Cb360 Reassembly Help

Got the retainer in Friday along with an entire extra clutch actuator with all the correct pieces, ebay seller was very kind to send all the bits.

Got it installed, and adjusted. The new springs from barnett make the clutch pull super heavy (compared to my cb550 clutch), for anyone looking for heavier springs.

The only negative side to that is now I have clutch pop. But at least that is a step in the right direction and can be sorted out with enough patience.

Does anyone have a perfect way to definitively adjust out clutch pop? Or will I just have to find that perfect middle point?
 
If you haven't been checking this thread (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=72090.msg907172#msg907172) you should as it's ame problem your having. I've posted a lot of pictures to try and explain how things should be working
 
crazypj said:
If you haven't been checking this thread (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=72090.msg907172#msg907172) you should as it's ame problem your having. I've posted a lot of pictures to try and explain how things should be working


Was literally just reading that thread.
 
Have 'cover' adjuster backed all the way off, set cable so pointer lines up, fit cover and adjust screw so lift mechanism contacts push-rod.I'm pretty sure that's how it was done during assembly 8)
 
raptormeat I actually did not try it. But I did get it to adjust properly so no more pop for me thankfully. Just took about 45 minutes of sitting and really focusing on it ha!

Pj that is pretty much exactly what I did, it helped visualize where the adjustment actually was.

I don't know if anyone has looked at the original picture of how I the bike is, but since the seat was so low profile, I elected to lower the back of the tank for the purpose of making lines flow a little better and because with the original tank mount it looked goofy showing.
So what I did was heat the flange where the rubber originally went and bent it 90 degrees down. Took a simple piece of flat stock and drilled two holes and threaded them, then drilled two holes in the tank flange that is now bent and I took two screws that go through them and screw into the new mount.

It was kind of a good idea at the time, but I want something a little cooler and maybe more simple. How do most of you mount your fuel tanks?

I was thinking of using a similar concept, making the flange slightly larger and using one of the quicklatch hoodpins for cars. Thoughts?

Here is the link for what I am talking about
https://www.quik-latch.com/black-anodized-mini-quik-latch.html
 
Hi bud sorry to steal ya thunder but just put yozzer74 gs550 up for BOTM cos I was able to post the pics hope ya vote too bud its a cool looking ride for sure hope I get to see it in the flesh not too many miles from me
 
yorkie350 said:
Hi bud sorry to steal ya thunder but just put yozzer74 gs550 up for BOTM cos I was able to post the pics hope ya vote too bud its a cool looking ride for sure hope I get to see it in the flesh not too many miles from me

No don't be sorry, I'm glad he got nominated!
 
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which shocks are best for the cb360? What length as well?
 
cb360j said:
Does anyone have any recommendations as to which shocks are best for the cb360? What length as well?

Hagons are nice. 330mm eye to clevis is what you'll need.
 
irk miller said:
+1. I put Hagons on both 360's I built.

Where are you guys buying them from? On the Hagon website I cannot seem to find any 330mm eye to clevis shocks.

I take that back. I was being stupid on the website lol
 
I just bought a pair (31011SSC) for the CB400 from DCC as they ship for free.
I recall they came out to be around $25 cheaper than buying and shipping from UK.
 
I know that going to 330mm raises the rear of the bike making it better handling, but I don't think Hagon makes a shock that is 330mm eye to clevis. Anyone ever call them and have a custom shock, or does going with the 310mm (.80" shorter) make that much of a difference?
The stock 360 was 12" correct?
 
irk miller said:
I thought 310mm was stock, which is closer to 12 1/4".

I think you are correct, though, common motor says 12" is stock. Think going with the 12.20 Hagon would be ok? I live on a gravel road so I am trying to see which would be best for this ever so slight level of off-road.
 
irk miller said:
I thought 310mm was stock, which is closer to 12 1/4".

You're probably right. I was going off recommendations from an online seller and not from specs from the actual bike/manual/whatnot.
 
The hagons on my 360 and cl100 are customs. Built by Dave Quinn, but he closed shop.

DCC advertises custom built Hagon service.

Yes the 12.20 length is perfect.
 
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