Anyone tried this?

SONICJK said:
You want to put it between the points and coils.
Click to expand...

Wait...what?
Electricity is all VooDoo to me, but that doesn't seem right. I have a Pamco, BTW. If I put it between the points (Pamco) and coils, that just reduces the signal from the Pamco t othe coils. The tach is still coming straight off the coils and would get full signal from the coil. Right?
Doesn't it need to be between the tach and the coil?
 
Is yours set up for wasted spark ie twice as many pulses as single spark?
 
When they say "between" they don't mean in series. They mean tap into the lead between the trigger and the coil. A splice will work fine.
 
teazer said:
When they say "between" they don't mean in series. They mean tap into the lead between the trigger and the coil. A splice will work fine.
Click to expand...
This.
You want the tach to pick up the signal that the points/pamco are/is giving of. It's just a series of on off on off on off. And the tach uses that to calculate rpm.

Some tachs have an inductive lead, if that's the case you can just wrap the wire a bunch of times around one of your spark plug wires and it gets the signal from there.
 
teazer said:
Is yours set up for wasted spark ie twice as many pulses as single spark?
Click to expand...

Yes.

Pamco Pete told me himself that it can't go on the wire between the points plate/Pamco board and the coil. The Pamco wouldn't work that way.
I have it on the wire that's coming out of the gauge. That goes to a dual spade connector on the coil, same side that the Pamco (or points) is coming into.
This works, but there's noise in it. We made up a capacitor by winding about 10 ft. of wire in my drill. That calmed the signal down and made it steady. I'm on my way to Radio Shack to find the smallest capacitor they have...probably gonna be a .0047 or .001 microfarad, as long as I can find one with a working voltage of 500VDC.
 
scott s said:
Yes.

Pamco Pete told me himself that it can't go on the wire between the points plate/Pamco board and the coil. The Pamco wouldn't work that way.
I have it on the wire that's coming out of the gauge. That goes to a dual spade connector on the coil, same side that the Pamco (or points) is coming into.
This works, but there's noise in it. We made up a capacitor by winding about 10 ft. of wire in my drill. That calmed the signal down and made it steady. I'm on my way to Radio Shack to find the smallest capacitor they have...probably gonna be a .0047 or .001 microfarad, as long as I can find one with a working voltage of 500VDC.
Click to expand...

That's the same thing as splicing into the wire between the points and coils.

A capacitor and a resistor should help calm the signal down to be more readable.
 
I'm running a Vapor on two of my bikes. It's about the same cost as the ones in the original post, but you get a few extra features:

http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
 
The speedo works, but I still need to enter the proper tire diameter and change it to MPH.

I also installed a 10K ohm resistor inline on the tach wire to get the signal down.



That got the tach reading correctly, but it has a little noise in it. The bars would jump up one or two bars over the actual idle speed. We twisted up about 10 feet of wire in my drill to make a homemade capacitor and prove a theory. That took ALL the noise out of the tach signal as made it steady.
I tried wiring in a capacitor from Radio shack, but the smallest one I could fid didn't remove all the noise. I have half a mind to re-attach the coiled wire and just hide it under the tank somewhere.


 
After fiddling with the bike today, tuning the carbs and getting some heat into the engine, the tach really calmed down. Most, if not all, of the noise went away. It was idling in the driveway and two bars were showing....a nice, steady idle.

It's certainly not bad enough to bother me at this point. It seems to be working fine now.
All that's left is to program the speedo.
 
To get tire diameter, you can make a mark on the tire and driveway, roll the bike forward until the tire mark is down and make another mark in the driveway. Measure between the marks for diameter.
 
Or, run a piece of string around the tire. Or use this: http://www.csgnetwork.com/tiresizescalc.html

I just need to make time to do it.
 
He was seen riding across Westminster St. with a smile a week ago..... :D Just kidding!
 
It's actually working great. I have a little over 150 miles since the bike was finished. I got the tach to read right and with no "noise". The speedo is accurate, as confirmed by riding side by side with my Dad at different speeds and cross checking.

The only thing I can't get to work is the reset for the trip odometer. I can toggle back and forth between odo and trip, and the instructions say to "hold right button long" to reset trip, but it doesn't work....yet, anyway. I'll see if I can figure it out.

The idiot lights are very bright. The display is easy to read. At first, I thought the backlight didn't work, but as it gets darker outside, or if I pull into the garage, it is indeed backlit a nice blue. I'd say it's a great value for the money.
 
Re: Anyone tried this? - Any more DanMoto users?

Sorry to resurrect such an old thread but I'm close to pull the trigger on one of these DanMoto units and I thought I'd check to see if there is any more input from current users.

The DanMoto 180 is about perfect for my application; my brother is going to work up a billet top triple for me and the plan is to recess one of these into it so the smaller size is ideal. I wish I had been ready to buy a few months ago because the price has gone up by about $20 or so in the last 3-4 months. Speaking of price, I was surprised and frustrated to discover three different prices for this same unit from three different sources. DanMoto and DanMoto_US have this available on the DanMoto site, Amazon.com, and eBay for $139.32, $151.20, & $156.60 respectively. (Shipping included.) What the heck? Looks to me like unless you are nuts you'd order directly from their site, AND, all three are shipped from Reno, NV and not from Asia.

And speaking of price, I found there is a large variety of these digital units available out there now with prices going from as low as $30 and up. Many that I saw seemed to be more ornate and fancy looking, perhaps better suited for use on street fighters. Some of the product descriptions were poorly written and not easy to understand; didn't give me much confidence in the product.

So, anyway, is anyone else been using one of their digital units and what have your experiences been? Worth buying? Good product? Not worth buying? Total crap?
 
Sonreir said:
I'm running a Vapor on two of my bikes. It's about the same cost as the ones in the original post, but you get a few extra features:

http://trailtech.net/vapor.html
Click to expand...

Sonreir, I grabbed the mount kit for one of these for a steal... I have the Dyna S ignition. Any mods needed to run the Vapor?
 
I loved mine. I've since used the Danmoto Nano on a couple of builds, too.
On the Radian, it came from the factory with an electronic tach so I just wired up the Danmoto and it worked perfectly; no resistors or anything needed on that bike.
They're easy to see in daylight and at night. The wiring is VERY close to factory Honda wiring and easy to understand for use on other bikes.
For the money, you can't beat Danmoto.


 
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