Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

The clunk sound is quite distinctive.

I sometimes even feel "vibration" of some gears clunking together when I shift the gears,what I read in another forum that there is a screw that holds the shifter cam (behind the clutch basket) that can come loose...I dont know If I want to go back into the clutch again...
 

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Let's have a listen on Friday, shall we? I suspect you just have to get used to the amount of mechanical noise your engine makes.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

der_nanno said:
Let's have a listen on Friday, shall we? I suspect you just have to get used to the amount of mechanical noise your engine makes.
Alright man!cant wait!

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I admit though, that the 850 you didn't take was probably the quietest Yam Triple I've ever heard... :p
(I shall fire mine up today or tomorrow just to have a valid comparison!)
 
Before I take anything apart I will check on my clutch actuation adjustment (under the plastic side cover).
The problem got worse since I swapped to higher bars ...the clutch cable will be swapped to a longer one so I guess this could cause the clutch to drag sometimes (too short clutch cable).

The gas cable is way too short and causes the bike to gas when I turn left or right the tightely :) pretty funny when you pull up to your friends and the bike revv´s up like hell when the bike is parked :D
 
So guys!

Great news on the XS front.

The "cracking" gears stopped after I readjusted the clutch actuation screw.One turn out and it got WAY better

Had my friend "Der Nanno" coming over redadjusting the valves ( they were set completely wrong), readjusting the ignition and syncing the carbs.Now the baby starts first kick even when the engine is cold.

Since I swapped to higher bars I had to order new bowdens for gas and clutch and currently waiting for them.
Bike is supercomfy now with the new bars.

I have the plan to ride with this bike to my Bachelorparty in Zagreb (Croatia) this summer, so it has to work properly or I will strand somewhere ::)

One thing I still need to do is dropping the needle clip, it looks like the bike is running a bit lean in the mid throttle area.
I already took the needles out but there is a plastic piece (maybe its a shim) in there which I cant really eyeball what to do with it.
Under the plastic piece there are still 2 notches to adjust the needle so maybe I just need to take that out...

What are your thoughts on these?
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Simply adjust the needle as you would on the RD, the plastic bobbin is just a retainer (of sorts) and will not affect jetting.

Cheers,
Greg
 
Running pods and 3-1 open MAC I had to richen the needle a notch from factory on the MKIIs. 132.5 was plenty of main on the big end with my 750 jug set.
 
Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

Garc said:
Running pods and 3-1 open MAC I had to richen the needle a notch from factory on the MKIIs. 132.5 was plenty of main on the big end with my 750 jug set.
Thanks garc!I'm runnin' different carbs on that bike from a Triumph Sprint 900...make quite a difference honestly to the old miks :)
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So guys,not a lot of time to wrench on the stock Xs750 the last days but I ride her nearly every day and I´m really happy with her. The rear brake master cylinder needs an overhaul, will sort that out in the course of the summer.

While I was busy ridind the XS 750 I started dissassembling the other motor I have in my XS cafe racer project.

The top end of the bike was just "stuck" on the bike, all the nuts and bolts were loose.
When I removed the engine from the frame I removed the oil sump, didn´t find any major damages or whatnot,gears seem to be in good condition.

The plan now is the break the engine open till I reach the crank, the PO told me that the crank was somehow not "in good condition".
First thing will be checking if the crank seats are stock or damaged or anything.


Did you guys measure your cranks with plastigauge?

Thanks
 
So guys!Long time no hear!

In the meantime I got married, had my honeymoon in Portugal and I try to ride my stock XS 750 as much as possible.Had not enough time to deal with the important things in life like bikes :).

The stock 750 is reliable, even though I just explored that the the main stand mount on the frame is bent (and needs fixing in Winter) the bike starts and drives reliably, power is good and a nice difference to my rock-hard RD350.

While I was busy organising the marriage I managed however to remove the engine of the parts bike XS750 from the frame, my plan is to check this engine for my cafe -racer project.
I already ordered parts for this engine (gaskets etc.).I also ordered a "new" kardan drive (the old one had a huge crack where it is mounted on the swingarm), also a electronic ignition set from the later 3L3 model and other bits and pieces that are missing on that motor...

The engine is now dissassembled down to the cylinder base, next aim is to open up the cases and check the crank if its in spec.
The PO told me that there is "something wrong with the crank" so I will check before I invest too much money and have a engine that runs poor.
My friend Der Nanno will help me with his Plastigauge to check the crank.

I also started to collect info and tools to refresh my later model cylinderhead....the cafe racer will have 825cc with this cylinder head and T300 carbs so I hope it will be a bit more lively than my stock 750 :)

How do you guys check your valve seats on your cylinder heads?I read one should buy new valves (one exhaust and one intake) and measure the side lash when inserted...

Thanks in advance!!
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Ryan Stecken said:
How do you guys check your valve seats on your cylinder heads?I read one should buy new valves (one exhaust and one intake) and measure the side lash when inserted...

Are we talking the valve seats or guides? With guides, you pull the valve out by about 10mm and then try to rock it back and forth. There should be next to no play on the inlet and minimally more on the exhaust.

If you want to check valve-face to valve-seat fitment, you blue them up (which is a fancy word for scribbling on them with a marker pen and then lap them in two or three turns. This will remove part of the paint, which is how you work out how wide the mating surface (i.e. where they touch) is.

With the valve train on the XS being what it is (operated via buckets with shims) there should be little to no wear on the guides for incredibly long periods. The valve seats are more dependant on correct valve lash and as such depend vastly on how well the PO has serviced the engine.

Cheers,
Greg
 
Congrats on the marriage man! Good you are back onto the important things in life though - bikes ;D

Loving the engine stand! Custom made by you? Also, how are these engines to man handle? Like have you been moving it around yourself with your arms or with a crane/hoist/winch? Cheers.
 
Not Ryan, but... quite easy to handle. If you're a bit of a hefty f*cker you can lift them alone, they are somearound 140-150 LBS so still within range of what a grown up should be able to carry around. ;)

(Seriously, I once had to lift a complete engine out of the frame, it is doable. But with a second person it's a quite bearable job.)
 
^what nanno said!I had the help of my big russian friend and we lifted it together out of the frame...the engine stand is from ebay,i think it was about 30 euros...if you want I can send you the link...

Thanks nanno for the info on the valve guides!

Had a bit of progress yesterdday,removed the pistons clutch and starter...next up splitting the cases :)
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Re: Project "walrus" Yam XS 750

I wouldnt think of lifting the complete engine out of the frame myself, a bit worn in the back from 15 years of steel work with cylinders off, no problem, and its easier getting them off while in the frame anyway.
 
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