XS750 to XS896 big bore

New tyres arrived today. Very limited choice of options for the front. In the end I managed to track down a NOS Pirelli MT90 S/T 100/90 - 19 and a new MT90A/T 120/80 - 18 for the rear.
New head light is ordered which is 5.75" and I am planning on making up a setup similar to the 1978 IT400.
 

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Picked up the embroidery on the rough cut leather panels for the seat today. Hopefully I can get the trimmers onto finishing the seat soon.
 

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Happy days - picked up these off a Triumph 900 sprint. Cost $150 (100 Euro) delivered!!!!! Hope they go on the 896 without needing to re jet. Time will tell.

Question - when you polish alloy engine covers do you clear coat or leave them raw???
 

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I never clearcoat. Dont like the finish... too bad they are mikunis and not keihin, i got my keihins near perfect on the 896
 
datadavid said:
I never clearcoat. Dont like the finish... too bad they are mikunis and not keihin, i got my keihins near perfect on the 896

He was selling these as he had just got a set of Keihins to replace them!!! For the price I could not let them go, as they are more modern than the MkII's that I have. Thanks for your thoughts on clear coat.
 
Well, they work well on the sprint that delivers about 110hp, although water cooled so should be jetted leaner than an oil cooled at the same hp figures, so might just be very close!
 
XS750AU said:
Happy days - picked up these off a Triumph 900 sprint. Cost $150 (100 Euro) delivered!!!!! Hope they go on the 896 without needing to re jet. Time will tell.

Question - when you polish alloy engine covers do you clear coat or leave them raw???
You are lucky.
I'm running exactly these carbs on my stock xs 750.
I will have a look at which jets i'm running.
I however changed all ORings (especially under the needle seat),there is a british firm that sells Oring kits for them.
They are great carbs and perform really well.
As for the alloy,I never clear coat (it will not hold up for very long,as its also slowly corroding),just wipe it down now and then with a rag and wd40...

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Very cool embroidery. It's the details that define a project. Hate to point this out, but I see it so often I guess not too many folks know. While the three tuning fork logo is common to both Yamaha (Music) and Yamaha Motor, they are not the same. The pointed handles of the tuning forks pass through the perimeter circle in the Yamaha Motor Company logo, but are contained within the circle in the Yamaha Corporation logo. No doubt it is a small difference (probably not to the two branches of Yamaha), but I figure most people that are detail oriented likely also wish to have said details correct. I'm not suggesting that you re-do the embroidery, but might be good to know for next time!
 
jpmobius said:
Very cool embroidery. It's the details that define a project. Hate to point this out, but I see it so often I guess not too many folks know. While the three tuning fork logo is common to both Yamaha (Music) and Yamaha Motor, they are not the same. The pointed handles of the tuning forks pass through the perimeter circle in the Yamaha Motor Company logo, but are contained within the circle in the Yamaha Corporation logo. No doubt it is a small difference (probably not to the two branches of Yamaha), but I figure most people that are detail oriented likely also wish to have said details correct. I'm not suggesting that you re-do the embroidery, but might be good to know for next time!
The "M" is different, as well. The center reaches the bottom on the motors division logo, while it does not on musical.
 
The devil is in the detail. You are absolutely correct about the detail of the logos. If we had followed the logo to its absolute detail then the tuning forks would have been solid colour and not the perimeter stitch. The logo is 120mm diameter and I did not want the logo to dominate the seat, so to make it more subtle I went for the perimeter stitch. This then created a problem with the outer ring as to follow the embedded points or simplify it to a thin single ring? Discussed the design with the trimmers and they were worried about the durability of the Yamaha Motors logo being embroided into the leather. Remember every stitch puts 2 perforations into the leather. As this was a potential seating position we compromised on the detail to get a more durable seat.

Ryan - do you have the details of the O ring kits?

Thank you all for your input.
 

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I fitted 2 different fenders for a look today. The first is mounted high and is from a Yamaha IT200, the second is mounted low and is from an XS750.
My preference is the low mounted XS750. What do you think??
Front view with the XS750 fender. Happy with the new headlight and having the speedo out there. Might put a flyscreen on, but we will see.
Pat questioned what would happen when the rear suspension bottomed out. It pretty much hits the top and the front simultaneously, so I guess that's OK?
 

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Engine is in, but all is not perfect. Broke the last compression ring when assembling. Only one person to blame http://www.dotheton.com/forum/Smileys/default/cry.gif
The engine was always going to come out, but now it needs some work. Other than the ring, it has all gone together well and I am happy with the header and oil cooler. With the oil cooler squish plate the oil cleaner housing are level with exhaust and engine mounts. Looks like I will be able to change the oil filter without demounting the header.
The looks like the exhaust will all go together well, the muffler will go back a little further so the end is level with the axel. Now need to cut the flanges off the header and fit and weld the ones that I have made.
 

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Luugo86 said:
Welds on that exhaust look great. Did you do them yourself?

The header is off a Triumph 1050 and is yet to be modified to connect to the Yamaha head. The Triumph pitch is correct but the inlets are cast and an oval shape which cannot connect. I have made up some new header tubes for the interface, now just have to cut and shut. I do not TIG weld, but have a friend at work who is very capable. Might cost me a beer or two. ;D
 
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