CJ360 build "finished", couple quick pics.

240trainee

240trainee

New Member
Ok, here's my bike, I'm horrible at taking pics, so I don't have much of building it, but here's more of less what it is

1976 CJ360T
9k miles
Flat Track seat
34 Ford tail light
Clip ons
Clip on head light bracket
Transverse mounted battery box
Frame tabs shaved
CL360 pipes modded and extended to fit CJ frame
Pod filters

Assorted small shit. Valves need adjusted, new plugs, bigger jets for the carbs, tuned, timing re-set, and whatev, but finally started it up last night and got a few pics, crappy, but they are what they are. A friend of mine is doing a photoshoot of it soon, so better pics to come. Never seen pics of a modded CJ before, so it's amusing just for the novelty I guess.

P1010111.jpg


P1010110.jpg


P1010115.jpg
 
From what I can see it looks pretty sweet!

Looking forward to the new pics. 8)
 
Yea, a friend of mine who is a photographer wants to do a shoot of it, so it's part of the plan.

I was just so stoked about it, hahahahaha, it actually works. Glass tail lights look amazing btw. Those pics do the bike no justice at all.
 
Damn, tried riding it today, for someone who has never ridden anything bigger than a moped before, it's a scary motherfucker.

Replaced the 110 main carb jets with 118s to try and compensate for the pipes and pod filters, still runs like ass. Definatly needs some tuning and playing with to get it right, but it should be fun.
 
110 to 118 seems like a big jump i am not to familiar with honda but going by my yammie when I upped the jets I did it in small stages and only needed one size up to compensate for open system. did the bike run rich or lean to begin with? biggest indicator
are you running pods which are not as free flowing as people think especially if you have the face of the carb mouth blocked.
if you pull off the pod is there opening around the mouth you need to cut away the rubber so those can breath, sometimes people forget about those little things

looking forward to some great pics see if your buddy can shot it in sepia, I always loved that brown coloring

mortikan
 
They are unifilters, and the 118 was the closest Jet that the local shop had, but we put the stocker back in.

Bigger problem is, the right carb is fucked up, we can't get it to regulate fuel correctly, it just dumps out of the drain. fucked with the floats and measured travel numerous times, and still nothing, so Gonna hit up ebay and try to get another set, and combine to make 2 working ones.

Pisses me off, might just go ride it and take some shots anyway, fuel drains go below the bike anyway, hahahahaha.
 
240trainee said:
Bigger problem is, the right carb is fucked up, we can't get it to regulate fuel correctly, it just dumps out of the drain.
Click to expand...

The overflow pipe inside the float bowl may have a crack in it, worth a look next time you have the bowl off.
 
Hmmmmm, thats worth a shot, because it didn't do that before, which is whats confusing. And it seems the floats are working, in some aspect, because it's not a constant stream of gas, which tells me there is some sort of "regulating" going on.
 
240trainee said:
Hmmmmm, thats worth a shot, because it didn't do that before, which is whats confusing. And it seems the floats are working, in some aspect, because it's not a constant stream of gas, which tells me there is some sort of "regulating" going on.
Click to expand...

Check the float needles and the seals. When the needle raises up to the correct height the flow should stop immediately and not even drip. Off means off and if they drip even just a little bit they will over a matter of hours over flow and or could leak fuel directly into that cylinder,which is very,very bad.

If that happens and fuel somehow gets past the rings then even worse problems will be forthcoming and having just your cylinder walls being washed down by raw fuel will be the least of your problems if you don't catch it and run the engine with a lot of fuel in the crank case.

You may need to replace these parts with new ones. Also make sure your float actually FLOATS and isn't getting fuel logged which could cause them to not rise up far enough to seat the needle that in turn shuts the flow off after the bowl is filled to it's proper height. This is hard to detect if the fuel bowl is mount up to the carb where you can't see what going on inside of it.

After almost losing a very expensive FZR1000 engine once due to a leaking float needle I now ALWAYS make it a habit of shutting the fuel off at the petcock even if it's a four stroke and even if it has a vacuum petcock. I don't take that risk anymore even thought SOME of the fuel(what's in the bowl/line) can still drain into a cylinder a little bit if something isn't right. At least it isn't ALL the fuel the cylinder will hold! :eek:
 
Well checked with the roomie who was also working on the carbs, swapped bowls, needles, and floats from one carb to the other, and checked all the things mentioned, and still it's the right carb that leaks, no matter what components are in it.

This sucks a big one.

and I always shut off the fuel petcock, let it cut off like that if I have a couple minutes.
 
After messing with the carbs on and off for the past couple months, I have come to the conclusion I need new carb(s)

Posted a WTB, hopefully I get some in the near future, and I can ride this beast.
 
dude, i would love to see pics of this thing in the light... i like those pipes.
 
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