xs650 Sumotrack

You can't have too much taillight. 8)
I followed a Yamaha 'V-Max' with blacked out tail light, looked cool but almost rammed it a few times as I just couldn't see if brake light was on going into corners. Even with good rear lights, there is still a possibility of some asshole ramming you at stoplightslights
 
Yeah, up here people really don't pay attention so I want to be as visible as possible.

I was able to roll it outside and look from more than 3ft away. I'm pretty happy with the look. I did lower the rear suspension by 3/4" to get the rake out to 24.8*. It was at right under 24 which seemed a bit steep.
 

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How have you fitted tank? I've got an early YZ tank almost identical to that one but it's way more 'nose down'.
 
Its a dt tank, I literally just slid it into the original front mounts. I know with replacing the back half the frame the rear mount is higher than original for the xs.
 
Not picture worthy, but it is down to a bare frame and smoothed out and prepped for powder coating. I work 4-10s so friday is one of my days off, and the day it will go out to powder. The plan is to have the frame coated in prismatic's illusion cinnamon.
 
Well the frame is at powder coating. So I started cleaning up the engine. A few minutes with eagle one etching mag wheel cleaner doea a whole lot.
 

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Well new pistons are on the way. Some of the gaskets had been seeping so I wanted to replace gaskets and seals. Got the head off and realized the front cam chain guide had no rubber on it. Then I got the ID measuring tools out. Cylinders are .0005 over max standard bore at the smallest and about .005 taper.
 
That's a lot of taper. Majority of 650's have had pretty hard lives, I know mine did ;D
 
Yeah. Looks like I'm going to need new rods while I am at it. There is no copper left on the little ends. So I guess I should do the rephase now since the crank has to come apart.
 
On the outside of rods?
There never was any copper on the 'inside' of small end
I've seen them heat blackened several times and also worn oval but they do seem to be very strong
I had an XS crank given to me where rod had bent about 60 degrees sideways but kept running long enough for flywheel gear to wear away almost half the piston pin and most of the piston. Unfortunately I never could find out how it happened.
If your doing re-phase it may be worth doing the CR500 rods plus shorter 78mm~82mm pistons. (87mm is max bore size with new liners)
Cost isn't going to be a heck of a lot different
 
Well, no matter what the rods are done for. Probably oval, but enough deep scratches that it would cause problems.

I want to do a long rod set up, but if I want the bike on the road this summer it's not going to happen. With 2nd over pistons, new rods, gaskets and seals I'll probably have about $500 in the engine.
 
Tear down 90% done. Not pictured I had to drill out the drain plug from the lower case.
 

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Rat_ranger said:
Yeah. Looks like I'm going to need new rods while I am at it. There is no copper left on the little ends. So I guess I should do the rephase now since the crank has to come apart.

The copper plating was only on surfaces that were not hardened. Small end eye and big end were plated prior to being machined to size and before they were hardened.
 
Yeah, lots of conflicting info online. I have seen where a fairly reputable shop says if the plating is worn the rods are done. Mine have enough scoring that it doesn't matter if they should be plated or not. The play is visually big enough that I didn't bother to measure, especially once I saw the scoring.
 
No, haven't really been on that site. The different xs forums and a few articles on others is where I got some info. For hard measurements I have the manual.
 
The big end pins both have pretty good gouges from the thrust washers. So it's probably a good thing I split the crank fully.

I'm making some parts for a welder at work so I can have him weld the crank for me.
 

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