Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

XS750AU said:
Ryan
Good progress. I found it easier to disassemble with the forks in the bike. The triple clamps hold the forks really well, otherwise you need a strong vice with good soft faces (preferable with tube diameter hole to match tubes). I used a big screw driver to push down on the cap, while trying to lever out the retainer ring with the other hand - not easy. Impossible to do if you do not have a solid way to hold the fork tube (triple clamp or vice). Once you have done the first, it is much easier for the next.
Good luck
Tim
Click to expand...

thanks tim for your quick answer!
fortunately I have good vice grips with lead faces...what kind of oil did you use and how many ccs?

cheers
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

XS750AU said:
Ryan
Good progress. I found it easier to disassemble with the forks in the bike. The triple clamps hold the forks really well, otherwise you need a strong vice with good soft faces (preferable with tube diameter hole to match tubes). I used a big screw driver to push down on the cap, while trying to lever out the retainer ring with the other hand - not easy. Impossible to do if you do not have a solid way to hold the fork tube (triple clamp or vice). Once you have done the first, it is much easier for the next.
Good luck
Tim
Click to expand...
They are also A Lot easier to get out if you dont have spring preload at maximum like in the pics ;)
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Data i guess you mean putting them in the vice grips horizontally would be best dont you?

Gesendet von meinem SM-A310F mit Tapatalk
 
Hi Ryan
No - the pre-load is adding tension on the internal spring making it more difficult to push the cap down.
 

Attachments

  • Preload.png
    Preload.png
    287.4 KB · Views: 931
Ryan Stecken said:
thanks tim for your quick answer!
fortunately I have good vice grips with lead faces...what kind of oil did you use and how many ccs?

cheers
Click to expand...

200cc of 20W fork oil - must be fork oil, not engine oil.
 
Both forks c8mpletely dissassembled...spring lenth is 49,4 cm...can I reuse them tim?

Gesendet von meinem SM-A310F mit Tapatalk
95d13ad1171af215d64e3be7f830edcc.jpg
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

The spec length is 504mm and yours are 494mm which is a 2% sag. If you weigh about 90kg you have more options than if you weigh 120kg! If you are on the heavy side get new springs. The other option is to put a 10mm spacer to take up the loss. Someone has retro fitted the preload adjusters onto your forks. Your bike did not have preload adjusters. You could just set max preload if you are 90kg or less.
Choice is yours, as is the budget.
Cheers
Tim

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

XS750AU said:
The spec length is 504mm and yours are 494mm which is a 2% sag. If you weigh about 90kg you have more options than if you weigh 120kg! If you are on the heavy side get new springs. The other option is to put a 10mm spacer to take up the loss. Someone has retro fitted the preload adjusters onto your forks. Your bike did not have preload adjusters. You could just set max preload if you are 90kg or less.
Choice is yours, as is the budget.
Cheers
Tim

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thanks man!I'm on a budget...so I will choose the max preload method.
Since I weight about 85 kgs I guess it will be ok

Gesendet von meinem SM-A310F mit Tapatalk
 
Can not argue with that, should be fine.
Later on if you find you do bottom out, it is very easy, now you know how, to pop the caps, pull out the old springs and put in new with the forks in the bike.
Cheers
Tim
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

XS750AU said:
The spec length is 504mm and yours are 494mm which is a 2% sag. If you weigh about 90kg you have more options than if you weigh 120kg! If you are on the heavy side get new springs. The other option is to put a 10mm spacer to take up the loss. Someone has retro fitted the preload adjusters onto your forks. Your bike did not have preload adjusters. You could just set max preload if you are 90kg or less.
Choice is yours, as is the budget.
Cheers
Tim

Sent from my GT-I9506 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Those are exactly the same preload adjusters that are in my forks.. are you sure? Mine is a standard 78 i think..
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

datadavid said:
Those are exactly the same preload adjusters that are in my forks.. are you sure? Mine is a standard 78 i think..
Click to expand...
Dave you are correct - the 78 was the E release which got the CDI ignition, lower middle gear ratio, higher compression ratio, hotter cams and adjustable forks. I thought Ryan's was a 1977 2D which is the same as my 750, but I could be wrong.
Tim
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

XS750AU said:
Dave you are correct - the 78 was the E release which got the CDI ignition, lower middle gear ratio, higher compression ratio, hotter cams and adjustable forks. I thought Ryan's was a 1977 2D which is the same as my 750, but I could be wrong.
Tim
Click to expand...

Hey guys! Long time no hear.

I´ve been busy with life and I´m still waiting for my "new" CDI box from Canada....takes about 1 month to austria...

As far the forks:

I have 2 XS´s.I decided to swap motor and shaft drive from my completely stock XS to my other XS (on which I serviced the forks with the adjustable tops).
I´m currently taking all the bits and pieces, cleaning them,painting them, blasting them one by one.

I have 2 motors both standard with the point igntion, the one i´m going to swap in on the frame has the CDI ignition of the 850.

I have a question for you guys: Did the cylinder valve cover change over the years? I have one in spare and want to scotch it but i dont want to invest time in something that won´t fit later...

thanks in advance!
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1405.jpg
    DSCN1405.jpg
    95.7 KB · Views: 232
Hi Ryan
Yes I have been distracted myself - fishing. Need to indulge while they are biting. I am riding the 750 to work tomorrow, just to keep the motivation up.
From my understanding the heads are interchangeable so I would assume the same for the valve cover. To be sure I would just try fitting to the intended engine first.
Good luck
Tim
 
Hey guys!

been busy with life, still waiting for that DARN ignition box from canada...
Meanwhile had some time to start "refreshing" parts and getting my workshop (its actually a really small room) in shape.I was just annoyed of losing tools all the time...


No news engine till now.But I wanted to share some eye candy with you guys!

Had some parts bead blasted and afterwards I used some scotch brite to get the finish I wanted, a little steel thingie on the dremel and I got into the corners which I couldnt reach with the scotch brite (red).

Next up will be completing the front end (forks are serviced).Need to renew the wheel bearings, new rubber (Heidenau K65) and paint the front wheel!

busy busy busy
 

Attachments

  • 20161113_164544.jpg
    20161113_164544.jpg
    971.9 KB · Views: 240
  • 20161114_115236.jpg
    20161114_115236.jpg
    936.2 KB · Views: 240
  • 20161114_115224.jpg
    20161114_115224.jpg
    922.2 KB · Views: 236
  • 20161114_115214.jpg
    20161114_115214.jpg
    1,001.5 KB · Views: 228
  • 20161113_012351.jpg
    20161113_012351.jpg
    944.6 KB · Views: 233
  • 20161112_224546.jpg
    20161112_224546.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 244
  • 20161112_224345.jpg
    20161112_224345.jpg
    852.4 KB · Views: 232
  • 20161112_223653.jpg
    20161112_223653.jpg
    805.9 KB · Views: 231
  • 20161110_181857.jpg
    20161110_181857.jpg
    877.5 KB · Views: 226
  • 20161110_181804.jpg
    20161110_181804.jpg
    935.1 KB · Views: 237
  • 20161112_192242.jpg
    20161112_192242.jpg
    834 KB · Views: 229
JadusMotorcycleParts said:
Looking good! I like the finish you got on the engine covers :D
Click to expand...

Thanks Jadus!If you need any details, let me know!

I have great news, the ignition box arrived and under the influence of a few beers I was able to "complete" my stock XS 750 back together.

She starts extremely well now, even cold, spark on all 3,carbs need synching no question but I´m relieved now.
Rear brake is bled and ready to go so I guess I will make a short testride the next weekend!

If the gearbox is ok, i will swap this motor and shaft over to my modified XS.

What kind of oil are you guys running?
I would go for the 15w40 mineral oil in the motor and 75w90 gl4 oil for shaft and middle section.

any tips for changing the oils.

I would let the motor run warm on the mainstand and in first gear, turn the motor of, drain the oils and refill with a new oil filter.is this ok?

thanks in advance!
 
Hi Ryan

For a standard oil change your process is correct.
On old bikes after draining the oil I always remove the sump and clean out all the build up of gunk (technical term for shit) that will have accumulated over the years! That is what I do anyway.
Cheers
Tim
 
XS750AU said:
Hi Ryan

For a standard oil change your process is correct.
On old bikes after draining the oil I always remove the sump and clean out all the build up of gunk (technical term for shit) that will have accumulated over the years! That is what I do anyway.
Cheers
Tim
Click to expand...

Thanks man for the info!Will do!

Another question: I ran into a strange problem: The XS with running motor moves forward even when the clutch is pulled in...I guess that my clutch can´t fully disengage.How would you go about?
I guess I will try to readjust the clutch cable on the lever...hope this will solve the problem.

Cheers
 
Hi Ryan

First remove all tension off the cable.
The main adjuster is down on the transmission. Where the cable ends down on the left hand side of the transmission there is a small (about 40mm diameter) black plastic cover.
Pop the cover off.
Under that is a 14mmAF lock nut with slotted screw projecting through it.
Just crack the lock nut undone.
With a blade screw driver, turn the screw in until it just bottoms.
Back the screw off 1/6th of a turn.
Tighten the 14mmAF lock nut.
Replace the plastic cover
Use the cable adjuster at the lever to get about 5mm of slack movement at the end of the lever.

If it is not OK after that = clutch repair. :'(
Good luck
Tim

PS - bloody good Snapper season so not much bike work being done!!!!! ;D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom