Dirtbag Oil-Boiler
- Thread starter doc_rot
- Start date
If you do a fur wrap, you have to change the name from Dirtbag Oil-Boiler to Merkin Oil-Boiler.
hooligan998
Been Around the Block
Need a Time-sert kit but dont want to shell out $90 for it?
I discovered one of my valve cover bolts had stripped the hole in the head. Its an unusual size (M7-1.00) so i didn't want to spend full price on a time sert kit.
You can buy loose Time-serts for about $1.50 each. the OD of the 7mm insert is M8-1.00. I already had this tap size on hand but if you don't a cheap one can be had for like $10. you will also need a m7-1.00 bolt that is at least 20mm long. I got one for $0.80 at Home Depot.
drill and tap the stripped hole with the M8-1.00 tap. Counter bore that tapped hole about .030" deep with a 9mm drill bit for the flange of the insert. Be careful here as its easy for the bit to catch and go too deep very quickly. insert the Timesert, making sure the threads are clean and dry and the flange is below the surface. File the threads down on your spare M7 bolt so that the threaded portion is slightly flat on 4 sides. Put oil on this flattened bolt and screw it in until the Timesert expands and is fixed.
Job done for next to nothing if you have the drill bits and taps.
This can be applied to most thread-sert sizes just measure the OD of the insert, it will always use the same thread pitch. For example a M10-1.25 insert will use a M12-1.25 tap.
I discovered one of my valve cover bolts had stripped the hole in the head. Its an unusual size (M7-1.00) so i didn't want to spend full price on a time sert kit.
You can buy loose Time-serts for about $1.50 each. the OD of the 7mm insert is M8-1.00. I already had this tap size on hand but if you don't a cheap one can be had for like $10. you will also need a m7-1.00 bolt that is at least 20mm long. I got one for $0.80 at Home Depot.
drill and tap the stripped hole with the M8-1.00 tap. Counter bore that tapped hole about .030" deep with a 9mm drill bit for the flange of the insert. Be careful here as its easy for the bit to catch and go too deep very quickly. insert the Timesert, making sure the threads are clean and dry and the flange is below the surface. File the threads down on your spare M7 bolt so that the threaded portion is slightly flat on 4 sides. Put oil on this flattened bolt and screw it in until the Timesert expands and is fixed.
Job done for next to nothing if you have the drill bits and taps.
This can be applied to most thread-sert sizes just measure the OD of the insert, it will always use the same thread pitch. For example a M10-1.25 insert will use a M12-1.25 tap.
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I turned some bungs for the crossover cans. Welded em up and they fit great. I need to find a better spring solution. the only springs I can find are either too long or the hooks are super short and feel like they are going to pull off the tabs. I tried safety wire but it doesn't pull the can super tight like a spring does.
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crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
If you had a stripped cam cover bolt in some ways it's a good thing. At least it shows cover has been off several time so maintenance was probably carried out pretty regular (maybe?) I don't remember bolts being 7x1 though, maybe it was only later 'Bandit' motors? I've got a couple of bolts kicking around so I'll check. Honda use 7 x 1 bolts on many chain adjusters, I know I have a lot of those in stainless steel.
Oh, just remembered, the Timesert installer actually re-sizes the insert, expands it at the base so it 'can't ' come out. You really need a slightly oversize hardened bolt. I knew there was a reason I preferred Helicoils ;D Remembered something else, Timesert make copper plated inserts for high heat applications. They are about the best thing you can use for spark plug inserts as they have a much higher heat transfer rating than the 'black ' inserts. I found we needed 1 grade cooler plug to compensate for hotter running on some bikes with the 'black ' inserts
Oh, just remembered, the Timesert installer actually re-sizes the insert, expands it at the base so it 'can't ' come out. You really need a slightly oversize hardened bolt. I knew there was a reason I preferred Helicoils ;D Remembered something else, Timesert make copper plated inserts for high heat applications. They are about the best thing you can use for spark plug inserts as they have a much higher heat transfer rating than the 'black ' inserts. I found we needed 1 grade cooler plug to compensate for hotter running on some bikes with the 'black ' inserts
I have been doing a little here and a little there, mostly doing small fiddly things like throttle cables, rebuilding the carbs, finishing up the rear brake, etc... I also finally started digging into the wiring, in doing so I needed to mount components under the seat. To build mounts for the electrics first had to determine how I'm going to mount the rear cowl. To determine how to mount the cowl I need to finish the aluminum cowl. To finish the cowl I need to mount the fairing so I can make sure everything lines up and is proportional.
so basically to start the wiring I have to buy a windscreen. :
so basically to start the wiring I have to buy a windscreen. :
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crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Any idea of the part number you need? When I bought Katana it didn't have windshield, I got hold of some NOS Suzuki ones and cut one up to have something 'different', they were cheap enough to experiment with. I still have two or three sitting on top shelf. I'll check later if they have part number molded in.
deepwaterimports
Over 1,000 Posts
How good. What a weapon
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Front fairing is sorted, I used 1/4 turn entrapped Dzus fasteners for that race vibe. I will do the final trim once the tail is finished. got the new design of the tail pretty developed as well. Gonna move it to aluminum soon.
I slimmed the tail design up a little bit and jumped into aluminum. I made some 3/4" radius dies for a press brake and bent the sides. it was very flat and not matching the rounded facets of the gas tank so I started hammering it out. Ive made quite a few different anvils out of wood and steel to get a slight curve in everything, and the shape is very close to where I want it. its a bit lumpy but once the overall shape is set I will start planishing it. I don't really know what I'm doing, I'm feeling it out as I go, any advice welcome.
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form Is right where I want it. I am starting the tedious job of planishing by hand. Using a vixen file to find the high spots and using a slapper and dolly to bring low spots up and high spots down. I also made a set of planishing dies on the lathe for the inner fender form.
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