LEAKY Tank - Help Needed

Kamn said:
and before the hair dryer you can push in a micro fibre towel to soak up the water, remove towel and blow dry it

Thanks man. Will do.

Any ideas about the petcock and cap hole during sealing?
 
See if you have a radiator shop near by and give them a call, if you have a body shop close you could walk in and ask also, welder shops will likely kick you to the curb.

If walking in take the tank, be ready to make the deal.
 
Depends on where you're at. I couldn't find any shop (welder, radiator etc) within 150 mile radius that would touch the tank.

When you seal it just block off the petcock with a chunk of metal and rubber seal, and plug the tank cap. Once you've gotten everything covered evenly inside, remove the plugs, drain all excess and let it cure for 4 days.
 
Yeah, I'm thinking that the seal will work fine. The hole is so small that it still had plenty of gas in the tank...from the mid-90s.
 
Critical that you run wire periodically in the crossover tubes, you don't want those plugged up!
After dumping excess, run wire in those, and prop at an angle so sealant doesn't drain into them

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Also, if you have a cross over tube (rubber hose that goes under the tank to connect the two sides) be sure to ream out the metal tubes before the sealer cures up. It is a bit tricky - I usually take a stranded copper wire - like 12 gauge - and hand twist it through the little pipes to clear them out. They often have a tight bend in them making them impossible to clean after the sealant cures.

And mix the baking soda in hot water in a container first. The hot water will enable a higher concentration than cold, and you want a solution where the soda is completely dissolved.
 
I'm done brazing in 2.5 minutes and riding in 10 :-X

Inside an improperly sealed tank... the tank that came with my CB750
 

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540Nova said:
Critical that you run wire periodically in the crossover tubes, you don't want those plugged up!
After dumping excess, run wire in those, and prop at an angle so sealant doesn't drain into them

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The only tubes I can think of would be from the carbs. But that doesn't make any sense. Could you clarify? Or do you have any pictures of what you're talking about?
 
At the back of your tank, on the bottom, are 2 L shaped tubes, which get connected by a rubber hose. They allow the fuel level to equalize between the two halves. I just read somewhere that Honda eliminated those in later years, perhaps your tank doesn't have them.


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Does anybody have any idea if this^ holds true for a 1983 Kawasaki LTD750? This is definitely the first I've heard of it but I'd rather not screw it up. Brazing sounds more and more like a better idea.
 
Also, it doesn't look like the 3 radiator shops in Charlotte work on tanks. Still waiting to hear back from one of those three though. Looks like I may have no other option. Hopefully there is no cross-tube!
 
This is what your tank would look like if it had a cross tube, just flip it over and look at the bottom.

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Well....that didn't work lol

There was still a good bit of rust caked on after using the phosphoric acid. I shook it around several times and after 25 min I poured the acid/water solution out. Then used a mixture of water and baking soda. Flushed it all out with water and noticed that there was still a good bit of rust. It had done the job well in a few areas, but ultimately did not do the job to completion.

Any ideas? Something I'm missing? My guess is that the ratio of water to acid was too much and the acid was simply over diluted. I'm going to try again. Is it true that I can use the same phosphoric prep&etch/water combo over again?
 
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