1972 Honda CB 350 project # 1

Damn I would put my money on that then. So when I correct the rotation, both adjustment screws should be easy to set?

Joey
 
Aircoolin said:
Damn I would put my money on that then. So when I correct the rotation, both adjustment screws should be easy to set?

Joey

yes both should be easy and the hash mark on the rocker shaft should be in the correct position when adjusting and the crank will probably not want to stay on LT
the orientation of the lobes on the other cylinder want to rotate the engine past the LT mark
 
Wow, I know for a fact that's what I did then! One time when I lined up the LT it wouldn't stay because the engine wanted to rotate, I decided to rotate it back around and it stayed on the LT mark the second time.

I wish I would've just asked this when I was first getting frustrated lol :-\

Thanks for your help man, will report back when I get another chance to work on it.

Joey
 
when i say hash marks on the rocker shaft it is a little TINY mark at the screwdriver slot, 90 degrees to the screwdriver slot
this tiny mark needs to be in a certain position range
think a clock face
exhaust between 6 and 9
intake between 6 and 3
 
xb33bsa said:
when i say hash marks on the rocker shaft it is a little TINY mark at the screwdriver slot, 90 degrees to the screwdriver slot
this tiny mark needs to be in a certain position range
think a clock face
exhaust between 6 and 9
intake between 6 and 3

So the rocker shaft is actually the screw that I'm adjusting, correct?

And I follow you on the position of the range you are talking about.
 
Here's what's left on my list from before that I still need to get done;
Install new drums front and rear
Install all new cables, brake, throttle, clutch
Install new clutch
Tuck wiring away make it nice and neat
Do something with the battery box & neaten it up
Change or paint header?
Figure out where to mount ignition?

I'm off today and just got back from a nice vacation from sanibel island with my lady.
I'm gunna see what I can get done today, might try to get the valves adjusted right and fire it up?

Joey
 
How she looked at the beginning of the day



Adjusted valves and points gap.



Fender mock-up



Sorry for the finger, lowered the battery tray still using the stock bolts and threads on the bike.



How she looked at the end of the day

 
I've been tinkering with the thought, so I finally pulled the trigger on these. Hope it was with the investment.

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Got the cables hooked up to the carbs tonight, it was pretty interesting to figure out. I was thinking "where the f*** is the linkage for the side of the carb" lol.

All about learning though so it was fun!

Hopefully in a couple days I'll have them all hooked up and try to fire the bike up again.

Joey
 
Little update, got the mikunis on and the throttle cable working like a champ. They don't really make the universal 2 into 1 cable very well so I modified it to work a little better.

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And here's a little photo shoot. I tried to fire her up to get her out to the street but it just won't fire. I think I put one of the exhaust flanges on incorrectly cause a major vacuum problem..

80946-160414145918.jpeg


80946-160414145839.jpeg


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Thanks for looking,

Joey
 
It just won't completely fire up. When I kick it, it sounds like it wants to fire but won't. It's getting spark, and should be getting fuel since I have the new carbs on but I will have to check to be sure...

Joey


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first you should bench synch the carbs for an even idle screw opening of the slides..
use a 1/16 drill bit shank or something similar to get the height of the slides even when the throttle is closed
then you need to get the slides in synch in relation to the pull of the individual cables
you can use the popsidcle stick method, easiest with the carbs off and looking in using the stick as a guage through the spigot end

set idle mixrure screws at 1-1/2 turns
then when using the vm enricheners do not yank the throttle
the vm enrichener will not do much at all unless the slides are in an idle speed condition
the vm enrichener usually causes a high idle while engaged
if it dies when enrichener is disengaged then set each idle speed crew 1/2 turn more try again repeat as needed untill you get an idle
of course it is possible the initial idle speed adjustent at 1/16 is too much
 
So you're thinking carbs right of the bat?

I'm pretty sure the slides inside the carbs are even. They snap back perfectly after I got the cable to work correctly.

I have not messed with the idle screws yet, I will check to see where they are set.


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