1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)

When you do the timing adjustment you want the spark plugs out so you're not working against the compression. You can use a breaker bar handle to counter balance the alternator so it doesn't move. Or carefully wedge a small screwdriver tip in-between the stator and the alternator.
 
rsjudka said:
Guys I feel like I'm almost there!

So I did the valve clearance adjustment, and when I started it up there was a loud ticking noise (I'm assuming because my tappet screws were too loose?) but no smoke and sounded much more powerful! Could the ticking be because I didn't do the carb sync yet?

Also, when I was doing the adjustment, I couldn't get it exactly on the LT and T mark, because anytime I tried it shifted like 1 cm over by itself. Is that bad?
The reason it feel like it "shifts by itself" is the magnets on the rotor.

Hard to explain but I thread a cover bolt in then use a zip tie to hold the wrench to keep exactly on mark.

Ticking noise is not because carbs are out of sync. Recheck your valve adjustment.
 
Aaaand I'm back.

So I got through all the steps and now I just did my carb adjustment. I think I got it right, except when the bike revs it seems like the right side revs longer. Does that make sense?

Also, the smoke and popping are no more! (Except when you rev really high, is that normal?)

Also, the bike gets hot, I mean steaming hot. And the right muffler feels hotter than the left.
 
rsjudka said:
Aaaand I'm back.

So I got through all the steps and now I just did my carb adjustment. I think I got it right, except when the bike revs it seems like the right side revs longer. Does that make sense?

Also, the smoke and popping are no more! (Except when you rev really high, is that normal?)

Also, the bike gets hot, I mean steaming hot. And the right muffler feels hotter than the left.
Your carbs need to be synced.
 
First of all I just want to thank all of you so far for all your help!

I've eliminated the oil leaking, the smoke from the mufflers, the overheating on one side, and the idling issues.

The bike sounds as it should now when idling, but when I took it out for a test ride, I noticed a few things...
• ticking gets louder the faster I ride
• it rides rough in the first 2 gears, but gets better the faster I go

I also feel like I'm constantly charging the battery, like every 3 days, even though it's a new battery

Does it still seem like there's major problems with the engine, or is it just down to fine tuning now?
 
Just to clarify, it feels less powerful in gears 1-3, and feels like it chokes up sometimes in those low gears.
 
You shouldn't need to charge battery every couple of days unless there is a problem with battery or charging system. Have you fitted a 'modern' regulator rectifier? In my experience there is usually no problem with the generator windings or rotor magnets, physical damage is pretty easily seen or can be tested with multi-meter. The wiring to main block connector can be damaged or more likely corrosion in block connectors and/or red/white wire on rectifier is broken or corroded. I Don't know if anyone has tried it yet but I've been thinking of modifying a stock rotor by fitting neodymium magnets to increase magnetic flux and low speed charging.
 
crazypj said:
You shouldn't need to charge battery every couple of days unless there is a problem with battery or charging system. Have you fitted a 'modern' regulator rectifier? In my experience there is usually no problem with the generator windings or rotor magnets, physical damage is pretty easily seen or can be tested with multi-meter. The wiring to main block connector can be damaged or more likely corrosion in block connectors and/or red/white wire on rectifier is broken or corroded. I Don't know if anyone has tried it yet but I've been thinking of modifying a stock rotor by fitting neodymium magnets to increase magnetic flux and low speed charging.
I haven't changed any of the electrical parts to the bike, but by the looks of it the rectifier looks super super old. Should I try upgrading it with the one sold on cmc?

Also, do you have any idea about what could be causing low power issues at the lower gears?
 
rsjudka said:
I haven't changed any of the electrical parts to the bike, but by the looks of it the rectifier looks super super old. Should I try upgrading it with the one sold on cmc?

Also, do you have any idea about what could be causing low power issues at the lower gears?

Most importantly carb sync. You cant tune out of sync carbs. They must work together (the same from the start) then work on tuning adjustments...

I am a HUGE fan of sparckmoto.com stuff. Owner, Sonreir is a longtime DTT member. http://www.sparckmoto.com/Products
 
I am new this so I may have done it wrong, but I do believe I did the carb sync correctly. I followed the video posted by CMC about doing a carb sync on a cb360 using his carb sync adapters.

Got equal reading from both carbs and both mufflers feel like they have even pressure. Is there some other measurement I can use to see if my carbs are synced properly?
 
Good, if they are synced then they are synced. 8)

So get the charging system up to snuff. And your ready to start tuning carbs to run properly.

BTW how bout a few pics of the whole bike. ;)
 
What size battery do you have in her? Mine is an 8ah agm and works super. 12ah would be even better.
 
Here she is (minus the 12" shorties I recently put on):

dtt1.jpg


dtt2.jpg


There's also been a lot of paint chipping off the engine, so I think I'm going to just strip the paint off all the covers ;D
 
trek97 said:
What size battery do you have in her? Mine is an 8ah agm and works super. 12ah would be even better.

The battery is a 12v 12ah, so that should be powerful enough? Should I try to get a new battery first (bought like last year) or go for the new rectifier?
 
Cant see your pics.

A 12v 12ah is great. But if the charging system isnt functioning properly...

Get the electrics sorted out. Have you tested for output? Idle the bike and place meter leads (dc voltage) across battery terminals.
Then check it again twixed 3-5k rpm.

Did you solve the ticking sound?
 
I always have trouble with these pictures, I reuploaded a smaller sized image now

I don't have anything to test the battery, but I'm going to take the battery the Auto Zone to get it tested. And if they say the battery is good, then I'll rent a tester and test on the bike.

So when the bike idles the ticking is gone, but with any pull on the throttle the ticking comes back. I've watched a few cb360 test ride videos on youtube and the ticking can sometimes be heard, is that normal?

And just a side question, when doing the carb sync, does the vacuum gauge reading matter? Or is it just to have both carbs show the same value?
 
The vac reading just needs to be the same. So, sounds like you got that.

Yes, test battery and rent the meter and check it w bike running.

She is a really nice looking machine. 8) It will be difficult to make her run right w shortys. :p

If it were my bike. I would put he stock mufflers back on, immediately.

They look great black. BONUS- It will run a lot better. Double points- You wont go deaf. ;)

Double check ignition timing with a strobe light. timing must be set correctly. It could result in a cracked valve caused by overheating or hitting piston.
 
I cant tell what you got going on for air filters.
I would start scouring the earth for stock air filters.

You can find em easily on ebay.
 
trek97 said:
I cant tell what you got going on for air filters.
I would start scouring the earth for stock air filters.

You can find em easily on ebay.

http://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb360-air-filter

http://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb360-air-filter-factory-left

http://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb360-air-filter-factory-right
 
Yes thankfully the bike came with stock air filters

I would love to have kept the stock mufflers on, but there were just so man holes in them and there was a rattling noise inside both of them :(

For the timing adjustment, you first check left side on the compression stroke at the LF mark then rotate 180° to the F mark, or would you first rotate a whole revolution and then go to the F mark?
 
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