acetelyne n hammertone ADVtwin

I don't "tweet" ha-ha. (Oh wait, that's a lie - I started the other day, it was the only way to contact "Dads Vintage Ads" about digging up old Akront and/or Borrani adverts, so as to ascertain period-correctness for certain given sizes....)

Okay so maybe I DO tweet. I'll tell you what I don't do though, is when I'm sitting in a waiting room, I don't just pick up a magazine & flip through it looking at all the pics without reading an article or two. Try it sometime, it might even help with training to delay climax.

Just TEN, huh?

Well Dr Seuss got it down to around 20 or 21
2-Latch-On-adult-literacy-1024x512.png


-Sigh.
 
i realized long ago i do not have the mindset to do the stunningly perfect in every detail work that those guys do, i have the talent and the knowledge but not the desire,thats all
the caliper hangar is simply an example of how to build something out in structure instead of flat so it is very ridgid without welding or billet machining and besides it takes attention away from the fact that the fork sliders i chose to use were a piss poor choice from the git go lol
i am simply building a much better duelsport 350 sohc twin than honda ever did, lighter ,more comfy,faster better suspended better stopping better everything with basic tools
one thing it wont be is polished on a schedulle or kept clean
and yep it was dumb luck the husky rotor weill lashup like factory once the floater buttons are done i am just glad i looked up in the rafters and the 6 point mounts were laughing at me
a bonus cause i like the idea of light wheel assemblies was the rm wheel had aluminum nips
it does need new bearings so i ordered somke 6003 so i can use a hollow strong 17mmm axle
i enjoy repurposing hardware more than making it from scratch the fork brace will use elements of the clamping rings from those upsidowner triples shown in the first fork pitchurs
 
if i woulda had a degree or diploma it would be top of the class in nigerian engineering,and now this wanna be nigerian engineer is building the best dakar,350 african twin this side of selma and cave junction ,see
 
bench build zone
 

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Love your stuff xb. The info is so dense it's like an nigerian haiku. Seriously this is a great thread.

Robert
 
RR100 said:
Love your stuff xb. The info is so dense it's like an nigerian haiku. Seriously this is a great thread.

Robert

thank you
finally got my new work area straightened up enuf to make it fly
much more mucking out still to do

of course i coudnt resist hanging it,those invalid criple hoists are the bomb,put a peker stabber on it for the stem voila
 

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whats goin on with the swinger? I thought this was gonna be a gsxr mono? maybe I have to go back and reread a little :eek:
 
You said you shortened RM spokes about an inch? How did you re-thread them? Cut or thread roller?
 
This would be sweet for the task, if it had rolls for bigger spokes


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spoke-threads-Rolling-machine-Cyclo-and-matching-Cutting-heads-in-3-sizes-/171944542242?var=&hash=item2808b18022:m:m9w48be6yvNshvthJtQpIuw
 
crazypj said:
You said you shortened RM spokes about an inch? How did you re-thread them? Cut or thread roller?
i know you know this fact pj but others that may not know that for a given rod or round stock diameter a rolled thread finishes up oversize as you know but an interesting process where the stock is simply deformed or fomed into a thread without removing any metal
so a cut thread on a spoke will be crazy loose in the same nipple cause it is cut into the stock all of the thread profile actually below original diametrer
wheew wel im glad i knew that besides the rolled thread is tougher being worked and it can keep going into a nipple till it comes ot the end
i bought the tool new 75 bucks 2 years ago finally used it in anger
i tried just gripping the hex in the 3 jaw nope it has a hollow body and a screw set

i used a worn out fox factory shock shaft the roller head wants to be floaty not secured tight
'the screw set went into the shaft ports already made and hollow just had to od turn it a bit
now i had never rolled a thread ive done knurling and the last thing i wanted was to get 22 spokes done then have all the smoke escape from the threader (overheat it)
so i used some good oil 30wt with some moly in it black stuff but then i could not see my sharpie mark but i kept it dripping wet the wshole time on not so much backing out
after 4-5 spokes with too long a thread i made the very complicated depth indicator poly hose dealy as as shown
i played around with spindle rpm and settled in at 418 rpm and went thru 6 spokes and i was brushing on lotys of oilgraph but not doing cool9ng like flowing coolant would
after six she hot but not dangerous hot
then go double check the nipple fit run nipple on-off with drill motor mostly cleaning dry mud out of threasds
hey pj yeah i got dumb lucky on that deal i wanted the al nips many were frozen and worse bcause of the tensioin
so i kew i would need about 1'' shorter spokes going down to 19 from 21 so i cut them about 1/4 - 3/8 from nip which is pretty much muinus 1 ''
this allowed a good grip on stub spoke and by god taking off the tension was the main deal it was trying to take wheel apart by threads
there was no more frozen ;D
 

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She Bangs! Now we all know who makes cussom spokes. Can you make reverse thread for out inner to really fuck with the next owner ::)

Also wanna trun my exhaust fins down to make em cooler? well really less cooler :-\
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
This would be sweet for the task, if it had rolls for bigger spokes


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spoke-threads-Rolling-machine-Cyclo-and-matching-Cutting-heads-in-3-sizes-/171944542242?var=&hash=item2808b18022:m:m9w48be6yvNshvthJtQpIuw
i wouldnt enjoy at all hand powering 36
thats why i never even looked for a machine cause i knew the lathe would be a lot better and less painfull it was still a bit tedious 2-3 minutes per spoke im guessing
hell you could use a good reversing drill-motor
and man =as tough as stainless steel can be i would be nervous as fuck using the honhandjob
 
the african twin need some help the front anchor werent lashed up yet so i turned some 7075 al floater dealies
it cant be overstated the importance of having the PERFECT grind and hone and tool profile when plunging cuts are needed
as for the buttons they need to be as low profile as is possible to not bang into caliper carrier with a decent safety factor
i have them done and cs for flathead m6 screws as per the suzi hub
but sanity has prevail and i will modify the buttons to accept 6 beautiful ti militatary aircraft screws in 1/4-28
there is enough meat to sink the heads flush :D
 

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what driver i did but i am using a nut on the backside so its not like i am applying full torque with the fancy cruciform
besides the screws are a press fit into the buttons ,the HEAD of the screws i made a be press fit

however i opened up 2 worm cans one detail possible issue that i overlooked is not the reaming of the m6 threaded hub holes to .250 but whether or not the nuts have a good surface to plant on
its not a perfect surface and i can dress the 6 nut lz's with a file for a good flat plant
but if i had thought of it with the hub able to go in the lathe,when it had no spokes
if i had looked ahead i would have chucked ther hub in the lathe and taken a cut off the backside of the 6 lugs for a factory precision plant
so when i decided to use the ti screws i needed to grab them tight(the six buttons) and true in the lathe
using a scrap of ptfe delrin stock,i made a simple soft jaw for the lathe it is thinwalled enough to allow the hose clamp to secure it,the key to that being no slop in the fit of the buttons to the soft jaw fixture,...and that allowed a precision single point countersink operation of the the 6 buttons with accurate repeatability re the press fit screw head
the other worm can which i new was an issue was the buttons needed a section of the back cut off to clear the hub centering ring step
so i used the same softjaw fixture and made it be a minie miterbox so to speak
 
read the above to see what these images are about
when doing precision boring especially on something so small like these buttons i turn in reverse
the sharp eye may notice the tool is set up to cut in reverse lathe spindle direction,its cutting the opposite wall
this allows a guy to observe the tool from a normal comfortable standing spot at the lathe controls
 

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