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next week im going to pull my rd motor.im currently in the research phase...consulting my manual and stuff.
can´t find any torques for the screws...cylinderhead,motor mounts....how do you guys go about?
is there any info on the internet concerning this topic?
RD motors vibrate a good bit. A small drop of blue (med strength) LocTite will ensure the motor mounts stay nice and tight. It's not 100% necessary but it's cheap insurance.
I use anti-seize on all threads that get a proper torque. All ancillary bolts and nuts get anti-seize as well, but I like to trash bin all nuts that are either nylon-lock or non-locking in exchange for proper jet style nuts. Almost certainly overkill, but no problems shall be had.
I use anti-seize on all threads that get a proper torque. All ancillary bolts and nuts get anti-seize as well, but I like to trash bin all nuts that are either nylon-lock or non-locking in exchange for proper jet style nuts. Almost certainly overkill, but no problems shall be had.
RD motors vibrate a good bit. A small drop of blue (med strength) LocTite will ensure the motor mounts stay nice and tight. It's not 100% necessary but it's cheap insurance.
i have a tube with copper paste around can i use this as anti seize for the threads?what are jet style nuts?
is there something like an engine line up...what i mean is when you pull the motor,how do you adjust the angle of the engine or are the mounts designed for only one "angle"?
sonic just helped me out with really helpful infos about the change of the crank oilseals.
im gonna replace the seals on both sides (generator and primary).
would you replace the labyrinth too or is it not so likely that it wears out?
I use anti-seize on all threads that get a proper torque. All ancillary bolts and nuts get anti-seize as well, but I like to trash bin all nuts that are either nylon-lock or non-locking in exchange for proper jet style nuts. Almost certainly overkill, but no problems shall be had.
no no no any kind of friction reduction will NOT give you a proper torque. at work there was a 60mm stud that needed torgued to 3500 foot pounds the guy anti seized it set the huck gun and tightened the bolt when the stud exploded the guy took a hunk of metal in the gut and almost bleed out. everthing went to the lab stub nut tooling anti seize. the finding proved that the anti seize kep the resistance to low for the tool to register enough torqueand at 5400 foot pound the stub let loose
Replace the outter crank seals and the gear box seals the center crank seal is most likely fine torque the 8 stubs for the head and the case according to the manual the iirc it should be in the 15 ta 18 range eather way clean the threads first and use a very very lite coat of 2stroke oil on them just make sure the case surfaces are cleaned & glues correctly
no no no any kind of friction reduction will NOT give you a proper torque. at work there was a 60mm stud that needed torgued to 3500 foot pounds the guy anti seized it set the huck gun and tightened the bolt when the stud exploded the guy took a hunk of metal in the gut and almost bleed out. everthing went to the lab stub nut tooling anti seize. the finding proved that the anti seize kep the resistance to low for the tool to register enough torqueand at 5400 foot pound the stub let loose
While it's a nice anecdote, I'm not sure 3500 foot pound torque ratings apply. Everything aerospace and race car I have ever touched specified proper torque in unison with the use of anti-seize. In fact, the studies I have read regarding fastener torque place anti-seize above thread lock compound in the ability to prevent lost nuts. This is attributed to proper torquing that is indeed promoted by reducing friction falsified torque ratings. When used in unison with a interference fit nut, such as the jet nuts I mentioned, the ability to withstand significant vibrations is increased drastically. I wish I could find the one video that dealt specifically with this, but unfortunately my searches have turned up nothing.
No anti seize with normal nuts and no loctite either. We always oil the threads on everything sand then tighten to the correct torque. You will be surprised how little torque it takes to tighten things - including head sleeve nuts. More is rarely better and with fasteners that holds true (pun intended).
Do not feel the need to tighten them astightasfuck. Over tightening fasteners leads to failure of bolts, stripped threads and distorted castings. Use a torque wrench and tighten in two or three steps.
Lab seals last at least as long as the crank and rarely exhibit any wear unless the main bearings failed catastrophically.
Drain the oil before you strip the motor. Clean everything until it's spotless and refill with fresh oil after it is back in the bike.
important also i feel is retorqing after the first or first few heat cycles as well
i did this with my last sl350 build an narry a single ooze from any top-end gasket all dry fitted,even after 12,000 miles, dry as a bone
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