Smoothing out worn Clutch Basket

2_DONE_THE_TON

2_DONE_THE_TON

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Hey guys!

I´m in the middle of searching for a faulty clutch on my XS 750 project (its a PIA, can´t find whats wrong with this thing).
When the bike is in 1st gear and I completely pull the clutch in it still rolls slightly forward,impossible to roll the bike backwards when fully clutched in,in 1 st gear.... :mad:

So here´s the question:
How do you guys smoothen out clutch baskets wears like in the pic below?

Even though the clutch friction pads look good, I will change them out for new OEM plates to rule out this problem.
Do you guys use some scotch brite on the steel plates before reassembly?
THe friction plates will be soaked in oil for a day before reassembly.

Thanks in advance!
 

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I've smoothen out clutch basket and clutch plate carrier of my cj 360 and xl 250 by grinding down all the sharp edges with a small file and they work fine now.

Kind regards.
 
That inner basket doesn't look worn enough to cause the problems you are describing. I'd suspect maybe the steel plates are warped.


Are you replacing the whole clutch or just the friction plates?
 
hillsy said:
That inner basket doesn't look worn enough to cause the problems you are describing. I'd suspect maybe the steel plates are warped.


Are you replacing the whole clutch or just the friction plates?
Click to expand...

Thanks for chiming in!

I´m already pretty clueless on my problem.
Opened both sides of the engine in order to search for problems that could cause this malfunction.

Left (ignition side):
I cleaned, lubed and reassembled the clutch mechanism.
The problem was slighlty better after this.
The pushrod looks good and has tiny marks of wear.

Right (Clutch side):
All parts are there, no parts are missing.
Clutch plates look good, no blueing no warps.
Clutch disengages and engages when lever is pulled in.

I would replace new the clutch friction plates,the steel plates look good and not warped.
When I ride the bike, the bike doesnt "pull"(feels like a 20hp bike) like the clutch is not fully engaging and disengaging, even when the motor is warmed.
 

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If your friction plates are worn or glazed badly they will cause the slip you describe. also worn or weak springs.
 
Maritime said:
If your friction plates are worn or glazed badly they will cause the slip you describe. also worn or weak springs.
Click to expand...

I have a full set of friction plates on my desk I will soak them in oil and replace them.
I will also measure the springs, which seem not to be OEM...am I right that one only measures the height (length)of the springs with a sliding scale?

The steel plates looked good, so I´l probably run them, read stuff about using scotch brite before reassembly...would you recommend this?

thanks!
 
I think so on the measure and if they are shorter than the minimum swap them, springs are usually cheap as chips. a little scotch bright on both sides of the steel disks won't hurt and should help the new plates bed in better. Careful torquing the bolts and springs back in they usually don't have a very high torque spec and can be snapped easy.
 
Maritime said:
I think so on the measure and if they are shorter than the minimum swap them, springs are usually cheap as chips. a little scotch bright on both sides of the steel disks won't hurt and should help the new plates bed in better. Careful torquing the bolts and springs back in they usually don't have a very high torque spec and can be snapped easy.
Click to expand...

Alright!
Just looked in my parts shelf and the PO gave me some fresh springs still in their packaging.Looks like they are "enforced" ones...is this a good idea or should I stick to OEM style springs?

How would you go about smoothing out the clutch basket wears?
 
I'd use the new springs, I put a heavier set on my CX and it made things better. As for the grooves I'm not sure. I know that very small ones can be filed out but if you remove too much material the tolerance between the teeth and the groove can get to big and cause the disk teeth to slam the basket grooves and get damaged even quicker. What that level or amount of material is I can't say.
 
Alright man!Gonna use the new springs, but I def gonna measure the "old" springs how worn they are.
As for the clutch basket wear, I think I´m gonna use a 400 grit paper and gently "rub" the wear marks out.

As for the clutch problem:
Even when I screw the adjustment screw really far in, the clutch problem won´t dissapear...
 
I wish I could be more help but my Honda Clutches are different from the one on your triple. Is there a trouble shooting section in the manual for the clutch?
 
Lets put it that way: The manual is 10per cent, what is actually going on down there.Many moving parts, shims etc....
I´ll let you know the result when I get back on the bike!

thx!
 
If there are grooves in the outer basket this can affect the plate movement - the inner hub not so much. File the groves out of the outer basket fingers if there are any there.


How do you know your steel plates are not distorted? Have you measure them? It's hard to tell just by "looking". Just because they are not blue doesn't mean they are straight.


There is a very limited movement of the pressure plate between engaging and disengaging the clutch - the slightest warpage of the steel plates can make the clutch drag.
 
Thanks Hillsy for your support!
How does one measure the steel plates?

Ok then I will focus on the fingers,I guess this is good,since I'm not to keen on removing the inner hub from the engine (needs a special 32 long nut,which is somehow hard to get...

I already dissasembled the clutch side two times looking for a solution and checked the plates moving when I pulled the clutch in and there was movement...looks like it was not enough...is there like a factory 'movement scale' on how much the whole assembly should expand?

Sent from my SM-A310F using DO THE TON mobile app
 
Steels are measured with a vernier caliper in multiple spots, to see if they are within spec. Then you put them on some VERY flat surface (do I remember that you have some marble plates underneath= the windows otherwise use a mirror and check, whether you can see a gap or put some fine (1000 grit) sand paper onto the mirror and run the steels over it in an 8-motion. The emery should mark them evenly, if so they are flat, if not continue until everything has been touched by the sandpaper. Repeat on the other side.

Regarding the clutch basket, it's looking good. For the clutch NOT to work, the grooves would have to be deep enough to have the actual friction plates stick to the basket and hang. IIRC the damage was hardly felt with my fingernail, so I'd put that one down to be purely cosmetical.
 
Yes I think so too and we also tried moving the clutch with the lever and all the plates were moving nicely.
I have to check whether the steel sliding piece on which the steeö ball and rod pushes onto can move freely.maybe there is an imperfection on which this steel bit 'hangs onto'.

Sent from my SM-A310F using DO THE TON mobile app
 
I found this video I made when I dissassembled the clutch the first time.i dont know if there is meant to be a "gap" between the clutch pressure plate and the clip that is mounted on the pivot.
You can see it best in the end of the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nI1d6FMYn-k
 
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