Kawasaki GT750 / KZ750P - Brat/Scrambler thingy

Facius

New Member
I've realized that my SV1000S is too aggressive for my daily commute, and i don't have time to ride it outside that, so that will be put on sale.

Just brought home this old sloth of a bike, payed 7000 DKK => 1000$ which is cheap around here (all motorcycle and cars is taxed 180%, so all bike/cars is more expensive in Denmark)
I starts and runs well, and is a pretty smooth ride, -though a bit on the boring side.

The idea is to make it a cheap, reliable comfy commuter bike (with a bit of style), that i can ride to work now and then.

It has to be street legal, which means i can only use E-marked parts for lights, indicators and so on.
Cutting the frame is also a total no-go for this build, as the rules in Denmark also prohibits that.
Any changes to frame has to be approved with calculation of strengths, handling tests and a lot of nonsensical bureaucratic bullshit, which can easily cost 1000$. -So that's out of the question.

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It's originally imported from Germany, and we don't have a lot of them in DK, so local information and help is very poor.

I'm hoping that there might be some guys on here that has some knowledge of these bikes, common issues, things to look out for, and even where to find parts & information.
Right now i'm trying to determine what year it is, its first registered in denmark 1990, but its only supposed to be manufacutred between 82-87.
Serial number is KZ750P008764, but i haven't figured out how to read the production year from that, any help?
 
I wish we got these in the US. Looks like the GPZ before they monoshock. As a KZ750P, that tells you it was manufactured between 82 and 85. Then, 1-4 for the specific year, but you appear to be posting an engine number, not a VIN. Is the number you provide from the engine or frame?
 
Nope, thats the vin number, its stamped in the headtube, and the vin/type plate. Weird thing is that it says type : kz750e and has a special gt750 badge with a german flag next to it. Could there have been a special production run for germany?
 
we had lots of gt750 out here. boring and reliable i think would cover it. couriers and that type used to love them with the shaft drive.
 
I ordered a spare seat with a tear down the side on ebay and received it yesterday.
The plan is to modify the base slightly and create a better looking seat.
I'll try to slim it as much as possible, -without ruining the mounting system. Maybe stretch or shorten it, depending on the design i decide on. Ideas are welcome!
I'm not gonna change the mounting setup or remove any brackets, as I want to be able to mount the stock seat and put it back to its original setup without welding and stuff.
 

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Build up the foam with carpet padding glued with spray high strength contact cement used for headliners. Shape with electric carving knife (NOT your wife's!). I'd cut that base with a cheap multi-tool. Remember that the lip on it serves the purposes of hiding the frame a little, giving attachment for the cover, and giving a certain shape illusion. Don't know if it will loose strength without the lip.
It's pretty surprising to me how you can change the appearance of a seat by changing the foam shape but keeping the stock pan. For instance, this GoldWing seat on a fiberglass replica of a stock pan:
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Thank you for the advise, i'll keep the strength in mind when i start modding the seat.

This is has been done since my last post:
Bought and fitted a new Delkevic megaphone exhaust (sounds great, but might have to pad the baffle a bit to make just a tad more discrete)
New K&N air filter fitted in the stock airbox.
Round head- and taillight, bullet style indicators and chrome mirrors fitted.
Found a replacement side cover for the melted one, both side covers and airbox covers has been painted to match the tank (or close enough).

Next up:
Bleeding and checking the brakes.
Stripping down and polishing the fork legs, both of them are quite tatty.
manufacture aluminum fenders front and rear

I've also ordered:
A set of hot cam shims. - there is a bit of ticking from the valves, my bet is the valves need adjusting.
A 6 Sigma Jet kit stage 1-3 - to compensate for the new exhaust and air filter, and maybe pull a bit more performance.
 

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Cool!. Valve clearances are usually a thing on these old bikes. They also had funky cam chain adjuster IIRC. Might not be a bad idea to get a manual one since you have to open it up a bit anyway.
 
sooo.... the clutch cable broke on my way down the driveway this morning, and it'll be at least a week before a new one arrives.
I couldn't find a new cable locally, so i had to order one from the UK, and ordered a manual cam chain tentioner while i was at it :)
 
So i've been a bit busy this summer, and haven't had time to do an update before now.

The brakes has been serviced, forks polished, new headlight mount, aluminum fenders and valves has been adjusted.
Unfortunately there still a slight ticking, but i'll try some cleaning fuel additive and see if it makes any difference.

I'me having a bit of issues adjusting the carbs to the new exhaust/air filter, I' gone up one size from 110 to 115 on the main jet, and tried a 40 instead of the default 37,5 on the pilot jet, but that was way off.
now i'm back with the default pilot jet, and it runs great above 1/4 quater throttle.
When i let go from full throttle and pull the clutch. It goes all the way down to 0 RPMS and then dies.
It idle's fine around 1000-1200rpms when i just let it come down slowly, if i tighten the idle screw any more it won't go down in RPMs when i loosen the throttle.

Anyone got any ideas?
i've tried adjusting the mixture screws and syncing the carbs. But it doesn't seem to make a difference.
Looking at the spark plugs they have a slightly white tint but other wise clean, so maybe a bit on the lean side.
 

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