cb360j said:Wouldn’t I just be able to test continuity on the cable and that would rule that out?
You could do voltage drop at either end of cable, you could buy a $10.00 automotive Ammeter that goes to at least 60 amps (should be around 45 amps when cranking, probably full range for a second when it first bumps over)You should have bare metal connector on frame behind ignition coil bolt and another at rear engine mount where ground lead fits from battery. It's also a good idea to clean paint off crankcase top rear mounts plus frame inside where motor will be clamped. Original stock cases do not have bottom case painted and ythe front right lower mount has spring washers that cut through paint to provide good grounding (they are always rusty around one bolt hole through bottom)cb360j said:Fortunately you gave me two wires from the starter to the solenoid. I’ll give it a shot with the other one when I get home. Wouldn’t I just be able to test continuity on the cable and that would rule that out?
I’ll clean the ground spot off even More just to make sure it’s not that. But if there is a bad ground, wouldn’t the lights not turn on? Cause they all do.
I’ll go ahead and order a starter rebuild kit just for good measure I suppose.
One thing I noticed when I was trying to do static timing, I couldn’t get the test light to come on. Is that indicative of anything