NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
tnum said:Bought this today... oops :
Oh dear.....
tnum said:Bought this today... oops :
crazypj said:Crank and cylinder OK on it?
Big ends and main bearings may need doing, pretty normal and pretty simple. I could do full strip, new bearings in about 4 hrs when I was 'in practice (mid 80's 8) ) Probably take me a week nowadays ;D
crazypj said:If it burned a hole through piston you probably have 'shrapnel' in the main and big end bearings. Should clean out OK but is a PITA as the proper way to do it is a full engine strip. (done a ton of them over the years)
Sonreir said:Took me a minute to figure out you were talking about the RM and not the CB. I'm like, "That clutch is not correct at all!"
advCo said:Are you printing with PLA? I would be worried about the hollow part of the throttle tube crushing with those thin walls.
tnum said:Yeah, it's PLA - the printed tube is actually stronger than the new one, although more brittle. I can't crush it by squeezing it with my fingers though.
Here's a quick squeeze test in my first print (stopped 3/4 through for some reason) in the vice... a little cracking but it looks like it will hold up as much as it would need to. It will have the handlebar in it too which will give it a lot of support.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/x47iVMXbcJA
I figured I'll see how it goes and reprint it in ABS if need be. I have a spool on deck but didn't feel like changing the filament out.
advCo said:Cool. Looks solid. I was just wondering since I have ran into some issues before when printing thin walls with PLA. What program do you use for modeling?
3DogNate said:Have you tried printing PET yet? I did some test prints and had some of the strongest prints I've ever had...
irk said:Haha. You know you can get them in aluminum for just a few bucks. Or get them with a housing and everything for $8.
Sonreir™ said:I applaud your decision to reassemble the engine without glass beads present.