Quixotay
New Member
Short notes.. no red flags.. but to get where you really want to be..
There are at least 3 projects that disappeared from HT, one being an FI project (bad design)... you are right,, these rarely ever finish. They aren't thought out very well. And by looking at what they did its no surprise. There was a Ninja 300 out there that tried... but eventually failed in that the RPM went down with boost.. he sold everything off in frustration... be fore warned of valve overlap ...
The examples posted in your log would be lucky to make SL HP at SLC for an LSR... no inter-cooling and no regard for adjusting boost for altitude... on a warm day (85-90F ) at Bonneville the density altitude could be rather high. You need to have the ability to select different boost pressures and AFR to compensate for different density altitudes. This is a very simple mod search around...
If there's little or no airflow over the intake inter-cooler fins you might as well not have one. A possibility is to design so the inter-cooler air is flowed by a modern motorcycle electric radiator fan, then kicks off at speed, when you have adequate airflow. You could even cowl the engine fins and have that fan serve two purposes... for the price of 1.
Oil cooler - have you measured your current oil temp? If not, comparing what you have today to where you end up leaves a big hole. You might consider installing a check valve to prevent backing up the oil when shut down, if the oil level of the cooler is higher than the highest point of the engine oil reservoir.
If your planning on supplying all oil lubrication requirements (turbo etc) from the 200 pump.. even with more output capacity, it takes time for oil to flow through the added lines/fins of a oil cooler before it starts lubricating anything. Flow direction through the oil cooler is important (the one you selected)
Red goo - it's there for a reason
http://www.teamhansenhonda.com/services/photo029.jpg
On FI (fuel injection) - make dayum sure you install a tip-over switch... Your choice on FI management.. but select one that has control over the ignition as you might have to retard at higher boost. If you haven't downloaded the free apps for Ecotrons, Power Commander and on the high end.. Motec.. do so.. Motec is here:
http://www.motec.com/home
Head gasket... not sure about the gasket your currently using (copper) would be appropriate for boosted engines... anyway, might want to look at alternatives.. http://www.cometic.com/default.aspx
Exhaust valve... maybe enlarge diameter... think there's a conversation somewhere about using not only the valve train springs from an SV650 (drop in), but using their valves also with minor mod - Teazer may know something about this...
Teazer's reference to removing seals from wheel bearings in earlier thread.. maybe consider ceramic wheel bearings... head to YT and search for motorcycle ceramic wheel bearings... their like the energizer bunny... consider using them for other places too.
PS: Teazer thanks for the assist awhile back on separating the crankshaft via Simo on HT... and it went exactly as advertised.... much appreciated
Simo on "reverse head".. a xmass tune comes to mind -
"Chestnuts roasting on an open fire".....
That's about it... we have similarities but are headed in different directions... my goal is a - Do The 1/2 Ton - Prius version... with the ability for an occasional burst of "mean"... will be watching from the balcony view...
...and a caution that my project log build may end up as "how NOT to do it"
Cheers
There are at least 3 projects that disappeared from HT, one being an FI project (bad design)... you are right,, these rarely ever finish. They aren't thought out very well. And by looking at what they did its no surprise. There was a Ninja 300 out there that tried... but eventually failed in that the RPM went down with boost.. he sold everything off in frustration... be fore warned of valve overlap ...
The examples posted in your log would be lucky to make SL HP at SLC for an LSR... no inter-cooling and no regard for adjusting boost for altitude... on a warm day (85-90F ) at Bonneville the density altitude could be rather high. You need to have the ability to select different boost pressures and AFR to compensate for different density altitudes. This is a very simple mod search around...
If there's little or no airflow over the intake inter-cooler fins you might as well not have one. A possibility is to design so the inter-cooler air is flowed by a modern motorcycle electric radiator fan, then kicks off at speed, when you have adequate airflow. You could even cowl the engine fins and have that fan serve two purposes... for the price of 1.
Oil cooler - have you measured your current oil temp? If not, comparing what you have today to where you end up leaves a big hole. You might consider installing a check valve to prevent backing up the oil when shut down, if the oil level of the cooler is higher than the highest point of the engine oil reservoir.
If your planning on supplying all oil lubrication requirements (turbo etc) from the 200 pump.. even with more output capacity, it takes time for oil to flow through the added lines/fins of a oil cooler before it starts lubricating anything. Flow direction through the oil cooler is important (the one you selected)
Red goo - it's there for a reason
http://www.teamhansenhonda.com/services/photo029.jpg
On FI (fuel injection) - make dayum sure you install a tip-over switch... Your choice on FI management.. but select one that has control over the ignition as you might have to retard at higher boost. If you haven't downloaded the free apps for Ecotrons, Power Commander and on the high end.. Motec.. do so.. Motec is here:
http://www.motec.com/home
Head gasket... not sure about the gasket your currently using (copper) would be appropriate for boosted engines... anyway, might want to look at alternatives.. http://www.cometic.com/default.aspx
Exhaust valve... maybe enlarge diameter... think there's a conversation somewhere about using not only the valve train springs from an SV650 (drop in), but using their valves also with minor mod - Teazer may know something about this...
Teazer's reference to removing seals from wheel bearings in earlier thread.. maybe consider ceramic wheel bearings... head to YT and search for motorcycle ceramic wheel bearings... their like the energizer bunny... consider using them for other places too.
PS: Teazer thanks for the assist awhile back on separating the crankshaft via Simo on HT... and it went exactly as advertised.... much appreciated
Simo on "reverse head".. a xmass tune comes to mind -
"Chestnuts roasting on an open fire".....
That's about it... we have similarities but are headed in different directions... my goal is a - Do The 1/2 Ton - Prius version... with the ability for an occasional burst of "mean"... will be watching from the balcony view...
...and a caution that my project log build may end up as "how NOT to do it"
Cheers
