Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

Shred_McGnar said:
Nothing better than a box of parts! I just ordered rearsets from Durgam_K! So stoked!

Good for you Shred!! I'm supposed to get an invoice soon for the rearsets. Hopefully Durgam_K won't run out! :(
 
ridesolo said:
At first glance your wiring diagram looks pretty good, except you are missing the brake light switch for the front brake. Since your braking should be done mostly with your front brake this is pretty important.

Good eye ridesolo. I knew it was missing this switch. I've mulled this around a little. Since I never apply just the front brake, it seems logical that one switch would suffice. But, it's always better to be safe, so a front brake light switch is probably prudent.
 
The factory marks NEED to be lined up for proper shoe adjustment so both shoes apply pressure to drum evenly and simultaneously.

heres a link to an old post I made in my cb360 info blog about this topic...keep scrolling down past all the hunting B.S. and the hot chicks...you'll find it.

http://www.hondabrat.com/2012_11_01_archive.html

marks2.jpg


marks1.jpg
 
trek97 said:
The factory marks NEED to be lined up for proper shoe adjustment so both shoes apply pressure to drum evenly and simultaneously.

Thanks Trek -
Good eye on the mismatch. I put these together for the photo, but will definitely align these when assembly time comes. Waiting on new wheel bearings for front and back, then I'll get things together properly.

I really like the look of drum brake housings. Just so mechanical in form and function.

Thanks for the link. Good info on wheel bearing replacement too.
 
Wangofree said:
Thanks Trek -

I really like the look of drum brake housings. Just so mechanical in form and function.

Same here. and once adjusted I believe I could lock up my front tire just the same as I could w any disc. :eek: Also, its not like Im racing this machine...so drum provides plenty of stopping power for me.
 
Wheel bearings showed up today. Now I can put off the wiring by working on the wheels. I think I'm going to have a love-hate relationship with the rewiring.

For now, cut out the seat pan, got it just so, and welded her in place.







My welding skill leaves a lot to be desired. All I have is a cheap HF stick welder, but it does the job.

 
I understand the whole weight thing.
But, Why on earth would you want to kickstart your bike? If I had to kick her every time, (especially while trouble shooting) this whole motorcycle thing would be a lot less fun. To me, the extra 10lbs + or - is worth it.
 
trek97 said:
I understand the whole weight thing.
But, Why on earth would you want to kickstart your bike? If I had to kick her every time, (especially while trouble shooting) this whole motorcycle thing would be a lot less fun. To me, the extra 10lbs + or - is worth it.

Well, being 60 years old, I may change my mind and go back to electric start if I have trouble with it starting. For now I like the idea of being "old school".
 
Thanks BL.

Still waiting on tank repair. Heading into KC for green paint tomorrow. I think I'll end up picking the color from paint chips. There are so many different types of "British Racing Green". Got my wheel bearings in so that's probably the next job.
 
On the rear wheel I stuck a couple drill bits in the holes of the collar, and used a short piece o pipe to turn it out. I saw a guy on here use bottom tap and cut threads for bolts in the holes...worked well also. Plus if you get me some good pics of the actual procedures...I would be delighted to post em on my blog. I didnt take time for any when I did mine.

Also, on the front. Once the new bearings are installed w the bushing centered snug between em. Insert the front axel. If it does not turn smoothly. Dont freak out. The bearings may not be fully seated. As little as 1-2/thousands can make the difference. Ensure bushing is center, Give em a couple more gentle taps, evenly on the outer race only. and try it again. For a minute I thought my new bearings were F'ed up. PJ came to my rescue w this info. thanks again PJ.
OR
If you hit em on the center race or seal...they may be F'ed up. Even still, dont Freak out...they will make more...all it takes is money.
 
trek97 said:
On the rear wheel I stuck a couple drill bits in the holes of the collar, and used a short piece o pipe to turn it out.. . if you get me some good pics of the actual procedures...I would be delighted to post em on my blog.

Sorry Trek, didn't photo document as well as you'd probably like. But, I did get the bearings out of the rear wheel and the old tire off. . .

Like Trek, I took a bar, measured for the spanner nut, and used some small bolts for leverage to undo it off the bearing.





Comes off clean and easy. I wonder if I can use that 38 year old grease that's in the bearing? Probably not.



The next step is to find a leather strap, bite down on it, find a large socket that fits over the outer race edge and just go freakin' "medieval" on the inset bearing. It took 1/2 hour of beating on it to get the other bearing out, and then I was able to punch out the original bearing that I was beating on.



Next up was removing the tire. Without enough tire irons I had to take drastic measures. The reciprocating saw made quick work of the bead.





This wheel is ugly, but salvageable Before I install new bearings it needs to be cleaned up and polished.



I'll work on the front wheel and install the new bearings for both wheels all at once.

I made it to KC this morning for tank/fender paint, and decided to go with what I would call "British Racing Green Metallic" - DuPont Green #263. I'm excited to see how it turns out. That's probably a couple of weeks away. Still planning on painting the frame Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Gloss Black. Sweet.

Mike
 
Wangofree said:
Comes off clean and easy. I wonder if I can use that 38 year old grease that's in the bearing? Probably not.

Mike

Wow thanks dude...any pics are better than none. Can I get your permission to lift em and post em on blog plz.
ALSO, Yes, thats a great idea. You can recycle that old grease...just pop the seals out of the new bearings by prying them w a small screwdriver, then use a torch to burn all that new icky grease out and push the chunky old stuff in.
OR use the old chunky grease to lube steering stem bearings.
It also works well as a topping for chili...with or without beans...your call.
Im always glad to help when I can.
 
TO be truthful, I've not even changed the bearings in my 360. It had 24k miles on it when I got it, has over 30k now. The wheels spin smoothly with no noise and the hubs stay cool.

Mater of fact I've done lots of bearings in my life that got cleaned and repacked just because a manual said it was time, regardless of how many miles they had on them. (Uncle SAM told me to) As long as the SEALS are good there is no real reason to mess with them. Once the seals start leaking then they will go out because the grease will leak out.
 
frogman said:
TO be truthful, I've not even changed the bearings in my 360. It had 24k miles on it when I got it, has over 30k now. The wheels spin smoothly with no noise and the hubs stay cool.

Mater of fact I've done lots of bearings in my life that got cleaned and repacked just because a manual said it was time, regardless of how many miles they had on them. (Uncle SAM told me to) As long as the SEALS are good there is no real reason to mess with them. Once the seals start leaking then they will go out because the grease will leak out.
Hey frogger I hope all is well with you...its been a while.
Anyway I pretty much agree w you...I rode mine for a year and a half on the original bearings. without issue. I changed mine simply cause I had them laying here and because I was looking for a project, my original brake shoes started squeaking, so whilst in there I changed em. however once I did open them up I am now glad I did. the old grease in mine was pretty contaminated and chunky.
 
All is well man I've been working and riding instead of posting HA. I just figured I would throw that out there for those that have questions. I hated working on army vehicles that never went anywhere and had perfect grease in bearings that did more sitting that moving.

Long as the wheel spins freely with no bumps or jerks and the seals aren't leaking then the grease is good, stuff will join cockroaches and Keith Richards in HELL. ;D
 
Wangofree said:
Yeah, I'm sure since I'm not planning on doing the Dakar Rally any time soon, http://www.dakar.com/index_DAKus.html, the old bearings would have been fine. But for $40 I have all new bearings and the experience under my belt. ;D
Thats the right attitude! And Im sure that after once around the Dakar, you would be a bearing expert.
 
While waiting for wheel bearings and the headset to freeze I decided to clean up the garage. Things get so scattered. It's nice to have an area with clean "finished" parts.

Yes, I shrink wrap my parts. I love shrink wrap! ;D



Time to install the tapered bearings in the headset:

Freezing the race and heating the frame helped the installation go smoothly. It did take a little "persuasion".



The All Balls bearings include a thin and thick washer to place under the bearing dust seal. I choose the thin washer for the best fit.



Nice fit.



Top bearing was a breeze, slips right on.



It's time to finish cleaning and polishing the rear wheel and then buy some Avon's! :D

Things are about to get really exciting.
 
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