Cb360 engine troubleshoot. Need help

While draining my gas tank I noticed fuel was only coming out one port, which is odd because both carbs have been filling up. So I decided to take the petcock apart and clean it. It looks like I would benefit from a couple new o-rings though. I hope they're not too hard to find.
 
rebuilt my fuel valve with new gaskets and now it operates great. but my right cylinder is still not firing right. I noticed when I remove the spark plug wire while the bike is running, that it seems to be making a bad connection or something. if I push it on so that the metal barely touches the end of the spark plug, it starts making spark and gets that cylinder going. does this sound like I need new wire caps?
 
Before you spring for new caps, pull the current ones off, cut about 1/2" of wire, and then reattach the current ones.
 
Thanks Sonreir. I actually already did that a few weeks ago. I did just notice it acts that way on both sides now. where it seems to make a better connection if I barely touch the end of the metal in the caps to the plug. could that mean its another issue? I might also consider bypassing the caps and just connect the wires to the plugs via another wire in between to see if the caps are the issue.
 
I disconnected the wire cap and connected the wire to the plug via alligator clips. looks like for some reason, when the wire makes a solid connection, I dont get any spark from the spark plug. but when I force the electricity to jump as far as it can, the engine runs fine. does this mean my condenser or coil is bad? or am I just a total idiot? doesn't look like its the wire caps at least. but that would be the cheapest/easiest fix. yarrrrrr

ps. sorry if the video is a little long, I was having fun getting the cylinder to run. ;)

http://youtu.be/9XkaQC-g070
 
Not a coil problem if you're getting a spark that big. Are the points sparking when they fire? If so, that's usually an indication of a condensor problem.

Which plugs are you currently using and have they been properly gapped? .035" is standard, I think.
 
The points do spark when they fire. I'm using the correct NGK plugs gapped to spec. Next time I am able, I'll take the tank back off and check out the condenser and wiring.

Is there a "longest unresolved troubleshoot thread" award? I may be getting close to winning that. :D
 
thrillseeker said:
Is there a "longest unresolved troubleshoot thread" award? I may be getting close to winning that. :D
Click to expand...

Only two pages so far, not even close ;)
 
shit thrillseeker! I've got two pages of the EXACT SAME issue, EXACT SAME bike, on another forum (VJMOG) and still no resolution. I have replaced coils, high tension wires, spark plugs, electronic ignition (yes replaced it) and ran new fresh wires to and from the ignition/coils. New ignition switch, new battery, new regulator/rectifier, and still have a wonky spark on the R/H cylinder (weak and sickly yellow) been through my carbs at least a dozen times, and replaced the petcock as well as the fuel tank, and the fuel lines and new filters. the only difference I can find between our bike problems is that mine only happens after a good hard run down the slab. Around the neighborhood I can putter round all day long! WTF?

caveat: a have spoken with a few people that swear the keihin carbs on 360s are far too fiddly and life is easier by just replacing them. I'm still in for solving the problem...
 
Nothing wrong with 360 carbs, they just need some modifications if you run anything other than stock airbox/filters and exhaust
 
Bunch of different stuff, secondary main jets, air correctors, float level, emulsion tubes
I've done quite a few for people here to fix mid range, you only have to sort out top end running (usually bigger secondary main)
Contact trek97, I did his carbs about a year ago
 
While checking my timing today, I noticed there is current going through the left point when it should be only going through the right. I created a quick video to show you what's going on. Is this an issue? It sure seems like something abnormal. A short maybe?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEMiq9E-kUg
 
When the points are open, bulb lights, when they close, bulb doesn't light, whats the problem?
 
The right point has no current through it when the lamp is lit. That indicates an open point. The left glows a little. That indicates a closed set of points that are grounding the coil. The little bit of glow shows there might be resistance in the points. They may need cleaning or replacement. To clean points, you need a point file So not use sandpaper. Sandpaper leaves grit and leads to the condition you are trying to fix. Sandpaper or match strike zone will fix points on the road quick, but the residue also fouls them fast too


Remember. Light on, points are open, so volts travel to ground through test lamp. Points shut, volts travel to ground through much lower resistance points, leaving the test lamp off or maybe a slight glow if the points are fouled.


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Wow thanks for the detailed reply! I'll clean my points and if they're still doing the same thing, replace them.
 
Check the wiring connector isn't grounding out before you go changing stuff, you could spend a lot of money and make things worse
 
It looks like my points are slightly pitted/corroded in the center and only making contact at the outer edge. Do these look like they need replaced?

emurudez.jpg
 
I would change them and the condenser

They could be dressed with a point file, but I find their reliability goes down. Also, it takes some experience to file th correctly.

So just replace them


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