Best Honda CB for pods

jungalist said:
stock airbox isn't better than pods, you just need to get everything set just right. I've got my carbs jetted and tuned by someone who does it for decades and knows what he's doing and does it for the love of motorcycles instead of for his business. he had 3 days of work to get it all set to perfection but it was worth it...

just don't put pods on your bike without jetting or you're doomed to lose power.
Do it right and pods wil function as good or even better than with a stock airbox.

Show me the dyno results to back your claim or else it is nothing but hypothetical Bull Shit.
I think the OP is one of Ichibans multiple personalities. No one serious would consider such a douche bag way to decide on which bike to buy. I could be wrong, but I've never seen a velocity stack that incorporated a usable filter. They make power for racing , but don't filter out shit, and that will decrease the life span of the motor.
Makes me wonder why the manufacturers spent 10's of thousands of dollars developing the air box when they could have just thrown on $4 worth of pods and made more power.
 
I run external filters on my stacks. Doesn't do anything for the dust in the air, but helps keep small children from getting sucked into the intakes.

303304_10151001039075159_818592118_n.jpg
 
No front fender,n stacks with filters. That must run horrible and you must get all kinda shit thrown at you. I'm really dissapointed ;)
 
o1marc said:
I think the OP is one of Ichibans multiple personalities. No one serious would consider such a douche bag way to decide on which bike to buy.

I am not the OP marc. If you go look at my build- I already have a bike and I have already installed velocity stacks installed on it.
 
Sonreir said:
Definitely a fair-weather, street-only bike.

Aw hell, I'd run it through a motorcross track.
Just ship it down and I'll send you a free video of it.
 
Ichiban Moto said:
I am not the OP marc. If you go look at my build- I already have a bike and I have already installed velocity stacks installed on it.

Which bike is that? I didn't think you had gotten the other carb on the bike yet and were at the velocity stack stage yet. I'm sure you are aware that I am fully involved in your amazing Yamaha build as a technical consultant.
You say this isn't you, but could it just be you arguing with another of your multiple personalities? If not I'm sure you can help this builder out.
 
o1marc said:
Which bike is that? I didn't think you had gotten the other carb on the bike yet and were at the velocity stack stage yet. .....

Marc, you must have missed Video 7: two carbs, both with velocity stacks:

http://youtu.be/rBXe2FV9WnE

I have only one personality: the bad ass bike builder
 
surffly said:
Wait,you are picking out what BIKE you want based on your desire to do a bad modification solely based on looks?

Is this the point we are at in the hobby?
At least a few years ago the people jumping on the bandwagon has some "interesting" ideas.

Late to this one but good goddamn, just wanted to third this. "I want to build a bike, but first I need to find the perfect pods around which everything will come together..."
 
Not sure how making judgements is helping with the OP's question. I don't agree with what he's doing, but if I couldn't help, I'd save the two minutes spent posting on getting some more grinding done on my own bike. Seems more productive to at least one of the parties involved.

Yo OP, are you going to have somebody with experience tune your carbs? If so, they should be able to get almost any slide carb to work fine.

1. Get the bike running good with the STOCK setup first! Believe me, this will save you a lot of trouble because it will eliminate or identify the carburetors as an issue. Once the bike is running just right, then you can bugger up the carbs and you'll know what you've buggered up.

2. Don't start out with a four-cylinder. Any bike with uneven variables for the cylinders makes for trouble in tuning direct intakes. Start with any twin, that way the cylinders have equal conditions.

3. The best bike would be one that comes with slide-carbs or that you will install slide-carbs onto. People believe there is some mystic force that does not allow the two elements that are CV's and Pods to combine in our psychomonelecular plane. The fact is that pods are really no good for CV's because they don't allow smooth or conditioned air that CV's depend on to raise the slide smoothly. Even though you can tune it, it's a pain and doesn't allow the carb to work as it was intended.

4. You're new to this. If you buy anything listed as a "project" or "mechanic's special", you'll end up selling it as "buggered" or "turd". Get something that runs before you raise the forks through the trees and install a bitching boat paddle for a seat.
 
Buy a Goldwing. I can keep like sixty pods in each saddlebag.
 
Redliner said:
Not sure how making judgements is helping with the OP's question. I don't agree with what he's doing, but if I couldn't help, I'd save the two minutes spent posting on getting some more grinding done on my own bike. Seems more productive to at least one of the parties involved.

Yo OP, are you going to have somebody with experience tune your carbs? If so, they should be able to get almost any slide carb to work fine.

1. Get the bike running good with the STOCK setup first! Believe me, this will save you a lot of trouble because it will eliminate or identify the carburetors as an issue. Once the bike is running just right, then you can bugger up the carbs and you'll know what you've buggered up.

2. Don't start out with a four-cylinder. Any bike with uneven variables for the cylinders makes for trouble in tuning direct intakes. Start with any twin, that way the cylinders have equal conditions.

3. The best bike would be one that comes with slide-carbs or that you will install slide-carbs onto. People believe there is some mystic force that does not allow the two elements that are CV's and Pods to combine in our psychomonelecular plane. The fact is that pods are really no good for CV's because they don't allow smooth or conditioned air that CV's depend on to raise the slide smoothly. Even though you can tune it, it's a pain and doesn't allow the carb to work as it was intended.

4. You're new to this. If you buy anything listed as a "project" or "mechanic's special", you'll end up selling it as "buggered" or "turd". Get something that runs before you raise the forks through the trees and install a bitching boat paddle for a seat.

Thank you.
 
Redliner said:
Not sure how making judgements is helping with the OP's question. I don't agree with what he's doing, but if I couldn't help, I'd save the two minutes spent posting on getting some more grinding done on my own bike. Seems more productive to at least one of the parties involved.

The problem is, there really are some questions that don't deserve a "real" answer. If some guy asks you the best way to kill his girlfriend, I don't think you're helping matters by suggesting creative methods of committing murder. The obvious solution to the problem is to convince that guy that killing someone isn't something sane and rational people do.

And while we can hardly compare the use of pods to homicide, the world would be a better place in general if we stopped enabling stupid behavior.
 
AgentX said:
For being rational with Obvious Troll?

Just for not being an asshole for no reason.
If you don't like the post dont answer it IMO

I have my sensitive hat on today. Side effect of being sick i suppose
 
SONIC. said:
Just for not being an asshole for no reason.
If you don't like the post dont answer it IMO

Generally, I agree with ya, which is why I stayed far away from this one just because of the title.

But then I realized what an obvious attempt it is to troll this forum, so at least we can get a laugh out of it. Anyone taking him seriously, whether to help him or denigrate him, isn't helping.
 
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