Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature currently requires accessing the site using the built-in Safari browser.
We noticed you are blocking ads. DO THE TON only works with community supporters. Most are active members of the site with small businesses. Please consider disabling your ad blocking tool and checking out the businesses that help keep our site up and free.
I have started to rebuild my yamaha R5 engine and took off the top end and the side covers. I took the bolts out to separate the two halfs of the transmission. Not sure what the best way to separate them is. Also what should I replace well I am rebuilding it? I have to replace the crankshaft and the pistons and get it bored and I will also replace the gaskets.
You need to replace ALL of the seals and gaskets. You can find them at several online shops or on EBAY.
Hit the retainer nut on the clutch basket with an impact gun. It'll spin the whole deal, but it will also loosen the nut.
Make sure you remove all the bolts on top and all nuts on the bottom. When I split my cases (they're glued together) I ran a coupke of the longer case bolts into some of the shorter holes. After bottoming them out I tapped the bolts with a rubber mallet, separating the cases enough to get a wood wedge in there to pry them apart.
When reassembling, make sure to properly lubricate everything. Don't drive seals in dry. Make sure everything is very clean. Use a good quality case sealer to stick the cases back together.
Replace any rusty or damaged fasteners. Torque everything to spec and in the correct order.
Motion pro makes a clutch holder. I made one out of some vise grips and two pieces of stainless steel flatbar the was bent 90 degrees on the ends. I'll have to take a picture of it and put it up in the homemade tools thread.
Pfoeehhhhh thats nasty. Sodablasting would be prefferable.
The 'bearings' from the crankshaft look really worn. Do you still have the crankshaft?
I would suggest getting fresh bearings and such.
Ya I have the crankshaft and yes all the bearings need to be replaced. Someone had it apart before me and didn't put the crankshaft back in so the crankshaft area is pretty dirty.
it got filled with fuel and oil the last time it ran or tried to start and sat for 80 years, thats what old varnish looks like
not a big deal unless it really ate in to the alum. i would get a (ebay) crank,if it falls in to spec replace the rubber and go. but take a good hard look at the ing system rd/r5 coils are junk and the gunk in your case tell me that that bike wasnt getting enuff or any spark. it loaded up that what happens.life is only as hard as you make it. get a used crank and when your money ahead rebuild your old one.
You've never seen a 40 year old crank rebuilt at some time with non pin bearings? I have. No pics of the crank and I don't like to assume it's original.
Still unsure how you'd "mic the crank bearing surfaces"
There's a specific measurement for all of the bearing surfaces in the crank case. If the motor siezed up or was damaged (we don't know the extent of he engine wear) it could have damaged those surfaces. I was trying to save him a real headache down the road. Sorry for that. Won't happen again.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.