1965 Honda C100 Cub (Watch me strip!!! XXX S*X!!!)
- Thread starter Rocan
- Start date
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
haha.... that screams disaster.
Hey PJ... any idea how straight the footpegs were from the factory? this bike must have been dropped on its side a few times over the years.... left side area of frame where toolbox goes is bent inwards and the footpegs are bent upwards.
haha.... that screams disaster.
Hey PJ... any idea how straight the footpegs were from the factory? this bike must have been dropped on its side a few times over the years.... left side area of frame where toolbox goes is bent inwards and the footpegs are bent upwards.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
Both sides are bent up, the footrest bar should be straight with footrests level (if that makes sense?)
There is no 'swept back' angle to them that I remember, bike has probably been dropped/fallen over several times during its life
Both sides are bent up, the footrest bar should be straight with footrests level (if that makes sense?)
There is no 'swept back' angle to them that I remember, bike has probably been dropped/fallen over several times during its life
Lurchorama
Saving small Honda's in Australia.
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
Its only a cub. You can count the number of parts on one hand.
surffly said:
Its only a cub. You can count the number of parts on one hand.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
They are not bent when new, but, they are not particularly good quality spring steel so the initial bending when dropped tends to harden the steel a bit. Almost every single one I worked on was bent upwards by the time it was 6 months old
They are not bent when new, but, they are not particularly good quality spring steel so the initial bending when dropped tends to harden the steel a bit. Almost every single one I worked on was bent upwards by the time it was 6 months old
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
I needed something to ride around my neighborhood and to pop over into jersey city to see my girlfriend. The 350 is just a bit too far off completion to finish soon enough. I'm waiting on my co-worker to get back from his vacation so that I can start painting!
surffly said:
I needed something to ride around my neighborhood and to pop over into jersey city to see my girlfriend. The 350 is just a bit too far off completion to finish soon enough. I'm waiting on my co-worker to get back from his vacation so that I can start painting!
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
That moment when you crack the skirt of a piston that isn't much larger than a quarter and you realize that you just lost 50 dollars and have to wait half a month for a replacement from thailand.
#!@%!@#$%^& %&!@*($*!!!!!!!
That moment when you crack the skirt of a piston that isn't much larger than a quarter and you realize that you just lost 50 dollars and have to wait half a month for a replacement from thailand.
#!@%!@#$%^& %&!@*($*!!!!!!!
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
dang BC.. wish I new before I ordered a replacement from thailand.
flywheel was giving me a lot of trouble to get the tool on (yes I realize its reverse threaded), and somwhere along the line the wood I was using to hold the piston in place so i could torque on the remover to get it on (the threads were messy so I had to torque it to get the tool on) slipped and got wedged between the piston and the crankcase, cracking it quickly. It's very thin material. ugh.
I got the flywheel off though, although I never really got the tool properly threaded on. The threads don't look pulled or crossed at all, so i'm totally lost as to why it was not threading on properly.
At this point I got really frustrated and fed up with working so I quit for the day before I caused more damage.
I have pictures, i'll post tomorrow.
dang BC.. wish I new before I ordered a replacement from thailand.
flywheel was giving me a lot of trouble to get the tool on (yes I realize its reverse threaded), and somwhere along the line the wood I was using to hold the piston in place so i could torque on the remover to get it on (the threads were messy so I had to torque it to get the tool on) slipped and got wedged between the piston and the crankcase, cracking it quickly. It's very thin material. ugh.
I got the flywheel off though, although I never really got the tool properly threaded on. The threads don't look pulled or crossed at all, so i'm totally lost as to why it was not threading on properly.
At this point I got really frustrated and fed up with working so I quit for the day before I caused more damage.
I have pictures, i'll post tomorrow.
BCBarker
Coast to Coast
1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
I looked at a c102 last week with the top end missing and the piston exposed. Can't remember if it was rusted or really dirty. I think it was really dirty. I may go grab it and another c100 for a buddy of mine. If I get them we are gonna ditch the remnants of the stock motor and drop in a Lifan. Ill let you know if I do.
I looked at a c102 last week with the top end missing and the piston exposed. Can't remember if it was rusted or really dirty. I think it was really dirty. I may go grab it and another c100 for a buddy of mine. If I get them we are gonna ditch the remnants of the stock motor and drop in a Lifan. Ill let you know if I do.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
OK, I see, learning curve just got steeper ;D
Never try and lock crank with piston on rod, unless your locking from primary side (generally not a good idea as it IS possible to twist crank)
Should get pair of bars that lock around rod under small end (rather than slotted plate onto piston pin)
Weld something up then use thin wood strips laying across cylinder studs to prevent crankcase damage
OK, I see, learning curve just got steeper ;D
Never try and lock crank with piston on rod, unless your locking from primary side (generally not a good idea as it IS possible to twist crank)
Should get pair of bars that lock around rod under small end (rather than slotted plate onto piston pin)
Weld something up then use thin wood strips laying across cylinder studs to prevent crankcase damage
Re: 1965* Honda C100 Cub (Absorbing the Bumps)
crazypj, wish I thought of that. I knew that locking the crank using the piston was far from a good idea, but I couldn't figure out an alternative at the time. I just used enough wood so that the entire piston skirt was seated, minimizing the risk of damage. Oh well, live and you learn.
crazypj, wish I thought of that. I knew that locking the crank using the piston was far from a good idea, but I couldn't figure out an alternative at the time. I just used enough wood so that the entire piston skirt was seated, minimizing the risk of damage. Oh well, live and you learn.
