have titanium expansion chambers they would be painted black. No need to advertise. The other team says, “we just got beat by an RD350 lol”


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Pipes are steel. I have enough trouble welding that. Black paint is to disguise the crappy welds. :-\ I have no idea where to start with Ti. There are a few Ti bolts on the bike though and a modified GSXR alloy steering stem pressed into a modified RD bottom triple clamp. Front caliper is an aluminum replica with custom aluminum pistons hiding inside.

On the Taco, you should be good with air cooling for short runs. Try to avoid firing it up until you are ready to race ie push it to the line - warm it up a little before and then leave it until the run. Jet it a jet size rich and use lots of oil in the pre-mix.

I usually start with the coldest plugs I can get and then I set ignition timing and first pass at jetting. Then if there is no evidence of the side or center electrodes overheating, start going one heat range cooler at a time until you see the right heat signature.

Not sure what carb you plan on running but keep in mind that a 4 stroke type emulsion tube runs leaner than a 2 stroke type as revs rise. And taller spray bar also runs richer at the top end than a low spray bar - according to Mikuni.

Chrome moly. What's that? No. the back end of that frame is all heavy Japanese steel. No ThyssenKrupp 4130 here. Nothing to see here. Move along.

Try Onlinemetals.com for 4130 tube. Really thin wall cracks easily and doesn't like to be bent, so choose a reasonable wall thickness. And what I think is reasonable and what you are comfortable may not be the same but it will be a lot less that a street frame for a chopper might be. Weight - or lack thereof is important in acceleration. Not an issue for LSR racing but accelerating mass takes more energy, so for a given amount of energy, the lower the mass, the more acceleration is available.

Co2 bottles are lighter but a PIA to get refilled, so build a refill station if you get serious. Otherwise, buy them prefilled. https://www.sodamod.com/4oz-Tank-Pre-Filled-with-Beverage-Grade-CO2-p/co2_4ozfilledwco2.htm A 9 ounce bottle is easier to fill and is easy to hide, but with regulator, it's about as heavy as a standard air bottle. What were we saying about compromises and optimization?

And if speed at the deep end isn't much over 80, you can use cheap skinny moped tires with low rolling resistance. And remove the bearing seals at least on the inside of the wheel bearings and machine up alloy wheel bearing spacers but add 10 thou to the length compared to steel.
 
teazer said:
Pipes are steel. I have enough trouble welding that. Black paint is to disguise the crappy welds. :-\ I have no idea where to start with Ti. There are a few Ti bolts on the bike though and a modified GSXR alloy steering stem pressed into a modified RD bottom triple clamp. Front caliper is an aluminum replica with custom aluminum pistons hiding inside.

On the Taco, you should be good with air cooling for short runs. Try to avoid firing it up until you are ready to race ie push it to the line - warm it up a little before and then leave it until the run. Jet it a jet size rich and use lots of oil in the pre-mix.

I usually start with the coldest plugs I can get and then I set ignition timing and first pass at jetting. Then if there is no evidence of the side or center electrodes overheating, start going one heat range cooler at a time until you see the right heat signature.

Not sure what carb you plan on running but keep in mind that a 4 stroke type emulsion tube runs leaner than a 2 stroke type as revs rise. And taller spray bar also runs richer at the top end than a low spray bar - according to Mikuni.

Chrome moly. What's that? No. the back end of that frame is all heavy Japanese steel. No ThyssenKrupp 4130 here. Nothing to see here. Move along.

Try Onlinemetals.com for 4130 tube. Really thin wall cracks easily and doesn't like to be bent, so choose a reasonable wall thickness. And what I think is reasonable and what you are comfortable may not be the same but it will be a lot less that a street frame for a chopper might be. Weight - or lack thereof is important in acceleration. Not an issue for LSR racing but accelerating mass takes more energy, so for a given amount of energy, the lower the mass, the more acceleration is available.

Co2 bottles are lighter but a PIA to get refilled, so build a refill station if you get serious. Otherwise, buy them prefilled. https://www.sodamod.com/4oz-Tank-Pre-Filled-with-Beverage-Grade-CO2-p/co2_4ozfilledwco2.htm A 9 ounce bottle is easier to fill and is easy to hide, but with regulator, it's about as heavy as a standard air bottle. What were we saying about compromises and optimization?

And if speed at the deep end isn't much over 80, you can use cheap skinny moped tires with low rolling resistance. And remove the bearing seals at least on the inside of the wheel bearings and machine up alloy wheel bearing spacers but add 10 thou to the length compared to steel.
Can we talk about wheelie bars? Picking up our online metals moly (tk) later...All the cool kids don’t run them but we are.


Top tubes 3/4” .035 and bottom 5/8” .035 4130.


I here the heim joint threads are the weekest link? Any thoughts?


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Threads are the weak point because they are sharp i.e. stress raisers, but if the thread is into an insert (sleeve nut) that's welded into the tubes, they should not be a problem. Just do not have a sudden abrupt change of section at the end on the insert.
 
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