Newbie Engine Problems Please Help

Clubman bars suuuuck they look cool for ten minutes but suck for riding period end of the conversation. buy some superbke bars and be happy an old guy gave you good advice.

Geta a clutch, gasket and cable coming man. I would add a perch and lever set if you can. all new is just like a fresh shirt.

If the steel plate is flat and thickness OK bead blasting them works very well.

hillsy said:

......................................................... those wear marks don't look bad enough to affect the clutch like you are saying.


Probably a combination of gummy plates / incorrectly adjusted cable.Kinda hard to tell conclusively from the pic but

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That would be my prognosis as well
No need to bead blast steel plates, in my experience it just makes clutch real 'grabby'.
Do clutch hub mods same as on CB360's (et.al.) extra oil flow helps keep plates cooler and cleaner.
Try lubing the cable with light oil (3in1 or similar) if things don't improve, fit a new cable
You are using 10W/40 or similar motorcycle oil?
Clubman's are OK as long as you get footrests in correct position. With stock footrest position they suck ass real bad and look retarded.
Moving footrests up and back improves riding position even with stock bars

Confused yet... keep reading.

All good advice. All new ends the debate. If it's just a flip for cash listen to the tricks.

Laugh with me here... HAHA!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDCFjYVKAkY

HA wow thanks everyone my abilities seem not to be so small. Ok I'm getting new clutch the cable will have to wait till later cause money is getting tight, I got to make sure I save so if anything major comes up but I got a new problem. Just put in the new shims in and some are still a little tight and so thought hey maybe just run it for a few maybe it's fine. So I put back the old clutch but now the lever feels to easy to pull in with very little tension. What should I do about that and the shims should just go do another size

If you installed everything correctly the pull comparison may just be that it was really bound up before. Did you make a grid on paper with all the shim gaps, if so post that.

So is it ok that the clutch is soft like that and yes I did make something like that here it is.

Seems on A-1 you opened it 50 thousandths so you should be somewhere around .080 or loose. I get my calipers out and make the math simple... Probably not right but I'm self taught. I check with a feeler and measure the feeler to get thousandths then add or subtract what I need to adjust to spec then select the shim based on thousandths only... If that makes sense try that. If not just wait someone will be along shortly.

The clutch if stacked adjusted and clocked at the arm to 90 you should be good. The problem for me or anyone is we can only go by your input.


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Tune-A-Fish said:

Seems on A-1 you opened it 50 thousandths so you should be somewhere around .080 or loose. I get my calipers out and make the math simple... Probably not right but I'm self taught. I check with a feeler and measure the feeler to get thousandths then add or subtract what I need to adjust to spec then select the shim based on thousandths only... If that makes sense try that. If not just wait someone will be along shortly.

The clutch if stacked adjusted and clocked at the arm to 90 you should be good. The problem for me or anyone is we can only go by your input.


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Even though the shims are metric, I always check clearance with an inch feeler gauge, those numbers are for a metric feeler
The GS range only use 0.001"~ 0.003" and if you make them larger they make a load of noise
GS 850 can be loud anyway as Suzuki F***** up machining cam thrust cap, don't have it running on sidestand as nose of cam can hit edge of shim/bucket which 'flicks' it sideways plus spins bucket in bore
It's best to mic the shims your removing as stock come in some pretty odd sizes (which is great for getting clearance perfect on 'race' motors)
As exhausts are tight at present you will need to set them at least 0.001" 'loose' although +0.002" will also work well (the valves WILL tighten up again as they re-bed into seats, I always used clearance of 0.004"~0.005" if bike was hard to start when cold and ran OK when hot)
Oh, the smallest shims Suzuki or aftermarket are 2.20mm, I should have some down to 190 (if my brother hasn't tossed them)
I had to have them specially made, they are not hard all the way through but case hardened to 0.020" depth (I had a couple of genuine Suzuki one's cut up and analysed about 30yrs ago by a Ford engineer working at Bridgend Engine Plant)

If everything is set up and working right, the clutch can be pulled with just a pinky, heavy duty springs make it only slightly more difficult to pull

Ok then the clutch lever is fine cause it can shift well in to the gears and just a little hard to shift up to 3rd and 4th but its ok it just needs the new clutch. Now though what I'm getting at is that I should get new shims cause its still out of spec. Also find a new way of measuring the clearance as well because the way I saw it in the book they only go down and up by 5s. Plus when I went to buy them they also only went by 5s so there somewhere that sells them by different numbers.

shims go up and down by 0.05mm which is around 0.002" so it isn't a problem to get two to three thousandths clearance between cam base circle and tappet
If you have 275~280 shims, fit the 75 into 80 'holes' and get 270~265 (or smaller) for the tight ones It's best to have a spare shim so you can swap things around.
Rotate motor a couple of times to make sure everything is settled in and re-check clearances

OK I did a new valve adjustment and changed out the clutch plate except for one that was behind the little wire and it looked good so didn't change it also I did the friction plates as well. But it still sounds off and I still cant move for some reason every time I put the bike into gear it jumps forward then dies any I ideas and no the kickstand is not down I checked. Any way this is how it sounds now please help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_akKeuovqw&feature=youtu.be

You did get the rack and pinion pull mechanism fitted properly?
The needle roller thrust bearing under pressure plate is in good shape with the hardened washer in correct place?
Really sounds like clutch isn't adjusted properly.
Back off all the adjusters on cable
remove the operating arm , rotate the splined rod in direction of operation then re-fit arm one spline further out. put cable back on, should only need 3~4mm adjustment at motor end.
Cable adjuster on top of crankcase isn't damaged? (I've seen a lot of them broken over the years when people tried to pry cable adjuster out instead of unscrewing it)

Not to sure what you mean with the rack and pinion pull mechanism also yes I'm sure that its in right with the washer. But with clutch cable I think it might be really bad because I have it unscrewed almost all the way on the lever side.

I'll have to find pics.
You have the cable on top of crankcase under carbs coming in from left to right or alongside right side cylinder?.
I may possibly be confusing GS850 with the 750/1000 motors but I don't think so. (been a few years since I did 850)
There is a bar with teeth sticking out of center of clutch (the rack) which engages with gear in cover (the pinion)
Where the operating arm fits on top is splines. If you had cover off the rack may not be lined up properly with pinion so you remove lever from top and rotate it around a bit

Thanks for the info but the thing is my cable can be adjusted at 3 places but either way I think that my cable is starched because I seem to have to unscrew the bolt on the lever side all the way out and it still seem that its not gabbing enough.

Needs adjusting at mechanism, there is no way a cable could 'stretch' that far particularly as you fitted new plates
I forgot about the in-line adjuster, don't remember if that was on all GS850's or only earlier models?

crazypj said:

Needs adjusting at mechanism, there is no way a cable could 'stretch' that far particularly as you fitted new plates
I forgot about the in-line adjuster, don't remember if that was on all GS850's or only earlier models?

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You have agree that cheap cables stretch... a lot! the twist is not tight and it will relax like a worn out whore.

You could of had a new cable by now son... if its' maxed at all three adjusters, use it to whip the neighbors dog and buy a new one

OK ill try to readjust it again hopefully that's all it needs. But how does the engine sound to me it still sounds off or am I just crazy.