"OLD GOLD" 1975 CL360 LAS VEGAS

work9to5

See you in the wind.
As a new transplant to Las Vegas I found myself with no transportation as I'll be waiting for my other bike to be shipped here a month from now. So yesterday I found an a CL360 in amazing condition and couldn't resist taking it home with me. So this is going to be a new build tread for it. It's in amazing shape, bought from original owner with 7,000 miles on it. Its so perfect I really don't want to change much. Gonna keep it tracker and see how I like it. I'm also excited to have an actual garage complete with real live scorpions! Haha, but serious sick of building out of small spaces, outdoors or in my bedroom! Going to list a bunch of things below with a direction I'm going to take for now. I appreciate any input.

-Tires - the originals are still on the bike an have gone to rot. Im thinking Shinko 244's would do the trick and they are also the fastest to get. Anybody riding these? Impressions? I'm also tempted to buy some larger "bubble" tires as I think the look would just be awesome with how small the bike is. Where's the best place to buy em?
-Battery - Its an old battery in there. Replacing it with a bikemaster medium, ordered last night
-Seat height and riding position - I'm not used to being so upright on a bike. I've been riding clubman's for the past three years and it's just more comfortable for me. Except for in the wrists, I've got the carp tunnels :). So going to change bars/seat height/ possibly suspension
-Bars- im going to try a different bar than im used to. Not sure which one but leaning towards the pre-drilled super motos from DCC.
-Seat height- Changing the seat completely. The original which is in perfect 10 condition will be for sale in the future. I'm going to be building the pan with wood and sand shaping it which I've had luck with in the past. Look at my inspiration build below for how I hope for it to end up.
-Suspension- This thing seems bouncy? Like really bouncy. I'm not sure if its from the old tires or if the original shocks are adjusted to be so yet. But this is something to sort out down the road, after the tires. The current originals are immaculate so don't want to loose them unless I don't like the way they ride.
-Back fender + signal lights- going to cut fender and change OEM signals after inspection is sorted. Lights will be "art deco" ones from DCC
-Carburation- Carbs have extreme signs of leaking from the seam on the bowl. Its really the one of the only signs of wear ive seen on the bike. But it still runs perfectly, which I find amazing. Keeping the air box and such because I don't see much of a point to messing with the triangle area as that beautiful muffler covers that area. Left the petcock on last night to see if its sealed now or if petcock leaks. Ordered new carb kit off Ebay on the ride home with bike lol.
-Front fender- It has a crack in it. there are minor signs that this bike may have taken a light tumble. Fender cracked/brake lever end ball knocked off/minor scraping on right engine cover. Will be looking for a shiny undented replacement. Hoping I can get through inspection without it.
-kick rubber is missing- ordered it last night


Here's my inspiration build- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvJriE1lBqs Going to be taking ques from that for seat, stance and bars.

Like I said I'm new to the area. Any riders close to me holla. Ideas, opinions and direction appreciated.
 

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Ok need a little advice. After reading a ton on sprocket size change ups for this size bike for lower rpms and better highway speeds ive decided to change one (but probably booth) sizes since I need a new chain I might as well get it done with all at once. Front sprocket going to 17tooth/ Rear sprocket going to 36tooth/ Chain 530 Xring (length recommended?)
Can someone give me a little insight as to how this will change the "ride" of the bike? Also will it adversely affect my engine in any way? Thanks ahead of time
 
You can't use an X-ring or an O-ring chain on these bikes without converting to 520. They're too thick and they'll eat up the sprocket cover.
 
looking at the retarded way you have those handlebars i wonder if you should even be holding a drivers license
i mean WHAT THE FUCK :-[ :-\ :eek: ??? :-\ :'( :'( :D :D
hahhahahaha
anyway you can do the simple math on the sprockets and figger the ratio and % of change
be careful gearing up on a 360 it doesn't have any power to spare
why do you think you want or need to lower the rpm's at cruise ?
 
Thanks for the heads up, exactly why I posted. With the 520 conversion i'm guessing i'll have to shim the rear a bit?
 
I lowered the handle bars so I could fit it in the back of my buddies honda element. I'm still waiting on my tools to be delivered by the post from Hawaii (which better happen tomorrow) so I had no way of putting back up for pics. The highways here have high speed limits than i'm used to. And traffic seems to be a little wonky. I wanna make sure I have the ability to keep up with traffic if I hop on a highway im not used to. I've moved a bunch around the country. With me being new here and not know the roads I wanna make sure that what I'm driving is equipped to deal with it. I've been (we've all been) in bad traffic situations on bikes, want to avoid that.
 
thank god you are not riding like that :)
you can always go back down to a 16 if you don't like the 17
 
Tools cam in today! Did a full inspection and hand wash. Found two minor issues that have to be addressed. One being that the gas cap latch is stuck. Sprayed it with wd and let it sit over night. Was able to get it open the next day while being really careful with a rubber hammer. The second issue was that the positive line to the battery was jerry rigged with a cut line. Rigged up a better line with an extra batter charger cable I cut and stripped down. Rubber for the kick came in today along with the carb kits. Battery showed up as well but of course I ordered a size that is too big for the box. Maybe it'll motivate me to change the battery box around tho. Have to figure something out quick tho because the current battery is 10 years old and unreliable. Went and bought Shinko 244's that will come in Tuesday. Havnt ridden a dual sport tire since I was a kid, excited to see what they're like. Started pulling the carbs will break them down and clean them tonight. Its clear to me that no one has ever serviced the engine or carbs before. All lines are in they're original place with factory clips. Compression numbers came in at 160 for both cylinders. Order a bunch of other stuff and devisecd a plan as to where im going to take it. Ordered-

17 tooth front sprocket
Pre drilled super moto handle bars (painting them gloss blk n the controls as well to freshen them up and match them)
dust covers
gaiters (not sure which of these i'm going to use)
glass sight fuel filter
a case of ngk b8es sparks
mini speedo with indicator lights
black amber deco indicator lights
front brake shoes
grey biltwell grips
clymers manual

In the next couple days Ill lower the triple tree 1.5". As to give the bike a stance I'm more comfortable with. I'll give the tree a once over with paint at the same time to freshen it up. Slide the gaiters on at the same time. I removed the front fender today because of the crack in it. I think that I might use it fab a back fender out of. Its just about the right size to cover the back tire. And I could use the mounting tabs to weld on to the frame. Something for the future. Going to clear coat the tank for a crisp shine on a really faded tank. I may switch this tank up later on with one of the other ones ive got. Had the tire guys bring in a 520 chain as well.

Need Ideas on a simple batter box.

Oh an xb, the current bars have been returned to their proper position ;)
 
Ok guys a little help. Just took down the carbs. Is this as stripped down as I can get them without separating them? Are there any rubber O rings connecting the two carbs that if I put them in carb dip now would be ruined? I don't think so but want to make sure as this is the first 360 carb I've seen the in side of.
 

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So I figured out the carbs they are cleaned and sealed back up. During that whole process I removed the battery box and air boxes and tool box to get the carbs out easier. Made me realize how easy and cleaner the bike looks without anything down there. So because I've got a larger battery than can fit back in there I'm going to try to find something to fab a battery box out of tomorrow. I'll leave the tabs from the old battery box to mount the seat to. And order some pods tonight. If anybody that has put pods on with stock mufflers can get back to me as to what jet changes/if any are needed for this I would appreciate it. I cleaned up the tank as well and while scrubbing it down decided to try a wet sand on it. Tank had some fading so why not right. I've always liked the "woody" build so I gave it a try to see if I could get a similar affect. It came out really great. The pics don't really do it justice but I got the effect I wanted. Added a ton of patina to it. Tonight I'm going to put some clear coat on it to seal but am also curious to see what would happen if a left it for a day? Tell me what you think. Recommendations on jetting and tuning appreciated aswell.
 

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You should have removed the link bar and operating pulley, there are special seals on the 'arms' You need to oil the throttle shafts, the felt seals are not available anywhere, if faulty you have to make new ones. You did remove primary main jet discharge/emulsion tubes?
 
Well that info was a little too late ;) Something to worry about later haha. Not to worried though, have done worse things to carbs before than cleaning them improperly. I clear coated the tank. Looks the same just really shiny, very happy with it. Also just bought another tank on ebay. If anyone needs one lmk as I bought it just to play with (could even refinish it and paint it to your liking possibly). would let go of it for the right price. I "fabed" a battery box from an tv electrical box as well and painted (gloss blk) it yesterday. Going to fit it in there and adjust everything today and then put her back together using the stock parts so I can get through an inspection. If I can fit the new battery box and the stock air cleaners, I plan on keeping it like that and not messing with pods. Don't want to deal with the nightmare of tuning carbs like I had to with the PD's on my other build. Tires should come in tomorrow as well. DCC order comes in Thursday I hope. And started sand shaping the seat. That process is going to be slow going though. I'm aiming for this as my "inspiration" Can wait to ride her. will post up pics later of progress.

Sonreir, I'd love to see your build on your 360 if you want to throw up a link
 
Below are pics from today. And then i'll follow it with a vid of it running. Battery box installed. Had to run new leads and all electrics are now relocated to the back of the battery. Sits flush and good. But had to secure it for now with zips as I didn't have the proper fasteners. Carbs sync'd and reinstalled. Breather boxes reinstalled. Note the tube connecting them is not in place yet. Fired right up but is pulling way too much air!. the vid is with choke open just a tiny bit. Opening choke just a little bit more than that makes it rev WAY too high. Was able to drive and switch gears but with stumbling throughout gears (3erd seems to run the best). Tried adjusting air/fuel screws but it doesn't really make sense to start tuning without controlling air box situation. Considering closing both openings in air boxes instead of connecting but wondering what effect that will have on system because it wouldn't create a "circuit" as far as air flow is concerned. Feed back appreciated.
 

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Had to up load via youtube. You can find vid here- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INmc817g4QM&feature=youtu.be

TONS OF BACK PRESSURE!
 
Sounds like you have a leak somewhere?
Should pick up better than that as well.
 
Just blocked off the holes where the air clears are supposed to connect. And then readjusted the idle screw and then turned both air/fuel screws to 1 turn out. Now have equal back pressure from pipes. Also the stumble when in drive has been reduced considerably. Have felt around carb rubber boots for possible air leak and there doesn't seem to be any, that I can tell. Even though I can't feel a hesitation in drive I can "sense" that it is trying to? Its not smooth yet but better. I've never driven or worked on a diafram slide type carb before. What can infer from these changes about where to head next with tuning? With these assumptions/observations - 1. Carbs are sync'd correctly 2. Carb channels and jets are clean 3. I did not reset float bowl height because they looked even (they look even and didn't want to mess with them) 4. Adjustment of air/idel/fuel screws all produce changes expected

I'm not going to mess with her until I get the new tires on as I just skidded 5 ft when coming to a stop at 15mpg lol. And the tachs not working all of a sudden OF COURSE

Crazypj what did you mean by "pick up better than that"? It should rev higher when given gas?

Took the time to digest yours and soneirs' 360 build threads. Great stuff, the details and fore thought! Give me a couple years of learning n tinkering and I'll be there :)
 
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