78 xs650 ~ To the Ton we go.

I used a 18 off a mid 90's yz125 the holes in the hoop need to be inlarged for the larger spoke nipples. knowing the year of the hub is important due to the fact that you will need a reasonable street tooth count for the rear sprocket. this is also half the battle for a 520 chain conversion sprocket specialitys sells the front gear for 20 bucks
 

Attachments

  • 2013-10-19 01.23.12.jpg
    2013-10-19 01.23.12.jpg
    256.7 KB · Views: 560
Havent even thought about the conversion yet still using the HD 530 with oem sprockets.

Its a true performance upgrade though, something like 6lbs loss of rotational mass with the 520 chain and LW sprockets?

Whats your current thoughts on your gearing?
 
gearing seems fine ill check the numbers the drum wheel is self is a ton heaver than the mx
 
Ive read that the rears at 30 is nice for the gravelly back roads, 32 for intown and the 34 for the highway.
All using the same 17 front.

yeah Brad's XS is pure sickness, it shows.

ps. Brad if you want to sell any of those one offs let me know, it might suit this one.
 
Got some work done over the weekend.
75 high shouldered rims with newer used tires in place and the only hindrance is the drum pivot to lever as my new used exhaust is right in the damn way. A longer pivot "make the oem shaft longer" or try to find something thats skinny that be more in a J shape to go under and wrap around.

Im short six bolts on the dual disc conversion as well, the late model rotors bolt on but the bolts are longer. Im comtemplating cutting them and cleaning the threads individually of just hopefully find some 75 shorter bolts to just bolt on to save a ton of time.

Got my new 50 dolla holla controls on. There nicer than my oem triumph ones.

And Ive started comtemplating ditching the turn signal system that I worked on so hard, "ie understanding it".
There just cheapo plastics and already falling apart again after one season.
 

Attachments

  • 15329.jpg
    15329.jpg
    129.7 KB · Views: 505
  • 15321.jpg
    15321.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 522
  • 15322.jpg
    15322.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 518
  • 15319.jpg
    15319.jpg
    63 KB · Views: 515
Thanks to Bradj, Ive opened my horizon to some damn near bolt on upgrades.

In the works.
 

Attachments

  • 15433.jpg
    15433.jpg
    92 KB · Views: 451
  • 15434.jpg
    15434.jpg
    87.6 KB · Views: 479
  • 14977.jpg
    14977.jpg
    65 KB · Views: 459
Starting to think about ditching the gauges all together.
Ill still have them for tuning but ill remove for the rides.
What do you guys think of the new headlight?
 

Attachments

  • new headlight.jpg
    new headlight.jpg
    79.5 KB · Views: 516
Its not like im doing anything spectacular with it, easy to miss. :-\

But I am doing a top end oil cooler, new wire "again, as ive eliminated every thats stock now", fabbing an extended two peice brake perch to clear the exhaust and possibly a deep sump pan. Thats the plan for this winter.

The latest wiring diagram.
 

Attachments

  • wiring Model (1).jpg
    303.3 KB · Views: 658
Got some work done on the top end oil cooler, thanks john.

Swapped the old 78 two port breather for an 80 one port breather.
 

Attachments

  • KIMG0023.jpg
    KIMG0023.jpg
    187.6 KB · Views: 194
  • KIMG0024.jpg
    KIMG0024.jpg
    170.7 KB · Views: 201
  • KIMG0026.jpg
    KIMG0026.jpg
    206.7 KB · Views: 183
  • KIMG0025.jpg
    KIMG0025.jpg
    177.7 KB · Views: 184
There are some mods to be done to that single breather. Involves drilling the hole larger and putting a bend in the metal plate inside it.

http://www.650motorcycles.com/XSbreather.html
 
Ahhh want to walk me through the oil kooler I've been wanting to put one on my xs
 
Grab a vintage lockhart oil, around 35 bucks these days.
Mount it upside down like I have shown (something about oil draining backwards) on that ugly front engine mount.
Loosen the bottom oil delivery tube to the head, take the top bolts off, then unbolt it at the bottom to remove the tube, this way your not twisting it.

If you didnt want to install an oil cooler simply drilling out the bottom feed bolt to .140 or there abouts gets it running cooler on the top end, just reinstall it all at that point.

On to installing the cooler, get a pipe cutter and cut the tube to where your sure your connections are going to go.
Ive noticed that cutting the bottom too short leaves the connections like hose clamps resting on the front cam guide bolts.
Same thing for the upper connection but you have to leave enough room for the bends in the hose your going to use.
Not sure if theyre going to get super hot and mess up the 1/2" rubber, blow out and leave me stranded just yet.

I used what I had on hand which was some 3/8 braided hose, with two 3/8 to 1/2 reducers, 1/2 coolant grade oil hose to connect to the oil delivery tube.
All hose clamped of course.

If you wanted to make it really sharp, was thinking you could get into some banjo swivel fittings, brass y connector, stainless hoses or maybe some compression fittings.
Or hell maybe some copper if your doing that "show" chopper bit. You know you could easily drop a hundred doing all that either way.
 
I read about a alum plug with a hole drilled in it that goes after the kooler befor the head is there anything to that only thing i can figure is to build the pressure
 
Yeah its contradicting.

On the 650 forums I read simply opening up that bottom port to .14 is great for the top end.
"This is probably dated before his oil cooler mod"

On later Oil Cooler post it reads to open the bottom feed to .2 allowing the oil to be unrestricted to the oil cooler and then to apply a restriction of .125 after the cooler, thus getting it back within spec.

He also mentions then that it takes longer to warm up and hes got to put a air sheild on his cooler for any weather below 75.

Trial and error. Lets do it.


Im going to run with this see what it does and keep the other info in mind.
 
Been awhile since I shared any updates as this bitter winter has not been to kind to us here in Indiana.
No way could I afford to heat the garage on propane this year either with shortages of it.

Found a xs400 tank, bit slimmer than the stock xs650 tank, installed a new petcock on it from partsnmore to get it back to non vacuum petcock.
Surprisingly the xs400 seat is a much slimmer seat that fits the frame nicely, now to build some hinges for it.

Its basically all mocked up now, just needing to finish all the loose ends. C'mon spring!
 

Attachments

  • 78xs650-2014.jpg
    78xs650-2014.jpg
    130 KB · Views: 682
Its been awhile but here is something new.

Had a brake lever clearance issue with my new headers.
So instead of denting it more than halfway to make it fit I got with a local friend here in Indy and converted this xv920 brake pivot into this.
Ill probably need to just ding the header now instead of the alternative.
 

Attachments

  • KIMG01361.jpg
    KIMG01361.jpg
    94.8 KB · Views: 620
  • KIMG01351.jpg
    KIMG01351.jpg
    97 KB · Views: 627
  • KIMG01371.jpg
    KIMG01371.jpg
    90.2 KB · Views: 639
I'm actually in the market for an XS rear brake pivot if you have anything laying around or ideas on what compatible options there are. I got a mounting kit from Hugh's Handbuilt for my bare Voodoo frame but don't have the stock pivot part. Your post just reminded me!
 
Back
Top Bottom