RD Motor Pull-Torques needed
- Thread starter 2_DONE_THE_TON
- Start date
last pics of the right piston 
looks like i need to replace the right piston and cylinder...or how would you guys solve this problem?
just checked out ebay...50 euro for a cylinder 50 euro for a new piston...so honing will be expactedly more expensive than doing a new one...
help!
thanks!
looks like i need to replace the right piston and cylinder...or how would you guys solve this problem?
just checked out ebay...50 euro for a cylinder 50 euro for a new piston...so honing will be expactedly more expensive than doing a new one...
help!
thanks!
Attachments
AW: RD Motor Pull-Torques needed
dont think i can reuse that piston and cylinder...what you guys say?
dont think i can reuse that piston and cylinder...what you guys say?
AW: RD Motor Pull-Torques needed
bore+oversize is way to expensive...im checking on ebay now for a cylinder and piston...dunno what the PO did to that poor little rd...
bore+oversize is way to expensive...im checking on ebay now for a cylinder and piston...dunno what the PO did to that poor little rd...
1sttimer said:
wow nice.jsut checked...bore is 100 euro at my shop...where did you order pistons sets (rings,...)?did you order it from a yamaha dealer?
just searched a little...yambits sells RD 250 E pistons..are they the same make as the 1 A 2 pistons?
do you guys stick to yamaha parts or do you use other manufacturers?
do you guys stick to yamaha parts or do you use other manufacturers?
teazer said:
thanks teazer!
just checked it out...
Make Model Year Of Manufacture
Yamaha RD 250 A/B 74-75
Yamaha RD 250 DX C 76-77
Yamaha RD 250 DX D 77-78
Yamaha RD 250 DX E 78-79
Yamaha RD 250 DX F 79-80
Yamaha RD 250 LC 80-86
i am a little confused right here...my model is 1 A 2..1978..so RD 250 D and what are the other figures?
the wemoto pistons dont show any brand on the website...no pro x..nothing :-(
DX means it's like an RD400 - C on
LC is Liquid cooled different bike but pistons probably fit
So A/B is like an RD350, DX is like the 400.
Try https://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_RD250_Engine_Parts_Top_End_.html for Mitaka and google search Pro-X or ProX + RD250 and see what you find
LC is Liquid cooled different bike but pistons probably fit
So A/B is like an RD350, DX is like the 400.
Try https://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha_RD250_Engine_Parts_Top_End_.html for Mitaka and google search Pro-X or ProX + RD250 and see what you find
teazer said:
i think ill take the mitaka parts...are they quality parts?any experiences on them teazer?
just by interest:
im replacing crank seals too...there are METAL crank seals available...should i take the rubber ones or the metal ones?
LINK:
http://www.pjme.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000002.pl?WD=rd250e&SHOP=%20&PN=Yamaha_RD250_Engine_Parts_Bottum_End_.html#a1789
The rubber seals go on the outer ends of the crank and have to be replaced. The Lab. seal is aluminum and fits between the two crank halves and rarely if ever wears out.
I haven't used Mitaka but I read good reviews of them on line. I'd use them if I couldn't get OEM Yamaha pistons. Pro-X are great for street motors. Wiseco are good but I melted too many of them. Wossner are too nice to put in an engine. I just want to keep them on my desk and look at them.
I haven't used Mitaka but I read good reviews of them on line. I'd use them if I couldn't get OEM Yamaha pistons. Pro-X are great for street motors. Wiseco are good but I melted too many of them. Wossner are too nice to put in an engine. I just want to keep them on my desk and look at them.
once again be sure and check the big-ends of the rods for radial clearance,rust, and or too much side clearance
it is a little bit of tricky procedure , but really only requires dial indicator and a steady hand
if the crank big ends are on their way out there is no sense in pouring money into a rebuild without refreshing them as well
it is a little bit of tricky procedure , but really only requires dial indicator and a steady hand
if the crank big ends are on their way out there is no sense in pouring money into a rebuild without refreshing them as well
