1973 XL175 Vitamin C Hell Ride

I think I've narrowed it down a bit. When checking connections with the meter, I got 2v on one side of my on/off switch. No ignition switch, just a toggle. If nothing else, I think I at least found the problem circuit.


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deviant said:
I think I've narrowed it down a bit. When checking connections with the meter, I got 2v on one side of my on/off switch. No ignition switch, just a toggle. If nothing else, I think I at least found the problem circuit.


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you should pull off the flywheel sometime and have some fun ;D
without lights you can easily ride a full hour on bat
 
in fact you can just use an automotive coil, 12v bat and a ballast resitor to help the points live
thats the way i did it on the 250
 
I had one of those orange XL-175s, bought it brand new. That was the first model year of that bike, it replaced the SL-175 of 1972 which my dad bought brand new and I still have to this day. I put Powroll 200cc kits in both of them. I ended up stripping the lights off the XL, ported, polished the head ran a supertrapp muffler and raced it cross country. Couldn't keep up with the two strokes of the day, but it made a good hill climber. Those single cylinder bikes had issues with camshaft/head bearings. Mine eventually scored, I disassembled the bike and transported it in a parts box for probably 21 years. My wife gave it away in 91 when we moved from Ft Worth to Atlanta. I bought a 74 off craigslist about five years ago, rode that thing for a couple of years. Was a great bike.

The engine is basically 1/2 of a 350, pistons are swappable. If it was me, I would buy one of the high compression pistons used for 350 racing and stick it in there...

Side cases are magnesium like the XL-250.

You don't need a CB-350 stator to run 12v, just swap the regulator. It's the regulator that determines the voltage, not the stator/magnet. More windings/flux equates to more power out of the alternator which varies as a function of rpm. The regulator shorts it to ground to control the voltage.
 
squared said:
I had one of those orange XL-175s, bought it brand new. That was the first model year of that bike, it replaced the SL-175 of 1972 which my dad bought brand new and I still have to this day. I put Powroll 200cc kits in both of them. I ended up stripping the lights off the XL, ported, polished the head ran a supertrapp muffler and raced it cross country. Couldn't keep up with the two strokes of the day, but it made a good hill climber. Those single cylinder bikes had issues with camshaft/head bearings. Mine eventually scored, I disassembled the bike and transported it in a parts box for probably 21 years. My wife gave it away in 91 when we moved from Ft Worth to Atlanta. I bought a 74 off craigslist about five years ago, rode that thing for a couple of years. Was a great bike.

The engine is basically 1/2 of a 350, pistons are swappable. If it was me, I would buy one of the high compression pistons used for 350 racing and stick it in there...
This is great info! Thank you. I actually just took it off the road for that very issue- cam shaft/head bearings. Good to know it's not necessarily dead weight. I have a XL250 motor I was considering swapping out, but I prefer to run that motor in another bike.
 
Powroll used to offer head mod and needle bearings for the camshaft. You might try megacycle cams, they still do that type of work for old hondas. I don't see the XL-175 listed in their catalog, but it's similar to what they do. Boretech might be a good place to buy pistons, etc.
 
deviant said:
This is great info! Thank you. I actually just took it off the road for that very issue- cam shaft/head bearings. Good to know it's not necessarily dead weight. I have a XL250 motor I was considering swapping out, but I prefer to run that motor in another bike.

That XL250 engine swap might be nice,I wonder if an XL185/200 might work? The XL200R 2-valve came stock w/ 12vts pushing 196 wts. in 83-84'
 
squared said:
.

You don't need a CB-350 stator to run 12v, just swap the regulator. It's the regulator that determines the voltage, not the stator/magnet. More windings/flux equates to more power out of the alternator which varies as a function of rpm. The regulator shorts it to ground to control the voltage.



Cool, can this work for a CB100 too, just installing a regulator?
 
squared said:
You don't need a CB-350 stator to run 12v, just swap the regulator. It's the regulator that determines the voltage, not the stator/magnet. More windings/flux equates to more power out of the alternator which varies as a function of rpm. The regulator shorts it to ground to control the voltage.
I was taught this a while ago, but then made aware of the stator swap so I tried it out. Power seemed to ground to the casing post swap, so I've gone back to the stock stator and I'm now using a 12v regulator.
 
Not sure, I think the 185/200 has the same case/frame mounts (as well as the 100/125). I doubt the 250 will fit, I bought a crankshaft for one thinking I could graft it into the XL I had a few years ago and it's a lot bigger. I was also looking at the Chinese clone engines at that time as well, I think it fits.
 
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