175 cam in a Cb200
- Thread starter Texasstar
- Start date
175 has a pressed on 30 tooth sprocket and the 200 has a bolt on 32t sprocket. The last 200 cams I checked had the same lift as 175 cams but I didn't check the duration.
The best "hot" cam is megacycles mildest street and track profile. It will work with a stock motor, but raising compression helps it along. You will probably have to mill the top of the cylinders to get squish down to .75mm and at that point you have to check piston to valve clearances. We recess the valves slightly and sometimes have to pocket the pistons too but we take a lot of metal off heads barrels and pistons.
The best "hot" cam is megacycles mildest street and track profile. It will work with a stock motor, but raising compression helps it along. You will probably have to mill the top of the cylinders to get squish down to .75mm and at that point you have to check piston to valve clearances. We recess the valves slightly and sometimes have to pocket the pistons too but we take a lot of metal off heads barrels and pistons.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
You are the one I hoped would comment! I have been reading all your comments! They need to be made into a tutorial for racing! Because of your posts I have all ready priced megacycles cams. Was looking to see if there were any other options. Have not milled the top of the jug yet. How much will that raise the compression?teazer said:
That depends on how much you mill off ;-)
I build it and measure deck height and work out from there what I want to machine and by how much. It also depends on budget. It costs much more to machine pistons barrels and head, than to simply mill the barrels and head flat.
I build it and measure deck height and work out from there what I want to machine and by how much. It also depends on budget. It costs much more to machine pistons barrels and head, than to simply mill the barrels and head flat.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Thanks Teazer! If you were gonna try to do the ton in a cb200 what would be your path on a budget? Here is where we are so far:
200.00 cb200t
360.00 CSMsnl .75 over pistons rings pins, nifty key ring
140.00 Glass from the past
80.00 eBay Oem valves
14.00 viton seals
90.00 vintage advantage valve springs ek29h timing chain
140.00 tires and tubes
35.00 carb kits
50.00 gaskets
17.00 jets
450.00 shop supplies,tools, carb cleaner, acetone, marvel mystery oil, calipers etc. manuals
40.00 battery
1616.00 so far lol and worth every penny!
200.00 cb200t
360.00 CSMsnl .75 over pistons rings pins, nifty key ring
140.00 Glass from the past
80.00 eBay Oem valves
14.00 viton seals
90.00 vintage advantage valve springs ek29h timing chain
140.00 tires and tubes
35.00 carb kits
50.00 gaskets
17.00 jets
450.00 shop supplies,tools, carb cleaner, acetone, marvel mystery oil, calipers etc. manuals
40.00 battery
1616.00 so far lol and worth every penny!
100 mph on a CB200 needs a decent fairing and steep hill. 
It's not impossible but 100 mile per hour takes a fair amount of HP and a reduction in drag. We use RS125 fairings on our Cb160 based racers but they are too small to hide my bulk behind. Choose a fairing that suits the rider and focus on getting aerodynamics right.
It's not impossible but 100 mile per hour takes a fair amount of HP and a reduction in drag. We use RS125 fairings on our Cb160 based racers but they are too small to hide my bulk behind. Choose a fairing that suits the rider and focus on getting aerodynamics right.
Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Uncle.Pete's tuner was like you Teazer... He was a guru of squeezing speed out of little engines...this one did over 2 ton... With aerodynamics and no hillteazer said:100 mph on a CB200 needs a decent fairing and steep hill.
It's not impossible but 100 mile per hour takes a fair amount of HP and a reduction in drag. We use RS125 fairings on our Cb160 based racers but they are too small to hide my bulk behind. Choose a fairing that suits the rider and focus on getting aerodynamics right.
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Texasstar
Can't is a four letter dirty word
Teazer my son is nine we are gonna wait until he is a little older to put the cam in. What about reducing resistance on the cam in the cb200 by installing bearings in the cam housings in the future? The oil spiral groove on the tach side looks suspect for supplying enough oil to that cam if you increase rpms? My honda odyssey has Teflon coated pistons/sleeves??? to reduce friction? What about coating other components to reduce friction? Honda engineered "piston slap" into the 2006-2012 odyssey which means the pistons are slightly oval shaped until they warm up. My buddy John works in QC on the honda oddy program and says it was designed to save weight and increase fuel Econ. What opposite reactions do you have to make when increasing rpms in the cb/175 200?teazer said:
"It's an optimization exercise and not a maximization trip." -you
All pistons are made oval shaped (cammed) so that the sides have more clearance and that's to reduce drag between the pistons and bores which are the largest single source of friction in an engine.
I have little to no faith in coatings though I have seen a few reports that seem to suggest that they might make some small difference at first before they wear off.
Cams can be converted to needle rollers but again that's a fair amount of cost for not a lot of return. You can lighten the rocker arms and find titanium tappet nuts or adjusting screws. It all adds up eventually. Make sure the wheels spin freely without any drag in the bearings or brakes. That makes a difference.
You have time on your side, so a cam and or other updates can come as an upgrade in later years. You also have the opportunity to gather a few spare parts to work on and then swap them over.
Any weight saved improves acceleration and there's a lot of weight that can be removed if you start looking. Thinks like steel wheel spacers and bearing spacers can be replaced with aluminum parts. And they can be swapped in as you move along. A friend of mine drag races a GT750 Suzuki and each year he finds ways (weighs....) to trim off more weight. That way the bike just keeps improving and there's an ongoing development - long term development approach rather than a quickie let's get it done philosophy.
Look at Glass From the Past GFTP for fiberglass fenders at gerat prices.
We do additional work on our pistons to shorten and lighten them and even the tappet adjusting screws are machined. I had some broached with a small hex shape to make them hollow, saving a few fractions of a gram. We also change the internal breathing the same sort of idea that Suzuki finally invented for the later model GSXRs. I got that idea from Pops Yoshimura's tuning notes back in the sixties.
Get squish right is a great help and stop the cam chain from flopping around. Good crank mounted ignition is a boon if you can work it out for the street or at least get a GL1000 Dyna and cam mount it. It happens to be the same size backing plate as a CB160/175/200.
Grab a copy of Tuning For Speed which was first published when Pontius was a pilot and is still relevant today. It covers the basics.
I have little to no faith in coatings though I have seen a few reports that seem to suggest that they might make some small difference at first before they wear off.
Cams can be converted to needle rollers but again that's a fair amount of cost for not a lot of return. You can lighten the rocker arms and find titanium tappet nuts or adjusting screws. It all adds up eventually. Make sure the wheels spin freely without any drag in the bearings or brakes. That makes a difference.
You have time on your side, so a cam and or other updates can come as an upgrade in later years. You also have the opportunity to gather a few spare parts to work on and then swap them over.
Any weight saved improves acceleration and there's a lot of weight that can be removed if you start looking. Thinks like steel wheel spacers and bearing spacers can be replaced with aluminum parts. And they can be swapped in as you move along. A friend of mine drag races a GT750 Suzuki and each year he finds ways (weighs....) to trim off more weight. That way the bike just keeps improving and there's an ongoing development - long term development approach rather than a quickie let's get it done philosophy.
Look at Glass From the Past GFTP for fiberglass fenders at gerat prices.
We do additional work on our pistons to shorten and lighten them and even the tappet adjusting screws are machined. I had some broached with a small hex shape to make them hollow, saving a few fractions of a gram. We also change the internal breathing the same sort of idea that Suzuki finally invented for the later model GSXRs. I got that idea from Pops Yoshimura's tuning notes back in the sixties.
Get squish right is a great help and stop the cam chain from flopping around. Good crank mounted ignition is a boon if you can work it out for the street or at least get a GL1000 Dyna and cam mount it. It happens to be the same size backing plate as a CB160/175/200.
Grab a copy of Tuning For Speed which was first published when Pontius was a pilot
and is still relevant today. It covers the basics.
